Question about Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

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I need to remove a goodman ignitor B1401015.

The ignitor has a couple of screws holding it down. The second screw is under the gas pipe. Is there an easy way to remove the ignitor?

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Don't touch the igniter coil itself when installing. Your fingerprint might destroy the surface igniter when it charges up. Hold it by the BRACKET ONLY when removing new part from the package and during installation!

Posted on Mar 31, 2010

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Hello i have a goodman furnace fairly new the ignitor stopped working i have replaced it 4 times now every day what is going on .my furnace is under my floor this is getting really irratating the last time i vacumed the furnace out real good thinking sand may have been blowing on the ignitor . now its sunday and its out againand its freezing . please can you help me figure this out. dave thanks

Posted on Dec 07, 2008

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The gas pipe should have a union and shut-off on it. Turn gas off and spn out the gas line. Re-install using pipe dope and check for leaks.

Posted on Nov 21, 2008

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Sunjoy L-PH 018PS Patio Heater pilot failure repair


What is likely happening is that the pilot flame cannot reach the thermocouple. This is usually caused by corrosion or other blockage of the gas to the area where the pilot lights. Thus resulting in a small flame or no flame on the side the thermocouple is located. Fix this by cleaning out the corrosion or other blockage in the pilot assembly. I have found that small spiders like to make their homes here which causes the blockage of the gas for the pilot. The pilot assembly has three parts to it. The ignitor electrode, the pilot light tower, and the thermocoupler. The ignitor electrode has a wire that goes from it to the push button ignitor. The pilot tower is located in the middle and has a gas line going to it from the gas valve (control knob). The thermocoupler stands next to and on the opposite side of the ignitor electrode. It also has a copper line from it to the gas valve.

Unfortunately, the Sunjoy you have, which is the same model of two I have to keep running, is difficult to service. Parts are not readily available either so be careful when you take it apart. They do not sell the individual smaller parts in this model and therefore make you buy complete assemblies.

To clean and service the pilot assembly, remove the screws holding the front plate on where your control knob is. Once that is removed you can see the back of the ignitor, it is black and has one wire coming from it leading up to the ignitor electrode. You will also be able to see the small gas line from the gas valve going up to the pilot tower and the small copper line from the gas valve to the thermocoupler. That assembly is what you need to get to, to clean.

You do that by removing the top canopy by removing the three screws holding it down. Once that is removed, remove the center nut on the heat exchanger (the part that heats up with all of the little holes). It is located on the top and in the center of the heat exhanger. Then remove the three screws that are located around the bottom of the heat exchanger that connects the collar to it. You should be able to remove the heat exchanger now. Tilt the whole heater2_bing.gif down and prop the neck on something so you can work on it.

If you look in the top you will be able to see small metal box covering the pilot assembly. This is held onto the pilot assembly with two screws. Remove those screws and carefully remove the box. Now remove the two screws that holds the pilot assembly to the collar (located on the outside of the collar). The gas and copper lines will hold it up. If you look at the pilot assembly from the top you will see one screw holding the ignitor electrode to the pilot assembly bracket. Remove that screw, unplug the wire from the ignitor and remove the ignitor electrode from the assembly. Be careful not to break this and I am having you remove it so that you do not break it.

Now remove the nut that holds the thermocoupler onto the pilot assembly bracket and pull it out of the bracket. The copper line will hold it up and be careful not to kink the copper line. Take a piece of sandpaper and clean the outside surface of the thermocoupler. Corrosion on the thermocoupler could cause it to fail which will cause the pilot not to stay lit. I have not had one do that yet but it could happen.

Now, remove the gas line from the bottom of the pilot tower so that the tower and bracket are in your hands. Put it down and put the heater back up straight. Hook up your gas and turn the gas on. Now, press the control knob on the pilot setting to make sure you have gas coming out of the gas line that feeds the pilot. You should be able to hear, feel and smell it. If not you have a regulator problem or an empty tank. Turn off your gas, remove it from the heater and tilt the heater back down.

Take your pilot assembly, you will see a circular top to the pilot tower that is held down with really small metal ears. Carefully bend the ears back with a needle nose pliers so that you can bend the top of the tower back. Only bend it back far enough to clean the inside of it with a bent wire and compressed air or something. If you look on the lower side of the bracket, above where the gas line is threaded on you will see a hole that goes all the way through the assembly. This hole regulates the pilot gas pressure and allows the gas to mix with the air before it burns. Make sure that hole is clear of debris and take wire or something and thread it through the hole up through the top side of the tower.

