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check that load with an ohm meter. a 1 ohm load is very low and just the wires would increase the load. also as speakers age they can go lower on the actual ohm being used so even if the circuit would seem to add up to one ohm it may be even lower. If the amp is going to protect mode the load is just to great and it doesn't want to burn itself up. a good meter will tell you the real ohm load at the amp. make sure you get a good connection between the meter and the load. don't overload the amp it is not safe. also some speakers are "power hungry" or less effective at using the amps watts of power
This means your amp is in "protect mode" this light indicates that your amp is having a short circuit or loose of power.
Check your cables, if they are secured & no exposed wire
And most important of all, check your voltage reading, it must be above 12v.
Loosing voltage in car audio is the number1 factor of heat/thermal problem & fire.
When an amp looses voltage, heat builds up inside it. Too much heat will make the amp be on "protect mode", excessive voltage drop will cause the amp's circuit board & other parts to be burned.
So, always watch your Voltage, either with a plug-in volt-meter or with a fuse holder & voltmeter.
Hope this helps.
flashing light could mean a few different things. 1- constant power may not be there. check with a test light or multimeter. should read around 12 volts. it would be a good idea to check all the power and ground leads. make sure u have a good ground. 2- bad sub. im assuming sub since its a monoblock amp. you can meter the subs. make sure the total ohm load is no less than 2 ohms. any lower the amp will go into protect mode. 3- bad amp. power supply may be bad. the newer pioneer amps are full of protection circuits. ive been a professional installer for a shop about 8 years and we sell pioneer. hope it helps.
The quickest way to determine if the problem is in the amp, the wiring, or the speaker(s) is to disconnect all speakers at the amp and re-power. If it stays in protection, check your ground. If you are grounded to a seat bolt or side panel on the vehicle, move it to the floor. Scuff the surface, check underneath for wiring or fuel lines! and drill a new ground. If it's still in protection, meter the voltage at the amp, if it's lower than 9.6v, that's your problem. If it's 11-13v and still in protection, the problem is internal and the amp needs service. If the amp leaves the protection mode when you disconnect speaker(s), check speaker wire for loose/touching wires or cuts in the shield. If that's ok, meter the speaker for resistance. If your meter reads 1..... the voice coil is burnt. If it reads .....1 the spider or coil is open or cut and again is bad. If you don't have a meter, any car audio shop can test your spkr(s) in just a few minutes. If you need further help, post a comment and I can help you more.
Disconnect all speakers, then turn the amp on. If there is no internal problem with the amp, it will go green. If it does go green, reconnect your speakers one at a time with the amp off then turn it on. when you connect the speaker that's causing the problem, the amp will go into protection. At this point, it's one of two things, a bad speaker wire (screw thru it or touching another terminal) or a bad speaker(burnt voice coil) to test that wire, disconnect the wire at the speaker and turn on the amp, if it's still green, all's well in the wire department. Meter the speaker with a multimeter on resistance, if it's blown the meter will read 1.... If you don't have a meter, connect the speaker that's having the problem to the other channel and test again, if it goes into protection, you've got your answer. Bad speaker. Hope this helps
Normally that means that you have a blown channel in the amp. Sometimes it can be triggered by a bad speaker. dis-connect your speakers and see if it still goes into protect. If it does not go into protect, yu amy only have a bad speaker. Get them checked to see if one is bad and then replace it with a good one. If the amp still goes into protect, you need to have your amp checked by a professional technician to have it repaired.
There is no way to tell just what is bad inside the amp or how much it will cost without having it checked properly. Sometimes these problems can be fixed for as little as $65 and other times it may cost over $200. It just depends on what is found to be the problem.
If I can be of any more help let me know. I have been repairing car and home audio equipment for nearly 18 years and can be very helpful.
Check the power transistors which usually have their cases screwed to the main heatsink/body of the amp case. They are usually large black cases with 3 legs soldered to the main board. If any of them are shorted out inside the amp will go in to protection mode. you can test them in the circuit but it's best if you can detatch at least 2 of the legs when testing. If you don't understand the meter readings for transistors you can test them with a continuity tester which will bleep if the transistor is shorted inside. First put the two probes from the meter on to the first 2 legs, if it bleeps it's probably shorted in side, if it does'nt that junction of the transistor is probably ok. Then try leg 2 and 3 and the same for leg 1 and 3. If all 3 legs bleep which ever way round you do it, the transistor will need replacing. Depending on the power of the amp there are 8 large transistors, 4 for each channel. Good luck with it.
Hi, by design the protect mode is activated if it senses a fault in the system which can either be:
speaker problem - check the speakers connected to the amp. also check that the speaker wires are not (scraped) rubbing to the car body. On the speakers themselves, using a continuity tester (better with a VOM) should indicate anywhere from 4 to 8 ohms on the terminals. In the absence of a continuity tester, a single AA battery will do to check if the cone/coil will move if the AA battery power is applied to the speaker terminal (this is not a sound practice but in the absence of a tester only). If the reading is either 0 ohms or infinity (no reading) or no movement (if using the battery method), then the speaker(s) need replacement.
Amplifier problem - this is identical to the problem and possible solution at http://www.fixya.com/support/t162539-amp
Good luck and hope this be of some help. Pls post again how things turn up.
Umm a ohm meter would help you here. Double check the wires from the sub to the amp...make sure its not shorting out.
Try starting the amp without the wires on the terminals...if the protection shows up then there is a short inside the unit and it will need to be replaced/repaired.