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Sounds like burner not igniting. On front of dryer in the lower right there should be a gas valve/burner access panel. Usually you just have to pry out at bottom of panel & swing out and up to remove. This gives you access to valve coils and igniter. With panel removed set timer for heated dry and start dryer, observing first the igniter which should glow bright orange-red, then after a couple seconds you should hear a "Click" which is gas valve opening and a blue flame ignites for heat. If no glow is seen after a few seconds or at least a minute, igniter is bad, if it does glow and no click is heard from the gas valve, the coils (electro magnets) on the valve are bad, or the "Flame present" sensor is bad. Chances are it's either the coils or igniter.Try this on all heat settings, if you get heat at only one setting it might be in timer contacts, but not common. Again you can repair/replace both the igniter (usually just plugs into a receptical) and the coils (2 donut looking objects on the gas valve, replace both.) Access door may be on back if not on front, but normally their on lower right of front.
sir it ignites at the voltage bet 230v-250v.there will be a sensor problem where it cannot try to ignite
try to clean ignitor area..
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer. To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.
Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
A few months ago I lost one igniter on the left front burner. It clicks and gas flows but wont ignite.Now when I turn on the left back burner, the gas still flows but I hear clicking on the right side, not from that burner. It wont light either.
Look at the gas control box. Inside this box has a valve to open the gas so it can sustain the burner. This valve is control by the voltage of dryer sensor. This thermocouple is near the ignitor.. If this fails, there would be no voltage to open the valve. Here is how it looks like:
your dryer may have a spark igniter or a hot wire igniter .. those go bad after so many hours .. if you look in where the flame usually is .. as your start the dryer, you should see a small glowing wire if its a hot wire igniter .. or you should hear clicking and see sparks if its a spark igniter .. if you dont see/hear either then thats likely your problem .... both of those parts are available from washer/dryer parts distributors or GE parts on the internet .. but you have to know the make and model number of your dryer .. you should find that on a tag inside the door or on the back. .. if it actually ignites but quickly shuts off then you probably have a clogged exhaust hose or lint filter chamber .. it reqires a large unrestricted air flow thru the machine. if that is blocked then a sensor shuts off the gas in just a few seconds . . i am assuming that the drum is turning .. if not then thats a whole different problem ..
Since you indicated that it had an igniter I assume you have a natural gas or propane model. I had some trouble with a Hotpoint dryer and replaced the igniter. That didn't solve the problem. I then decided to just change the gas solenoid and the flame sensor at the same time and it worked fine again. I got them both cheap from Ebay from the same seller.
The flame sensor tells the machine if the ingiter was able to light the gas burner. If it doesn't sense the heat it will turn off the gas solenoid so your house doesn't fill with gas. The gas solenoid is an electrical valve that lets the gas flow into the burner. You should be able to hear the gas solenoid click when it opens and then your igniter will glow and start the flame. If it shuts itself off within a minute of that then I would suggest the flame sensor as a starting point. If it never clicks then I would start with the solenoid.
Good Luck and post back here if you solve it for the next person with your trouble.
First make sure that the gas valve is on. Then verify that the gas connector is not kinked or restricted. then remove the connector at the back of the dryer and make sure there is gas pressure. Then visually inspect the pipe at the back of the dryer. Use a flashlight to inspect inside the pipe and make sure there is no debris inside the pipe that could restrict gas flow. On this dryer there is no removable burner door cover on the front or inspection window so you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer. Once the panel is removed you can turn on the dryer. You should first hear a click sound. That is the first gas solenoid valve opening. Then the igniter should start to glow. Once the igniter reaches 2200 degrees the secondary gas solenoid valve should click and the burner will come on. If you do not hear a click when the dryer is first turned on you will need test the first gas solenoid valve. Make sure it is getting voltage with a fluke meter. You can also touch a piece of metal to the top of the valve and the top should be magnetized when active. If you hear the first click but no igniter glow then verify the igniter is getting voltage and test the igniter with a fluke meter. You will need to test the ohms and most should be 500 to 700 ohms. If the igniter does not get a good reading or none it is probably defective and needs replacement. Usually most places that sell appliance parts will test the igniter for free. Just because the igniter glows does not mean that it is good. It can glow but not reach the 2200 degrees needed for the proper operation. Now if the igniter is good and you hear a second click then there might be a restriction somewhere in the gas line between the solenoids or the gas orfice at the burner. The sensor Gort was talking about is the flame rectification sensor and can detect the flame. It is rare for this to be faulty but not impossible. If you get flame for a couple seconds and then it shuts off it could be this sensor. Blow the burner assembly and this area off with compressed air and lint can block the sensor's ability to detect the burner flame. Also I believe your dryer has a larger fan blower than standard dryers. If this blower motor is not working the rest of the system will not come on. make sure the assist fan is working and that the vacuum switch is working and not stuck. Also check the vacuum line is not disconnected or restricted. And always remember that there are exposed power connections inside the dryer that could shock you and cause injury. use caution and if you do not feel comfortable working on this you might want to call a professional.
when you start you dryer and it got hot little bit and then won't got hot again? if yes then you may need new flame sensor..or if you can see your dryer igniter turn on your dryer and watch..you heard click sound then igniter will glow then one more click sound and should see flame..ok watch for 10 min..if after click sound igniter glow and other click flame will not apper then you need new gas valve..good luck..let me know it help or not...thanks..
There is a thermoelectric eye that says it is OK to keep the gas burner on. If this sensor is defective or blocked from "seeing" the gas flame is properly lit, it will turn off the gas flow (safety) override solenoid. With the unit unplugged make sure that the optical path on the upper right (1:30 CW position) flame tube inside sensor window is clean. The rattle you hear is probably the safety gas shut-off solenoid engaging. If you need more help, please ask -- SWT
The problem you are describing is usually associated with a bad gas valve coil. The dryer runs normally until it gets hot, then starts making a strange clicking noise. After it cools down, the dryer runs normally again. The gas valve coils (there are two of them) usually run about $20 a piece. I recommend replacing both of them at the same time just to be sure. I hope this helps.