When you have it clean, reconnect the gas line, thermocoupler and ignitor electrode. Once reconnected and before screwing the assembly back to the collar, I set the heater back up right and reconnect the gas. I then light the pilot to make certain you have a good strong pilot light generously touching the thermocoupler. The pilot should stay lit after holding the button in for a few seconds. Do not turn the heater on past the pilot area without the heat exchanger on or you might singe your hair. If the pilot works the way it is supposed to, turn it off, disconnect your gas, tilt the heater back down and reassemble it following the intructions in the opposite manner.


on Mar 24, 2010 | Heaters

1 Answer

I have a 4 year old Goodman heater model GMS81155CNA that we just replaced the blower motor on, fortunately it was under warranty until April. Now it keeps trying to cycle 2 or 3 times before the burners...


i would start by checking the flame sensor mounted in the same area as the ignitor or glow stick as you called it... the flame sensor is a metal rod mounted in the direct path of the flame once lighted... it senses the flame and sends signal back to control board to keep gas valve opened and continue the operation.... if the flame sensor is dirty or faulty will start to shut system down premature... the pressure switch could be a problem as well but normally if it goes bad it will fail as soon as unit fires and continue to fail due to a bad diaphram in switch... will mimic a bad flame sensor as well unit will fire but will within seconds shut back down.... the ignitor has to be hot enough to light when gas enters chamber and can be weak but if it works sometimes then i would say it is ok....the flame sensor can be pulled and gently cleaned with light grit sand paper dont over due it but clean it up a little and try it... again it is located next to hot surface ignitor( glow stick) usually has quarter inch hex head screw holding it in place... positional to get out but will come out....

Jan 24, 2011 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

3 Answers

Sunjoy L-PH018PSS Patio Heater Replacement Parts


What is likely happening is that the pilot flame cannot reach the thermocoupler. This is usually caused by corrosion or other blockage of the gas to the area where the pilot lights. Thus resulting in a small flame or no flame on the side the thermocoupler is located. Fix this by cleaning out the corrosion or other blockage in the pilot assembly. I have found that small spiders like to make their homes here which causes the blockage of the gas for the pilot. The pilot assembly has three parts to it. The ignitor electrode, the pilot light tower, and the thermocoupler. The ignitor electrode has a wire that goes from it to the push button ignitor. The pilot tower is located in the middle and has a gas line going to it from the gas valve (control knob). The thermocoupler stands next to and on the opposite side of the ignitor electrode. It also has a copper line from it to the gas valve.

Unfortunately, the Sunjoy you have, which is the same model of two I have to keep running, is difficult to service. Parts are not readily available either so be careful when you take it apart. They do not sell the individual smaller parts in this model and therefore make you buy complete assemblies.

To clean and service the pilot assembly, remove the screws holding the front plate on where your control knob is. Once that is removed you can see the back of the ignitor, it is black and has one wire coming from it leading up to the ignitor electrode. You will also be able to see the small gas line from the gas valve going up to the pilot tower and the small copper line from the gas valve to the thermocoupler. That assembly is what you need to get to, to clean.

You do that by removing the top canopy by removing the three screws holding it down. Once that is removed, remove the center nut on the heat exchanger (the part that heats up with all of the little holes). It is located on the top and in the center of the heat exhanger. Then remove the three screws that are located around the bottom of the heat exchanger that connects the collar to it. You should be able to remove the heat exchanger now. Tilt the whole heater down and prop the neck on something so you can work on it.

If you look in the top you will be able to see small metal box covering the pilot assembly. This is held onto the pilot assembly with two screws. Remove those screws and carefully remove the box. Now remove the two screws that holds the pilot assembly to the collar (located on the outside of the collar). The gas and copper lines will hold it up. If you look at the pilot assembly from the top you will see one screw holding the ignitor electrode to the pilot assembly bracket. Remove that screw, unplug the wire from the ignitor and remove the ignitor electrode from the assembly. Be careful not to break this and I am having you remove it so that you do not break it.

Now remove the nut that holds the thermocoupler onto the pilot assembly bracket and pull it out of the bracket. The copper line will hold it up and be careful not to kink the copper line. Take a piece of sandpaper and clean the outside surface of the thermocoupler. Corrosion on the thermocoupler could cause it to fail which will cause the pilot not to stay lit. I have not had one do that yet but it could happen.

Now, remove the gas line from the bottom of the pilot tower so that the tower and bracket are in your hands. Put it down and put the heater back up straight. Hook up your gas and turn the gas on. Now, press the control knob on the pilot setting to make sure you have gas coming out of the gas line that feeds the pilot. You should be able to hear, feel and smell it. If not you have a regulator problem or an empty tank. Turn off your gas, remove it from the heater and tilt the heater back down.

