Question about Washing Machines
I have a Whirlpool top load washing machine sometimes does not move to the next cycle..i have to hold the nob out to allow it to change cycles or change through them by stopping and turning to next one...i can hear the timer and it trying to cycle... today i saw smoke so i unplugged the unit and opened up the top and my capacitor was smoking and dripping liquid i know that i have too replace it but i would like to know why it burned out...It is old and now a fire hazard... i just want to know what happened so it does not happen when i buy a new one....
thank you for taking the time to read this message..
The guy thinking about buying a wash board and ringer...
Travioso, there was two service flashes out on this model concerning the seal and bearing which means they had an issue with this washer. The howling noise you are hearing is the bearing and will need the new designed triple seal and bearing kit. This should be covered under your warranty, I believe it is 5 years. The numbers for the service flashes are TDL-0048A-B. Call Maytag and inquire about these service flashes, these should be covered. Catriver.
Posted on Jul 25, 2006
Hi It appears that- You have a clogged water pump inlet filter. Normally located at the bottom of the machine there should be a 1"-2" disk that you need to rotate half turn to release. Be aware that a large quantity of water is likely to drain when you open it. Good luck
Posted on Sep 07, 2007
SOURCE: Washer leaks during wash cycle
Taking a top loader apart is simple if you follow these steps:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
The drain pump is the most common cause of leaks. It will be located in the front of the washer. Check the drain hoses and clamps as well. If the pump is leaking, it is NOT serviceable and cannot be repaired. It must be replaced.
Check the wash tub to ensure there are no cracks causing the leak.
To reinstall the outer case and components, follow these steps:
1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall operator console.
This is not a difficult repair, but if you have questions, please let me know.
Posted on Apr 27, 2009
Thanks for using FixYa. The smell might be due to burning of lid switch. If the washer isn't spinning then it might be dueto a Lid switch or due to a bad motor coupler. You can check for the lid switch& replace it--
First unplug the washing machine. Then remove the two screws that hold the top consolein place; these are located in back of the main console (where the dials are).Once removed, the entire console swivels back, exposing the wiresunderneath.
After this unplug the wiring harness that is connected to the washing machinetop flat surface. Now remove the two s-shaped brackets with a screwdriver byprying underneath. This will allow you to remove the main sheet metal framearound the washing machine. The lid switch assembly is located under the topconsole. Now, remove it and replace with the new assembly and put it backtogether.
Please look this schematicfor lid switch location(part # 50)--
You can buy the lid switch from this link--
Frigidaire FWS833AS1 Lid switch/assembly
Please do rate the solution and revert for further assistance.
Posted on Oct 16, 2009
Open lid as you would load clothes and hold the inner drum with all the holes in it. Give it a manual turn left, then right. If it spins in both ways the main bearing is gone. This is not a DIY because the new bearing has to be pressed on at a machine shop, or an appliance repair shop.
Posted on Dec 29, 2009
you have a faulty brake motor. It pulls in and releases the brake. When pulled right it it contacts a switch which lets the other actions like washing and spinning to occur. $77 to $86 off ebay or appliance stores. turn off ac. remove back off machine. reach around left side of frame at the bottom of the tub and push the brake forward manually and let the little plastic retainer turn sideways and release the wire rope retainer that comes out of the brake motor. remove the power cable to the brake motor by pulling out the connector on the right side under the tub. remove the two 8mm screws retaining the brake motor and remove the brake motor. reverse procedure with new item.
enjoy uninterrupted washes!
Posted on Jun 21, 2010
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