I have a hotpoint ultima extra wma62. The drum doesn't turn anymore - even manually. I have tried taking it apart but cannot get access to the back to the drum - to check the spider and brushes. I have removed the belt and the motor turns very easily, so I can only assume its the drum/its axis. I have removed the top panel, the front, the door - but cannot get the back off so that I can undo the nut that seems to be holding the drum together. It looks like its one wrap around panel-back and sides, and is welded to the actual frame. can anyone offer any advice a to what the problem might be and how to get to the drum? All other parts work fine (although it is very very noisy when it spins fast.)
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Re: drum on my wma62 won't turn
The main drum bearigs have failed, you have to disconnect everything you can to enable you have to
remove the whole drum and container through the top of the m/c.
It is quite an involved repair, and could prove to be expensive. more so if the drum shaft is worn.
if you need any further info, let me know
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have you checked the motor brushes there are 2 of them they are located on each side of the motor you will have to take the motor off and you will see them at the back of the motor undo the 2 screws on each one and take out the carbons should be 25m long and shinny and spring in and out freely I can supply new ones if you need them
Unfortunately the manual link won't help on this problem, it doesn't give the answer. However if you remove the rear panel ( plastic and two screws ) where the waste hose comes out, the motor will be seen on the left, the pump is on the right at the bottom corner. Hope this helps, I am unable to go further as I don't know the problem.
If the machine didnt finish the cycle due to the pump being clogged the door will remained locked also if the lock mechanism went bad, the machine will stay locked. Remove the top of the machine by taking the screws from the top back out. Once removed look down the right hand side and you'll see the lock mechanism, usually with a plastic tab you pull to manually release the lock.
Your bearings have broken up in the drum. This is a very difficult DIY fix since it involves stripping the front from the machine, taking out the drup assembly, splitting it, knocking the centre spindle free and then knocking out the machine pressed bearings and replacing them.
It CAN be done by an ameture. I do it occasionally when I am repairing machines and I constantly moan about the fact that I really need to build or buy a tool to knock the bearing out. Despite the fact that the new bearings will cost about £20 ($30) ish, this is a nightmare job. Your local repair man will probably come and fit a refurbished drum for you (Then take yours away and refurbish that for his stock when he has time).
If you have never done anything like this, my best advice is that this is NOT the time to start!
Get a quote, then decide if you want the machine repaired, or to go buy a new one I'm afraid
E15 means that it is not draining fast enough. As well as checking the outlet pipes, check the filter leading to the pump. Disconnect the power and pipe. If possible take outside because there will be a residual amount of water. Remove the back panel, then disconnect the locking rings holding the tubes on. Your main target should be the big downflow rubber tube from the drum, in here is a plastic filter. In mine I found a child's sock... plus buttons...plus slime. Problem solved.
Washers have to be balanced. Some have balance adjusters either inside the dryer as explianed above or on the bottom to level the washer. try to balance it by turning the bolts slightly or the bottom portion of the washer to level it. Or else they want to shake apart. Also by distributing the clothes evenly so it won';t be all to one side can help. do not tighten the screws all the way. Just tighten them to the point of getting the right balance.