Take your pilot assembly, you will see a circular top to the pilot tower that is held down with really small metal ears. Carefully bend the ears back so that you can bend the top of the tower back. Only bend it back far enough to clean the inside of it with a bent wire and compressed air or something. If you look on the lower side of the bracket, above where the gas line is threaded on you will see a hole that goes all the way through the assembly. This hole regulates the pilot gas pressure and allows the gas to mix with the air before it burns. Make sure that hole is clear of debris and take wire or something and thread it through the hole up through the top side of the tower.

When you have it clean, reconnect the gas line, thermocoupler and ignitor electrode. Once reconnected and before screwing the assembly back to the collar, I set the heater back up right and reconnect the gas. I then light the pilot to make certain you have a good strong pilot light generously touching the thermocoupler. The pilot should stay lit haver holding the button in for a few seconds. Do not turn the heater on past the pilot area without the heat exchanger on or you might singe your hair. If the pilot works the way it is supposed to, turn it off, disconnect your gas, tilt the heater back down and reassemble it following the intructions in the opposite manner.

The ignitor problem:
It is probably corroded in the cap (which is also the switch) or inside the ignitor where the battery goes at the spring. Spray these areas out with WD40 which will clean the corrosion out and try it again with a new battery. If it does not go click click click when you press the button you may have to take the ignitor out. Unscrew the cap and then the little black plastic collar which secures the ignitor to the collar. This should allow you to remove the ignitor by turning and maneuvering it out of the collar past the gas valve. Put the battery back in and replace the cap. Press the button to see if it works. Be careful it may shock you causing you to squeal, cuss and likely drop the ignitor.

I just had one do this to me. For some reason the little black collar that secures the ignitor to the heater collar would not screw all the way in. This would not allow cap to fully screw on and therefore would not allow contact with the battery to the contact inside the ignitor near the spring. Tighten it up as best you can so that contact can be made when you press the button. I believe this is one part you can order from Sunjoy separately if you cannot get yours to work....Good Luck

Jan 09, 2010 | Uniflame 200209 Open Flame Patio Heater

1 Answer

I have a 1987 Goodman, (GU150-5 REV S) model gas furnace. The problem I have is keeping the pilot light on. I replace the thermal coupling twice, work for a few days and goes out again. Please tell me what...


If you have a weak pilot flame it could cause this. There is an adjustment screw for the pilot flame under another philips head screw that takes a small flat head screwdriver to adjust. Turning the pilot flame up may help.

Dec 21, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

3 Answers

GOODMAN GAS FURNACE. IGNITOR GLOWS, GAS FIRES FOR 3-4 SECONDS THEN SHUTS OFF..CYCLES OVER AND OVER. SOMETIMES IT STAYS ON...THEN SHUTS OFF BEFORE TEMPERATURE GETS UP TO THE STAT SETTING...


I suspect that the flame is not traveling to all the burners within a given time so the flame sensor is shuting down the gas valve. Clean out the flame rail where the flame travels and carefully brush off the flame rod with an old tooth brush.

Oct 19, 2009 | Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater

1 Answer

Gsm080-4 4 blinks on code cover says main limit open or aux limit


Sounds like you have a hot surface ignitor that is not working. The ignitor is located in front of the burner assembly. It usually takes two 1/4 screws to hold bracket. If you need and more help just reply back to this solution with your questions and i will try to help you

Jan 17, 2009 | Goodman GDS80904BNA Open Flame Heater

1 Answer

Need to move the unit by dismantling


Remove the two screws on the side trim. Remove the two top screws from the filter panel. Reach behind the heater and pull the sock down on the vent pipe. unclip the two clamps holding the vent pipe together. Remove the plastic elbow off of the vent termination. Slide the heater to the left to slide the vent pipe off of the vent termination. Remove the gas line after shutting the gas off.

Dec 28, 2008 | Rinnai RHFE-431FAIII 16,700 BTU Direct...

2 Answers

Will not stay lit.


Sounds like you have a blockage to the main jet. If you have a compressor just blow the jet out from the top and with a bit of luck it will clear it. If not you may need to remove the outer covering and find the pipe to the main jet and again using compressed air just blow it out. Usually not much goes wrong with these apart from blockages every now and then and most of the servicing places just blow them out with compressed air. Just make sure if you remove a pipe you tighten the pipe up properly when re-fitting it. Hope this helps

Regards
bryan

Jan 08, 2008 | Dyna-Glo RMC-8001SS Heater

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