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Dryer not heating hoover 5030d

Element resistance approx 30 ohms, thermostat has continuity. Possible to be in hot warm switch on front panel? no circuit diagram at my disposal.

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Some dryers have a thermo-fuse. It doesn't look like a normal fuse. It can look lide another thermost or a long plastic device with two wires foing to it. Also they have a high limit thermost that can open. There is a switch on the motor that won't let power go to the heater until the motor reaches a certain RPM. If this is a 220 volt dryer, it could also be the house circuit breaker. If one half of the breaker is bad or tripped, the motor can still run but you will have no heat. If the dryer has a heat selector switch IE delicate, no heat, or high heat. You should check that for continuity when in one of the heat selection positions. The timer can also cause no heat. Check the timer contacts when it set in a dry cycle. Hope this helps.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Hoover HNV380 Tumble dryer, has developed a fault that causes the dryer to stop working after a few minutes use. When it stops working, the start light indicator flashes steadily, I have replaced the


Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!

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Why would Amana Dryer not heat hot enough after replacing heating element?


Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

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1 Answer

Maytag cennial commerical dryer has no heat the hearing element is fine and the fuse is fine what else could be wrong


Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

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1 Answer

Len2000lw0 not heating anymore


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

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1 Answer

Why wil i not stay running or get hot


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run , the heater should not heat in order not to create fire but you said that even the motor is not running, the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

Aug 14, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have an Indesit ISL70 and we seem to have developed a problem. Three red lights are flashing (water, filter, heat exchanger, all of which are ok) and the door won't open. Any advice?


Note:- The front NTC connects on the top edge of the circuit board - plug with two orange wires. The element and rear NTC are connected on the right hand side of the circuit board - this plug has 5 wires Blue, Orange, Brown, Red and Black.

1) The front NTC measures approx 500k ohms.
2) The rear NTC measures approx 500K ohms [red and black wires on the plug]
3) The resistance between Orange and Blue Wires is Approx 46 Ohms [This is one half of the element]
4) The resistance between Orange and Brown wires is Approx 46 Ohms [This is the other half of the element]
5) The resistance between the Blue and Brown Wires is approx 92 Ohms [This both parts of the element]

My machine has 2 devices above the element, one is an NTC the other is the safety cut-out. The safety cut-out is connected in the orange wire to the element common connection.

The resistance of the NTC's varies with temperature - so you may not get the figure I have quoted. The resistance reduces as the NTC warms up; if you remove the NTC connect it to an Ohm meter and warm the flat metal side with your finger you'll see the resistance go down - the drop wont be dramatic [after all your finger is not that hot] and is easier to see on a digital meter.

Measurements taken with the plugs disconnected on a digital meter... and don't forget folks MAINS PLUG OUT FIRST!!!!

Important.... there are some different versions of these dryers, so different readings may be obtained.

Dec 22, 2010 | Indesit IS70C Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The dryer turns on and runs, but it is not heating up...


The problem is either the Safety Thermostat TH2, High-Limit Thermostat TH3, or the Heating Element itself. Here's what you should do find which among is the culprit.

Use a putty knife blade or similar tool to push and release the clips holding the top panel to the front panel. Insert the putty knife between the top panel and the front panel as shown at about 2 and 3/4 inches from the edges then push in until the clips are released then lift the top panel off.
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Open the door then remove the two screws at the bottom of the door opening as shown.
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Remove the two screws from the upper side of the front panel then pull the panel out and disconnect the Door Switch connector.
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Once the front panel is removed, you'll see the Heater Box at the bottom right hand side of the cabinet. Remove the cover and you'll see three sets of the terminals on the left side of the Heater Box. The set of three terminals is the Heating Element, the middle set is the Safety Thermostat TH2, while last set is High-Limit Thermostat TH3.
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Using a multimeter, set to the lowest Ohm scale (R X 1), check the continuity of the Safety Thermostat TH2 and High-Limit Thermostat TH3 then the resistance between the middle terminal of the Heating Element and the other two terminals.

The Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 are both normally closed and any discontinuity (open circuit) found indicates that the component has failed. It is necessary to replace both the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 if one of them has failed. The Safety Thermostat TH2 is likely to fail as a result of the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 failure.

The normal resistance between the middle terminal (2) and the upper terminal (1) is 18 ohms to 22 ohms while between the middle terminal (2) and the lower terminal (3) is 9 ohms to 11 ohms. Replace the Heating Element if an infinite resistance (open circuit)reading is obtained in any the measurements.

You may take the Heating Element out then thoroughly check it visually for any obvious coil discontinuity if you don't have a the meter to check the continuity of Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 and the resistance of the Heating Element. It will be obvious if the Heating Element has a broken coil.

The problem lies in either of the Safety Thermostat TH2 or the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 if the Heating Element coils is intact. Bypass both the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 then reconnect the Door Switch connector. Run the dryer and it should heat by now to indicate that either the Safety Thermostat TH2 or the High-Limit Thermostat TH3. Otherwise, it is a totally different story. Please let us know if that is the case.

Warning! Do not use the dryer with the Safety Thermostat TH2 and the High-Limit Thermostat TH3 bypassed due to fire hazards.

Aug 11, 2010 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

How do I diagnose a problem with a dryer that works but is not getting hot? It's a Maytag MDE2600AYW


Since the dryer runs, the thermal fuses are fine making a possible open circuit condition in any of the heating element, the cycling thermostat, and the high-limit thermostat. Remove the front panel to access the cycling thermostat on the blower housing, the high-limit thermostat on the heating element enclosure, and the heating element itself. Once accessed, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the large terminals of the cycling thermostat. There should be continuity on both parts. Use a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale. Continuity means zero resistance. Replace the part found with no continuity, i.e., open.

Check the resistance of the heating element using the same volt-ohmmeter set to the R X 1 scale. Replace the heating element should its resistance reads infinite (open).

The front panel can be removed by removing the four screws located vertically along the inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to the front shroud assembly.

Once the four screws are removed, grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer. Reinstall it in reverse of the removal steps.

May 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer not putting out warm to hot air. What is the issue?


Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

May 07, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer heating element(s) are inconsistent


there is only 1 element. were you taking these readings with the wires on them?
the other 2 were thermostats.was there lots of lint?
sounds like you may have bad thermostat.

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