I have just purchased a Motor home fitted with a Rinnai REU-56ES,I have asked 2 egineers to have a look at it,and it has beaten them both.It appears to have 2 Black wires that are disconected from the Micro Switch on the right,looking face on.But one engineer said they were for an auxillary fan and nothing to do with my problem.So, I have 3 questions for you...1) Is there anyone local to me in the Romford Area who could fix it? 2) Can I still buy a new one,and just keep the current machine for spares?If so,Can you supply it and how much?3)If the model has since been up dated,is the new model the same size?And will it fit to the existing flue? I think thats more than 3 questions but Im now desperate. Thankyou in anticipation ****.
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Re: REU-56ES Wont Fire Up I have
On the fixya home page there is a column called repair service.just enter your proper zip code and the list of engineers of this product near to you will be shown with a proper profile and contact numbers.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
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Rinnai America Corp.Indicates condensing water heater models. ... Rinnai Water Heater Service Manual. 2 ..... Digital manometer or U tube type manometer with 14 inch water column (W.C.) scale, a hose and two .... will flash on the display of the remote controller.
The hot side of the faucet is most likely plugged with something that came up thru the water system. The average thankless waterheater requires at least 1/2 to 3/4 gpm flow rate for the unit to sense flow and turn on. If there is not enough flow it will not fire and heat the water. Not sure about this particular unit but a few require at least one full gallon per minute flow. So chances are that if you fix the faucet, you fix the hot water issue at the same time
If it hasn't been in use for a year or so there could be a couple problems. Sometimes the gas dissipates from the line after an extended period of inactivity. You may need to try several times to light the pilot or the line may need to be purged. Also, if there's gas to the appliance and the pilot will light but not stay on the thermocouple is bad and should be replaced.
Ask the plumber who did the mods. to come a check that he hasn't crossed a hot/cold pipe. Really sounds like he has, this would cause hot water to mix with cold. Is the water hotter further away from where he did his work? This would be a clue. Easy way to check is to turn off the water to the hot water system, should be a valve on the middle pipe going in to the heater. This should turn off all water to all your hot taps. If you still have water at any hot tap or shower then the pipes have been crossed.
In these water heaters there is a part called a "flame sensor", if you can read the wiring diagram/schematic spend some time trying to find where it is at; it will be located directly in the burner compartment. It senses that the gas is lit and there is flame, if it does not then it will shut the gas off almost within 3 seconds.
Turn off the power to the unit completely and take the flame sensor out and clean it with a 000 steel wool pad. These flame sensors develop carbon from the gas and then stop reading properly. You can test the measurement if you had an electrical meter (uA is how it would be listed on your meter- most basic meters have this function).
Let me know if this works, if not I have another solution you could try (I'm pretty sure this will do the trick though)
This is an error code 12, not 12 degrees. You have a short on your low voltage side by the sounds of it.. First disconnect the controllers inside the heater. Turn of the power first, 2 screws top and bottom to take the frnot panel off. Follow the low voltage wires (not the power point ones) to the PCB on the ride side and disconnect them both. Panel back on, power on and try the heater again. If this fixes it you have a short circuit in the controller or the wires leading to it. If not the most likely short circuit is on the thermal fuse which loops around the heat exchanger. This will need an expert, Perth has plenty north and south of the river. Give Rinnai a ring first, they have some good staff in Perth who might help.
I left Rinnai only about a year ago at a levle of State Service Manager. I had been asking for service manual for for many, many months. Basically as far as I am aware there is not a service manual for the WG. If you google Rinnai Infinity 26 manual you can get a PDF from the Rinnai NZ sales site but his dates baack to 2003. Unfortunately there are major changes to some of the components but it might be better than nothing. Just don't use part numbers, and you might find bits to check that now have voltage and resistance differences. Send a message to Rinnai complaining, I encouraged people to do so even when I worked for them!
thats because the rinnai does not have a set up for a circulating pump it would make the unit run all the time,, they are not designed to work that way,, you will have to just wait for the hot water to get to the faucet just like before,,don't let any one tell you there is a way once the water flows it turn on the tankless so it would never shut off, you could get on that goes on a timer on say the farthest fauset away from the unit and set the timer to come on like 2 min before you are ready to use the water in that bathroom in the morning or at night other then that there is nothing else you can do