When i use the drill it smokes real bad where the batt. connects
I was putting up a shelf, trying to get a stubborn screw in the wall and the hammer drill XRP started to smoke when i set it down. Now everytime i push the lever (even just to open up the end to put the bit in)it starts to smoke. What broke, can i fix it? and where do i get the parts from?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: when i use the drill it smokes real bad where the...
You have a short in your drill motor. I would not recommend using it as it is possible for the battery to explode.
DeWalt is probably the best made drill motor. I would look to sending it back to the factory for repairs. Run the internet for DeWalt and get a phone # to call them. You never know, this may be a problem the factory may fix for free.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Your drill will drill a hole at any speed, the drill bit needs to be sharp to drill the mateirial.The type of wall material is important.Drywall is soft but a masonry bit should be used.A masonry bit has a flat bar accross the point and slower speeds are best.Wood walls / studs you need wood bits that are sharper and medium to high speeds are used.Concrete or Block walls again require Masonry bits.If very hard concrete as in foundation walls or filled block the use of a Hammer drill will work much faster.Good Luck
Get a large 90-degree allen wrench. It's best to use the largest allen key the drill can accommodate, at least 3/8" to 1/2". Put the short end of the allen key in the chuck and, with the long end of the allen key pointing straight up, completely tighten the chuck.
Firmly holding the drill on the edge of a table, you're going to have to hit that allen wrench with a hammer, hard. Use the flat side of a hammer to hit the allen wrench so that the blow will spin the chuck counter-clockwise. Sometimes it can take a real hard swing, so swinging through smoothly helps.
It really depends on the model. Here is a general description of how to remove most regular keyed and keyless chucks from corded and cordless drills:
Some chucks have a Left Handed screw that secures them to the spindle so they do not come loose. You can look into the chuck with a flashlight and see if there is a chuck screw. (It may be a torx head, flat head, or philips head) You will need to remove this screw first before doing anything else. Sometimes there is loc-tite applied to the screw so it may be stubborn and sometimes you will strip the screw head. Remeber that the old saying lefty-loosey, righty-tighty does not apply here. Left is actually tightening a left hand thread, so you want to turn it right to loosen. I know, it will feel weird but thats the way to loosen it. You may have to apply some heat to the screw in order to get that loc-tite to break. A pencil torch works great. If you strip the head out you will have to use a drill press and drill the screw head off.
After removing the screw you can remove the chuck.
To remove the chuck, the easiest way is to use a hex socket bit and an impact wrench. Put the hex bit in the chuck, and depending on the condition of the jaws, tighten the jaws as much as possible to the hex bit. Put the impact in reverse and bump it until the chuck is loosened. If you do not have access to an impact wrench you will need to put a hex key with a long arm into the chuck and tighten it then place the drill on the edge of your bench and give it a good whack with a 3lb hammer. It may not come off immediately so you may have to reset and do this a couple of times. Not the most effective way to remove a chuck, especially if one of the jaws is missing, but that is what most manufacturers tell you to do. I myself cut the collar off with a die grinder and then use a pipe wrench on the body of the chuck applying constant pressure while heating the chuck body with a torch. Works every time. Heat is our friend on stubborn chucks. Good luck, any questions please post.
look inside the chuck for a screw. it will be a left handed screw.once you get the screw out put the chuck in a vice . you will need to squeeze it very tight. then put the drill in reverse and pull the trigger.if i wont come off you will need to hit the chuck with a hammer while you are holding the trigger.
Your battery could say its good by just testing voltage,but when a load is put on it , its a different story. My dewaltbatt. did the same thing I opened up the batt. case and there was 12 "C" sized batteries inside linked together with little metal strips. I bought 12 rechargeable "C" batts. and carefully drilled where the metal strips are soldered, changed out batt. and re solder. It's been over a year now and still drilling . Also you should do this one batt. at a time so you don't put one in the wrong order .
I just changed the chuck on my 18 volt xrp half inch hammer drill,yes first you must remove the torx screw with #15 torx bit,note this is a left handed thread screw,knowing the bad chuck was bad I added some heat from a propane torch to the chuck then making sure it was in 1st gear i took some vise grips and the chuck is screwed on with normal right handed threads,it broke loose (was stubborn but needs a lot of torque )ahhhhhh wat a pain.
After removing the screw and inserting the allen wrench shift the drill to the LOW position and turn the clutch to the drill only position. Use an allen wrench about the size of the chuck capacity so that it will not flex when hitting it with a mallet. Sometimes they are stubborn because of the torque but this should work. Put the allen wrench at about a 30deg angle and hit the wrench. I support the chuck on a workbench or a block of wood will do fine. The chuck has standard threads.