Roper dryer dryer just stopped working. timer is clicking. door switch is good. maybe the thermal fuse?

There are normally three devices controlling heat overload, but I don't see them in parts lists. Thermostat, high limit cut out and thermal fuse. The thermal fuse doesn't reset, it basically blows and cuts power.

If it is the timer, they are over $200 so call for service so they take the risk on it being right. Then you get the warranty on parts and labour.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Roper+RED4640YQ1+parts

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Thermal fuse

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Normally if the dryer does not work at all then you will have to check the thermal fuse it is a white plastic thermal fuse to ensure it has continuity to ensure it is good ill post a pict of it below
It is located on the blower housing and cannot be reset. The most common cause for overheating is a vent tube clogged with lint, a birds nest or other debris....
make sure it's good.
If it's good and the push to start switch is also good, then that means you have a faulty door switch or a bad timer. Check the door switch and see if it still clicks. If it still clicks then it's good, and if not then replace it. Otherwise you'll need to replace the timer.

A lot of times the small white fuse will melt and kill the door switch circuit on these.


I removed a bunch of junk from this one's blower housing/filter chute:


So if your door switch is fine check the thermal limit:


Ya might want to give that Roper dryer a good going over. I did a complete overhaul of a Roper dryer and took some photo's for DIY folks: Roper dryer tuneup


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You need to check your door switch and thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is located behind the back panel at about 6 oclock. If the thermal fuse is bad, you need to make sure the vent is clean.

No, reset button on these. It may be the lid switch or the thermal fuse. This is what I find most of the time. Check out the diagram on apwagner.com and you'll see the parts locations. Oh, if it's not the thermal fuse of the lid switch it may be the timer. I've seen this a couple of times.

replace the timer

could be the motor start switch.

go back to timer ck continuity with timer in any run postion from black to blue wire (i think..better ck wiring diagram under console..you're looking for the contacts in timer to make that control motor)

suspect coils on gas valve if ignitor glows timer is working