Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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KENMORE H3T WASHER GREY TWISTED FRONT SEAL

The grey seal on the Kenmore H3T appears to be twisted. It looks like the whole assembly that holds the drum has shifted an inch or so in the direction of spin. In other words the seal is firmly attached to the body and also firmly attached to the "floating" drum bearing. Well the bearing that holds the drum looks like it shifted somewhat and now the seal is stressed and looks twisted. Is there some way to lift up the drum assembly and reset it back to where it was so the seal isn't stressed. I think it may have gotten out of balance when it was drying. Thanks

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I am currently replacing this bellow because of holes and five years of wear and tear. The bellow is attached to the front door assembly via a spring loaded clamp. This clamp is a solid large wire ring with loops on each end where the spring attaches. You do not have to remove the spring, just place a screwdriver between the bellow and the ring or spring to remove. This will allow you to take off the bellow from the lip of the front door assembly to reposition. The spring clamp goes on starting first from opposite of the spring and working in both directions a little at a time. ALL DONE.

Posted on Dec 30, 2006

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Kenmore H3t filter is where


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Jun 19, 2012 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Hi there, I have a Kenmore Elite H3t and wanted to do a load of laundry today and it keeps blinking in Red DL and then F. I looked through my manual in the troubleshooting area and of course that...


Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. Error "dlf" means a door latch failure. This means that you'll need to replace the door latch assembly however before doing that you can leave the washer unplugged for 30minutes so that it resets itself. In the meantime when it's unplugged just inspect the door latch wiring to ensure all the connector plugs are intact and not loose or broken. You can access the door latch wiring harness by removing the top panel of the washer. To remove the top panel just remove the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, and then lift off. Locate the door latch assembly behind the front panel on the right hand side. Trace all the connectors from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) and make sure they are properly seated at both ends. If after doing this still the issue is not resolved then unfortunately you have to get the door latch replaced. Please rate the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

Oct 08, 2010 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore elite h3t giving f dl code, wont start to wash my clothes


1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Aug 05, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Having trouble dismantling the motor / gearbox from the tub base of a 7244E washing machine, to replace the drive coupling. I have the 3 mounting screws out but can't withdraw the motor/gearbox assembly...


Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 

May 07, 2009 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

1 Answer

WASHTUB PROBLEM


Remove top panel. Most of these have front controls, so the screws on the top back allow the whole top to come off easily, remove the screws and pull the cover forward. If the dryer is mounted on top of the washer, remove the dryer off first. Remove the 2 lower screws on the front panel, pull kick panel down and off. Turn off the hot and cold water taps and remove back panel. 
2. Loosen two screws that hold weight on back half and slide out weight. 
3. Remove drive belt. Cut wire tie, unplug motor and leave wiring in the bottom of the washer. Remove 4 screws/bolts that hold on motor and remove motor
4. On front right, loosen screw and remove rubber drain trap from tub. Squeeze large snap ring and remove water level sensor ( thing that looks like an old fuel filter ) from rubber drain also. Remove little hose from top of water level switch also. ( NOTE: You can also disconnect the level switch hose at the top of the washer. This will make it easier to re-connect, however you'll need to be careful that you do not damage the hose when you remove the tub assembly ).
5. At this point, you might want to remove the motor control board and pump motor assembly. Each is secured by 2 screws and are easily removed. This will prevent accidental damage and give you more room inside the washer to work with. There are 2 connectors on the control board and 1 on the pump motor � be sure to remove those first. 
6. Shocks, push the lock tab to allow the pin  to be slid out of the tub and the shock will be free from the drum. ( picture help one and picture help two )Push pins through to the rear and remove. The baskets will now be hanging from the springs. 
7. From top, twist out the tube from top of the outer tank. Place support under drum. I use 2 blocks of wood. 
8. From front, carefully cut the glued spots where the door seal is glued to the front panel and remove the fill spout holder clip. The tools used is a piece of copper tubing flattened down. I use a wire tie to reinstall as the metal clip can be a pain to work with!
9. Drum should just be hanging from 2 large springs. Remove the clips/spring holders that go over the top of the springs so they can be lifted and removed from the washer. Start on either side, lift spring, move toward center and lower to disconnect drum from the frame. Completely remove spring. Repeat on the other side. Drum should now be sitting on the supports. 
10. From above, lift drum and slide out the rear. Leaves you with an empty cabinet.
11. Lay drum on front face on a blanket or sheet and start to remove screws that hold halves together. Once all screws are out, the back half with pulley (top half if sitting on face) easily lifts up from the other half. 
12. Remove and replace tub gasket seal. New seal will appear thicker than old one. The old seal can be picked out with a small flat screwdriver.
Assembly. 
13.  Place supports in bottom of washer. Lift and slide drum back into place on top of supports. 
14. I use a zip/wire tie to go around the water fill tube where the spring clip was and then cut the leftover tail off of the zip/wire tie. I remove the 2 screws holding the plastic hose in place to make installing the wire tie easier. Push the rubber boot over the plastic hose and use the wire tie to secure the boot to the plastic hose. Helps to install drum support springs (big ones on top) first.
15. Install safety clips back over springs. Glue the top hose back into place.
16. Front assembly reverse of disassembly. 
17. Back and Motor assemble reverse of disassembly. 
18. Finally, pull the boot over the front of washer. Don't do this until drum is in fully, or the boot might not end up on straight and might twist a bit. Small spots are re-glued again in place, super glue works well for this.. Spot glue at the 12 o'clock, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 o'clock positions around the opening.
19. Put on back and top. 
20. Run load, check for leaks. Note: back panel is structural and should be on for a load to be run. 
21. Should be done. Total time 3+ hours. I hope this helps anyone who has to get into the Frigidaire -Kenmore ( 417.###### ) front loader and replace the seal/tub bearing&shell or inner basket. 

May 07, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Torn door seal on front loading washer


My husband used super glue on the tear and for now the washer is not leaking.

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1 Answer

Clothes have holes from getting caught in seall during spin cycle


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My kenmore h3t washer is showing codes f and sud


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Jan 03, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Turn signal


look at the plastic cover of the light. see if there are screws on the front, remove the screws and the bulb will be exposed.

if your signal light is a whole assembly, you can remove the whole assembly by unscrewing the holding screws and sliding the assembly. then twist the bulb holder that is inserted in the back of the assembly and the bulb would be exposed.

tnx 4 using fixya,

drcool

Sep 28, 2008 | 2002 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

Washer door seal is loose


The rubber seal fits over the lip around the door opening. Carefully seat the rubber seal all the way around the door opening first. Then, place the wire hoop in the crease where the rubber seal fits over the lip. Insert the hoop with the spring pointing at the bottom. Starting at the top and work your way around the door opening to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. While holding the hoop in place, stretch the spring apart enough to allow the rest of the hoop to snap into the crease at the bottom of the door opening. You may need a second pair of hands to help you with this. Good luck and I hope this helps you.

Sep 16, 2007 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

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