Question about Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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I need to remove a goodman ignitor B1401015.

The ignitor has a couple of screws holding it down. The second screw is under the gas pipe. Is there an easy way to remove the ignitor?

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Don't touch the igniter coil itself when installing. Your fingerprint might destroy the surface igniter when it charges up. Hold it by the BRACKET ONLY when removing new part from the package and during installation!

Posted on Mar 31, 2010

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Hello i have a goodman furnace fairly new the ignitor stopped working i have replaced it 4 times now every day what is going on .my furnace is under my floor this is getting really irratating the last time i vacumed the furnace out real good thinking sand may have been blowing on the ignitor . now its sunday and its out againand its freezing . please can you help me figure this out. dave thanks

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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The gas pipe should have a union and shut-off on it. Turn gas off and spn out the gas line. Re-install using pipe dope and check for leaks.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

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I have no manual however I have narrowed the problem down to the ignitor. It comes on and glows for 15 seconds and then it goes out. About 5 minutes later it repeats itself. how do I gain access to the...

If the ignitor is coming on, it's working. Do not go there. Make sure the gas valve behind the dryer is turned on.
There are 2 things that can go wrong. Either the radiant sensor is bad or the gas valve solenoids have failed. More than likely the solenoids have failed. The part is 279834. You can change these parts without taking the gas valve apart.
To gain access to the solenoids, you need to disassemble the top panel and the front panel. To remove the top panel, you need to unclip the control panel first. Take a flat thin paint scraper and slide it between the left and right end caps of the control panel and the top panel. This will unclip the control panel from the top panel. Once unclipped, lift the control panel up and over. Remove the 3 screws holding the top panel and the 2 screws hold the filter screen. Pull the panel forward and remove.
Remove 2 screws holding the front panel. Remove the belt and drum. BE SURE TO OBSERVE HOW THE BELT IS MOUNTED BEFORE REMOVING SO IT WILL BE EASIER REINSTALL.
Hope this helps.

Aug 24, 2011 | Dryers


Sunjoy L-PH 018PS Patio Heater pilot failure repair

What is likely happening is that the pilot flame cannot reach the thermocouple. This is usually caused by corrosion or other blockage of the gas to the area where the pilot lights. Thus resulting in a small flame or no flame on the side the thermocouple is located. Fix this by cleaning out the corrosion or other blockage in the pilot assembly. I have found that small spiders like to make their homes here which causes the blockage of the gas for the pilot. The pilot assembly has three parts to it. The ignitor electrode, the pilot light tower, and the thermocoupler. The ignitor electrode has a wire that goes from it to the push button ignitor. The pilot tower is located in the middle and has a gas line going to it from the gas valve (control knob). The thermocoupler stands next to and on the opposite side of the ignitor electrode. It also has a copper line from it to the gas valve.

Unfortunately, the Sunjoy you have, which is the same model of two I have to keep running, is difficult to service. Parts are not readily available either so be careful when you take it apart. They do not sell the individual smaller parts in this model and therefore make you buy complete assemblies.

To clean and service the pilot assembly, remove the screws holding the front plate on where your control knob is. Once that is removed you can see the back of the ignitor, it is black and has one wire coming from it leading up to the ignitor electrode. You will also be able to see the small gas line from the gas valve going up to the pilot tower and the small copper line from the gas valve to the thermocoupler. That assembly is what you need to get to, to clean.

You do that by removing the top canopy by removing the three screws holding it down. Once that is removed, remove the center nut on the heat exchanger (the part that heats up with all of the little holes). It is located on the top and in the center of the heat exhanger. Then remove the three screws that are located around the bottom of the heat exchanger that connects the collar to it. You should be able to remove the heat exchanger now. Tilt the whole heater2_bing.gif down and prop the neck on something so you can work on it.

If you look in the top you will be able to see small metal box covering the pilot assembly. This is held onto the pilot assembly with two screws. Remove those screws and carefully remove the box. Now remove the two screws that holds the pilot assembly to the collar (located on the outside of the collar). The gas and copper lines will hold it up. If you look at the pilot assembly from the top you will see one screw holding the ignitor electrode to the pilot assembly bracket. Remove that screw, unplug the wire from the ignitor and remove the ignitor electrode from the assembly. Be careful not to break this and I am having you remove it so that you do not break it.

Now remove the nut that holds the thermocoupler onto the pilot assembly bracket and pull it out of the bracket. The copper line will hold it up and be careful not to kink the copper line. Take a piece of sandpaper and clean the outside surface of the thermocoupler. Corrosion on the thermocoupler could cause it to fail which will cause the pilot not to stay lit. I have not had one do that yet but it could happen.

Now, remove the gas line from the bottom of the pilot tower so that the tower and bracket are in your hands. Put it down and put the heater back up straight. Hook up your gas and turn the gas on. Now, press the control knob on the pilot setting to make sure you have gas coming out of the gas line that feeds the pilot. You should be able to hear, feel and smell it. If not you have a regulator problem or an empty tank. Turn off your gas, remove it from the heater and tilt the heater back down.

Take your pilot assembly, you will see a circular top to the pilot tower that is held down with really small metal ears. Carefully bend the ears back with a needle nose pliers so that you can bend the top of the tower back. Only bend it back far enough to clean the inside of it with a bent wire and compressed air or something. If you look on the lower side of the bracket, above where the gas line is threaded on you will see a hole that goes all the way through the assembly. This hole regulates the pilot gas pressure and allows the gas to mix with the air before it burns. Make sure that hole is clear of debris and take wire or something and thread it through the hole up through the top side of the tower.

