I have just bought and amplifier but the front switch is faulty. there are 4 wires going into the switch: brown and blue from the mains and red and black going to the transformer if i was to bypass the switch what colours would i need to join? i know that blue is neautral and brown is live but am unsure what the black and red are??
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Re: problems with amp switch
Get an ohm meter and test to a known ground, like the sleeve on the guitar cable. If neither is grounded, it doesn't matter. If one is grounded, take it to neutral.
Best bet, get the same switch and put it in exactly like the one you have.
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The schematic shows it as a standard 1/4 inch stereo plug. Wire the ground common to both switches (Channel and DFX), the ring to one switch and the tip to the other...I.E. ground (sleeve) to ring for one switch and ground to tip for the other. You'll have to experiment with which switch operates what function and label them accordingly.
The amplifier takes a bit of time to come to DC balance and same thing happens as power goes down. Some fancier units will have a relay to disable speaker until balance occurs, but this one does not. As long as the cone centers within a couple seconds it will not cause a long term problem.
A lot of the rocker switches fail due to starting surge of these amps. You can try squirting a little CRC226 into the back if it has holes. You can get this product at Home Depot in the electrical dept. Use ONLY this product. Blue can about $2.70
If that doesn't fix it, then replacement of the switch is in order.
first off nothing should pop when turned off next it could be a grounding problem external or internal or worse an audio output problem take a volt meeter and turn key to on check the ground and positive on the amp should read 12 to 14 volts do same with ground and remote wire if these both read correct remove the back set your meeter to the diode setting the audio outputs are usually the larger ones but sometimes not take your leads and touch out side legs then to the outside to center try each one every way you can switching leads if at any time the buzzer stays on or goes to flat 0 then that output is bad if all check good i would go through the car making better connections and cleaning up any wires that might seem to be faulty maybe even replace your RCA cables im running 18 speakers and 8 amplifiers in my car and i have done this several times :( but i don't pop unless something is wrong hope this helps
These are a real pain to open. You have to remove the front panel to remove a shield to remove the back amplifier power supply area. The power supply is a switching type and has lethal voltages present. Working on this should be done using an isolation transformer. With your symptoms, it is likely one side of the power amp MAY be blown, but do check that the wiring hasn't fallen off and the jack itself. Two pairs of wires come from the power amp to the front panel jacks. document location of ALL the cables you disconnect as they CAN be confusing to restore.