Electric cord has melted. Can the cord be replaced? Can I just black tape the cord?

Remove the cover by removing the screws on the back of the microwave and slide the cover to the rear. The black and white wires will unplug and the green wire goes under a screw. Use a pair of pliers to compress the strain relief to remove the cord from the microwave case.

Yes i found that a application of several layers of black electric tape over the little buzzer hole does wonders , i got mine down to the sound a 80's vintage digital watch makes just by doing this

HELLO.

take on these steps to solve the problem.

Check if there is electric power on wall outlet.

If the microwave plug has fuse,check if it has not burnt.if these are okay there is need to take the last step.

things needed
1.Screwdriver
2.Ohmmeter
3.New fuse

1. Unplug the microwave from the electrical outlet to prevent electrocution. Place the microwave in a well-lit area to be able to locate the fuse.

2. Use a screwdriver to remove the outer cabinet of the microwave, and follow the power cord to the fuse. The fuse is located 2 to 3 inches within the microwave and is attached to the power board.

3. Observe the fuse to determine if it is blown. Blown glass fuses will produce burn marks on nearby surfaces, or the internal fuse wire will be black and melted, while ceramic fuses show no outward appearance of being blown.

4. Determine if a ceramic fuse is blown by testing it with an ohmmeter. If the ohmmeter reads zero ohms, your fuse is not blown. Other readings on the ohmmeter show that your fuse is blown.
5. Replace the blown fuse by popping it out of its holder, and snapping a new fuse in its place. Tighten the fuse clips by squeezing them together with your fingers.

6. Replace the outer cabinet of the microwave, and plug the microwave back into the electrical outlet. Test the microwave to see if it's working properly.

Thanks.

The beat method for capping the vent is with aluminum HVAC tape available at any hardware store. You are basically making it rodent proofe.Csisscross the tape and cut a few inches longer so you can tape around the outside with at least one wrap of tape, use a store card to go over tape to remove bubbles and to give it a good seal. You will also have to cap off box where the power cord connects if its all electric. If it is gas you can just close the valve, and cap it with cap availble at same hardware store and use pipe dope or nylon tape (not both). A gas unit just unplugs from a receptical. You may test your work with a 50/50 dishsoap to water mixture in a spray bottle.
Good luck,
mark

Take a look at the picture on this web link of the 3 power cords.
(scroll down just a little)

http://www.toastercentral.com/cords.htm

The pin spacing sizes are 1/2", 11/16", and 1 & 1/16ths inch.

Then you can go to this page:

http://electrical.hardwarestore.com/12-33-appliance-replacement-cords.aspx

scrolling down the same distance and look at the details of each cord.

Most large hardware stores have these cords if you know the Woods Industries number. Usually 0288, 0290, 0291, 0293 There are a few others but they are all in the same range from 0288 - 0293 (WOODS INDUSTRIES)

If you can not find it at a hardware any appliance parts center will also have them. Just remember the WOODS INDUSTRIES numbers.

Kelly

Are you trying to connect your range to a 3-wire source, using a 4-wire cord? I'm a little confused on your symptoms. Normally you have a 2 HOT leads and a NEUTRAL/GROUND (3-wire) in older homes. In newer homes you have 2 HOT leads, a separate NEUTRAL and a separate GROUND (4-wire).

The following link explains the difference between the two configurations and how they should be correctly wired:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord

New construction homes built after the year 2000 REQUIRE the use of a 4-wire plug and are usually readily wired at the receptacle to accommodate. If your existing receptacle already has a 3-wire configuration you do not need to re-wire it, however. The easiest solution would be to purchase a 3-wire power cord that matches the receptacle you have.

Read through the link provided and post back and let me know if you have any questions. I hope this helps you solve your problem.

This heat could have come from excess current draw due to a failing part, such as the magnetron, or an improper voltage level at the outlet. It should measure 105-125VAC.

A loose connection can also result in heat and melting.

I would recommend replacing the section of wire that's melted. You need to make a good solid connection with proper wire nuts and solid crimped connectors.

If you think the TCO may have been stressed, it should be replaced, too.

I would also check the fuse holder by seeing if you can twirl the fuse with your bare fingers while it's in the holder. If so, then it is too loose and the holder must be replaced.

You cannot just squeeze it tighter with pliers, because metal fatigue will make it go loose again, possibly resulting in a melted fuse.

Lastly, I would replace the primary interlock (top door switch). See http://www.microwavedisplay.com/doorsw.txt.

Then make sure that no one opens the door while the oven is cooking unless it is specifically called for in the cooking cycle. Opening the door while it is cooking leads to premature switch failure and heat / melting of the switches connectors and wiring.

You can find the full service manual online here.

Yours may have the revised circuit. You can see the "mini-manual" for that version here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, & testing.



At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

You can find links to helpful exploded view diagrams and part ordering help here.

I'd recommend that your bookmark this link to your favorites.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

FUSEHOLDERS MELT ON MICROWAVES ALL THE TIME its the most common thing that makes the microwave die 99.9% of the time its nothing , something to do with the metal that is usedin the fuseholder , and the fuse .with a long run of the oven the fuse gets hot and the fuse melts inside . sometimes you can get away with a little contact cleaner on the holder and a new fuse . other times you will need a new fuseholder too. good luck

You can buy stainless steel tape from many hardware stores, just make sure that you put the tape on the outside (be very careful when opening the oven up). Put enough layers on to match the thickness of the metal originally - unfortunately the tape tends not to stay on for that long, so is potentially a dangerous option the best thing to do would be take it to a microwave repair shop - they will have metal sheet available of the appropriate type and should be able to patch it for you - if you get really lucky they might have the same model that has an undamaged chassis but destroyed electrical workings - is worth a try. Good luck Hope this helps - please post again if you need more info :)