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tensioner pulleys run on the back of the v belts
most tillers move forward by the action of the tillers bur occasionally they can be belt driven
that may be the spare pulley if you have a pulley on the axle
otherwise run the belts direct to the tillers with the tensioner pulleys running on the back
would need to know make , model and year to get a diagram of the belts
This is one hell of a job so if you aint got patience get someone who has to do it. Here goes;
Get her up on the main stand or jack her up. Ensure the weight is carried on the front wheel otherwise get a jack to raise/support the rear.
Loosen rear wheel adjusters and push wheel assembly as far forward as it will go.
Lift old belt from the top of rear pulley and as you ease the belt towards you rotate the wheel/pully towards the rear this will allow the belt to be eased off the pulley. MIND YOUR FINGERS
Now remove the rear wheel assembly completely, not forgetting to disconnect the torque arm and brake cable / rod if your bike has drum brakes.
Remove the drive pulley cover and ease the belt off.
Now the worst bit, the swing arm has to come off to allow the belt to go around it.
Disconnect shocks from swing arm (lower mounts only will be ok)
Remove swing arm.
Install new belt on drive pulley, replace swing arm ensuring the belt goes around it and reassemble all other parts.
Making sure all nuts / bolts are torqued to makers specs.
When the rear wheel is back in the belt can be refitted to rear pulley using the same method as removal it will probably be harder being new but it will go.
Finally adjust the belt tension to makers spec and ensure wheel runs true. That's it now you can have a cup of tea you've earned it
. GOOD LUCK
Hi anonymous, first you need to check rear wheel alignment in the swing arm either from the center of the swing arm pivot shaft to the center of the rear wheel axle bolt (most accurate method) measurement should exactly the same on both sides. Or you can use the axle adjuster marks stamped on the swing arm where the axle lives. next you need to get the rear wheel off the ground and rotate it in the direaction of forward movement and see where it tracks in the pully. If it tracks to one side and rubs against the pulley side walls then you can adjust the pulley location by adding or subtracting pully to hub spacers so it tracks in the middle or away from any wall. If it is mechanically impossible to achieve this desired outcome you may slightly adjust rear wheel to achieve desired results. If belt still squeeks you can try deglazing the inside of the pulley wall with scotch guard pad some simular mildly abrasive object and rub some dielectric grease on the side of the belt. All other remedies are less effective and only last for a day or two but you are surely welcome to try your own brew. Finally there is a question of proper belt tension, a belt to tight will squeek more than a loose one. For proper belt adjustment enjoy the video. Good luck Motorcycle Repair Inspecting Adjusting the Final Drive Belt on 2008 Harley...
I have the Craftsman model 113 80" saw and ran into the same type of problem here's what I did.
-Take off motor,loosen set screw on pulley and push pully as far as it will go towards motor,The pulley has a internal shoulder that will position the pulley the correct distance on the motor shaft.
- put motor back on saw (This next part is VERY important) the motor has 4 studs,3 of them have sleeves,these sleeves make it so that when they are tightened down the motor can stilll move(do not over tighten ). The forth stud is the one with the wing nut adjustment,the wing nut is how you adjust the tension.once you have your tension set you tighten the bolt on this stud and it holds the motor in place.
-Now with the motor in place ( no belt on yet) lay a flat ruler from the drive pulley to the pulley on the bottom wheel. most likely this pully will need to be adjusted in or out. These pulleys must line up perfectly with each other and over time one or the other has moved.
Take motor back off and put on belt. replace motor.
Note** you cannot eyeball the two pulleys a flat square or ruller must be used.
Since I aligned mine I have had zero problems and it runs alot smoother.
It sounds like you have a worn or streched belt making the sqeeling noise. Whenever you turn on a
device in the car that draws a fair amount of voltage
ie. a/c or headlights it will cause increased drag on
the alternator and if you have a loose/worn or glazed
belt, it can slip around the pully making the squeel.
To adjust the alt-a/c belt loosen the mounting bolts
on the tensioner, then use the adjuster bolt behind
the tensioner pully to loosen and tighten the belt.
Be sure to check the belt for cracks bald spots etc.
While the belt is loose spin the pullys to make sure
they all spin freely. Also I would replace the belt just
to be sure. Hope this helps
Most gas dryers have a tensioner on the drive belt under the drum a metal bar with a teflon pully that is spring loaded to tension the belt. Try spining the drum by hand if it spins freely the belt may have come off the tensioner or it may be streched. If it doesn't turn the drum rollers or bushing may be bad. Without a make and moddel # it's hard to say
Hope this helps
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if you have gotten that far your good
now try to look at the motor it sounds like your belt might be a lil off track on the mortor shaft
there is a adjustment srew on the top left of the motro its hidden under things but its there
you can looses this and swing the motor
make sure you have it lined up on the motor shaft and it should stay aligned on the pully
The deck drive belt makes an L shape looping to the the outside deck pulley that has 2 pulleys. The deck drive belt rides on the top set. X = pulley engine x
l l -
l l x x = outside deck pulley
back deck pulley =x
motor to idle to outside
motor to tension to outside back side of belt goes around idler