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Re: oven wont light
Most likely, the bake igniter is shorted out and it has to be replaced. The part number for the igniter is 5303935066 .You can buy it for $60.00 to $80.00. If you are handy and have the right tools (Philips #1 and straight 1/4" screwdrivers, 1/4" and 5/16" nut drivers or socket wrenches, wire cutter and wire stripper) you probably can do it yourself. I would recommend to call a local appliance tech. just because of the safety issue. If you are going to do it yourself, let me know and I can help you with step by step instructions.
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You will need to look and see if the igniter is glowing a bright red. If it is weak, the oven will not light. Here is the igniter if you need to order it. Also check and make sure your getting 3.2-3.6 volts AC to the valve.
Hi, Well it sounds like the igniter on your bake element is not working. For your burner to light an igniter has to activate to turn the gas on. It is a glow plug style igniter which needs to get to a certain temp to open the gas valve. If it is bad it will not get to temp it needs to be changed. If it is glowing bright orange and the gas valve isnt opening then the solenoid on the gas valve is sticking and the gas valve will need to be changed. I hope this answered your question and helps.
This can be caused by a weak/inop hot surface igniter or a defective gas control valve. First you will need to verify that the hot surface igniter is coming on(you should see it glow in the burner compartment). If it is not glowing then you will need to verify that the wiring harness has voltage to it when the oven thermostat is on. Also check the igniter for any cracks or damage and if found then replace the igniter. If it is glowing then one thing that you can try(be very careful doing this) is to give the gas control valve a light tap with something hard like a wrench when the oven is turned on,igniter is glowing but the burner is not on. You will need to remove the broiler/storage drawer at the bottom of the oven. Once you pull the drawer out you should see the gas control valve at the back of the range. Try turning on the oven and lightly tapping the valve housing after the igniter is fully on. This may loosen up any debris inside the control valve housing that might be causing the problem. If the oven burner comes on then try completely turning the oven on and back of several times. And when I say completely I mean turn it on after the igniter is not glowing and burner has shut off. This works about 30% of the time. If the burner control valve sticks again after trying this procedure then it could be the control valve and/or the hot surface igniter defective. The hot surface igniter would need to be disconnected from it's harness and tested with an OHM meter. Most igniters should have a 500 to 700 OHM reading. If you get a reading that is way off then the igniter is defective and replace it. If the igniter tests good then the gas control valve is suspect and replace it. Most appliance parts retailers will test your igniter for free. When the igniter is on it should glow very brightly. If it is dim then that is a sure sign it is bad.
Gas or Electric? If Gas at the bottom of oven where Oven burner is there is a glow plug ,or some might call ignitor. When it get a signal to ignite gas that glow plug gets hot and ignites gas. and that does goes Bad .
Hi, glow plug (element) should glow red, maybe you got faulty thermocouple, located ot bottom of oven burner, unit where gas enter oven burner, they could either be gas pilot or electrical element as metering device, give a little tap, could be stuck, could also be your thermostat, check oven thermostat, many ways to check oven thermostat, give thermocouple a little tap located at beginning of oven burner, if it didn't work, call a mechnic to make futher checks. good luck.
I suspect you may have a bad igniter. They will still glow nice and hot, but if they are weak the gas valve will not open. This is actually a safety feature. Depending on which type you have, the glow bar igniter is supposed to draw a certain current potential before the gas valve will open. Here's the current readings for both types:
Round Glow Bar: 2.7 to 3.2 amps
Square Glow Bar: 3.2 to 3.7 amps
I would try to to determine if the igniter is good or bad before proceeding with a gas valve replacement. Generally, the igniter is a common fail item. Let me know if this helps.