When you have it clean, reconnect the gas line, thermocoupler and ignitor electrode. Once reconnected and before screwing the assembly back to the collar, I set the heater back up right and reconnect the gas. I then light the pilot to make certain you have a good strong pilot light generously touching the thermocoupler. The pilot should stay lit after holding the button in for a few seconds. Do not turn the heater on past the pilot area without the heat exchanger on or you might singe your hair. If the pilot works the way it is supposed to, turn it off, disconnect your gas, tilt the heater back down and reassemble it following the intructions in the opposite manner.

on Mar 24, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Can't get the pilot light to start

Is this the newer style with closed combustion chamber. If so I would check to make sure that spark ignitor is working. If not it will need replaced. If ignitor is workingthen loosen compression nut on line to pilot and temporarily depress button on gas valve to make sure you have gas at that point.If you have gas there and tighten compression nut to pilot back up and it still won't light then you will need to remove screws that hold cover on burner compartment.Shut off valve to gas supply and remove gas line from gas valve remove pilot and thermocouple lines. Slide burner out ofcompartment and clean it .Remove nut from bottom of pilot assembly and clean out pilot orifice. Blow through pilot line to make sure it's all clear
Reassemble everthing using teflon tape or pipe joint compound as needed.Turn gas supply valve on and check for leaks.Set gas valve control to pilot and depress pilot button and hold. While you are holding button done push spark ignitor every few seconds until it lights. thank you and good luck

Dec 22, 2010 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

Oven does not heat up

most likely you have a bad bake ignitor part number WB13K21 and it's around 80 dollars,unplug the machine or shut down the breaker,remove the racks,remove the bottom floor of the oven,remove the flame panel and you'll see the ignitor attached to the burner tube,unplug the wire harness going to the ignitor,remove the screws holding the ignitor in place,plug in the new ignitor and put the screws back in,turn the power on and put it on bake,the ignitor should start to glow and the flame should lite in around 40 seconds.there are other ignitors that you can use in the stove,the only difference is that you cut the wires going to the old ignitor and splice in the new ignitor and use ceramic wire nuts to connect the wires together,it just doesn't have the harness connector on it

Nov 27, 2010 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

I have a Maytag Oven Model CRG9800BAE Will not ignite gas when turned on.

are you saying that when you set it to bake the oven doesn't heat or are you talking about the top burners?if it's the oven you have a bad ignitor, the oven flame should lite in under 40 seconds to a minute,if it doesn't it's the ignitor,part number 12400035 and it's around 80 bucks.unplug it or kill the braker,take out the racks,remove the bottom panel or oven floor,take off the wing nut and remove the metal cover and you'll see the burner tube and the ignitor,,with a wet paper towel wet the screw threds on the two screws with water so they don't strip out and then remove the two screws holding the ignitor on,trust me it works.if you have to, unplug the ignitor or if it's not the original ignitor cut the two wires at the end of the old ignitor and connect the new ignitor with the ceramic wire caps and remove the burner tube if it's hard to get at the ignitor screws.put it back together and the ignitor should lite the flame in less than a minute.let me know how you make out

Aug 22, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

Our oven does not heat-the broiler and the range do work but the oven doesn't get hot. Is this a pilot problem-and if so how do we re-light it?

is it gas or electric?if it's gas and the broil works but the bake doesn't you need to change out the ignitor,ovens are electronic ignition now and you don't relight them unless you know there is a pilot,next time send brand name and model number,if there's a storage draw under the oven door,open the draw and look at the frame to the left or to the right of draw opening and you'll see a tag with the model number,most likely all you need is an ignitor,pull out the racks and remove the bottom panel and you'll see the ignitor next to the burner tube,when you put the oven on bake the ignitor should glow red and ignite the flame in less than a minute most times less than 40 seconds,if it doesn't you need to change the ignitor.when you go to remove the screws that hold the ignitor on wet the threds with a wet paper towel and the screws will come out easier than if they were dry

May 13, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

How do i instell the gas igniter

did you read it out with a meter to make sure the ignitor's bad?you could have a bad thermal fuse,a bad sensor or bad gas coils,you need to check them with a meter, unplug the wire connector,there's a 1/4 inch screw that goes through the middle of the ignitor that holds it in place,lossen the screw,push the ignitor forwards and remove it,put the new ignitor in place,slide it back and tighten the screw,sometime you need to remove the screw and connect the wire

Feb 10, 2010 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Goodman furnace wont light, ignitor suspected (part#b1401015)- what does the ignitor ohm out at, and what is the input voltage upon ignition? I get steady 4.9V, then fan turns off-

Notice. I do not mind helping diagnose furnaces although I try to be cautious when giving advice on them. Please bare with me if I ask question. I don't want anyone burning their house down or hurting themselves and a furnace will do both.

You stated that you get a steady 4.9v then the fan turns off. Which fan are you speaking of? Also, the igniter should read 3.8 ohm's if it's good. The furnace should be sending 120 v to the igniter.
I'm not sure the igniter is the problem unit I receive a reply from question.

Oct 19, 2009 | Goodman Heating & Cooling

1 Answer


hi thanks for the question remove that screw remove the burner assy now remove the screws that hold the igniter .replace parts thanks the appliance doc

Jun 11, 2008 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

18 Answers

GE XL44 gas oven

Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. back.

Jan 18, 2007 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

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