Question about OCE 3140 Copier

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BROKEN NYLON COG. OCE 3012

NYLON MUTI TOOTHED COG WHICH FITS ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE (PAPER EXIT END) OF THE HEATED ROLLER. THE HEATED ROLLER IS SITUATED IN THE TOP PART OF THE MOVABLE ORANGE COVER.
ARE YOU ABLE TO SUPPLY THIS PART, PLEASE?
MY PHONE NUMBER IS 01827 713422

KIND REGARDS, JOHN WIGHTMAN

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  • spilly334 May 02, 2009

    i too have the broken cog on the fixing unit of the 3012 - any site providing spares would be useful

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  • 19 Answers

Copier parts are only obtainable through copier service technicians. please call it in for service and a tech will supply the part for you. if you do not have a service contract you will have to pay for service and the part needed.

Posted on Jul 11, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Erro code e02 in toshiba estudio 181


hello
dear you have to verify all the exit sensor related
1. do u have look on fuser unit drive gears.
2. is the exit rollers are good some time exit roller got damaged they don't hold hold paper to run out from machine.
3. do u have clean the exit sensor.
4. do you have verify that the exit sensor actuator is free to operate the sensor.
5. some time exit sensor actuator broken.

Aug 28, 2014 | Office Equipment & Supplies

2 Answers

Oce plotwave 300


This error will be caused by a jamb inside the cutter assembly of the lower roller drawer. Remove the two black Torx screws at the left and right sides inside the lower paper drawer. Next remove the galvanized cover. You should then be able to see the edge of the paper. Grasp it firmly with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull straight up and out. Clear your errors and commence printing.

May 03, 2013 | Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

My Toshiba 1360 is jamming every other sheet at the exit from the heated roller. It seems that the paper is curving down slightly and catching on the ribs before the paper exit sensor switch. The switch...


At the exit of the printer, there is the fuser unit (heating roller, which heats the paper to fuse the toner on to the paper. The fuser (heater) is covered with the Teflon sheet Sleeve. So that the paper is never directly in contact with the heater and heat is transferred through Teflon sleeve.
I have noticed Paper Jam at the outer paper bin in case of damaged Teflon sleeve. A very clear indication of broken Teflon is that there is a loud cracking noise, when the printer initializes (printer power on) or while printing a page. Secondly, the toner fails to fuse properly to the paper and gets erased when rubbed. You may use a torch to inspect it as well. Secondly, inspect the paper path for any obstructions. There may be a torn piece of paper. Inspect the gears and roller from the input tray to the paper exit point and look for any stuck roller.
So, it is recommended that make sure that the Teflon Sleeve is OK and there is no obstruction in the paper exit path.

Hope it helps! Good Luck! Thanks for using Fixya!
CreativeTECH

Jun 14, 2011 | Toshiba 1360 Black and White Copier

2 Answers

Bissell proheat turbo 2x upright cleaner -how do I reassmeble?



Yeah, it’s annoying that the manual doesn’t give more detailed instructions and drawings to help with this, because you do have to take the roller assembly apart sometimes to clean built-up carpet lint off the unit properly. If you don’t do this, I’d expect you’d have more problems.

I have a different model number Bissell Proheat than yours. Yours may have different parts or go together differently than mine, but I'll tell you how I do it on mine and you can try my way out and see if it helps you.

(In all cases where I use left vs. right or front vs. back, as when these terms are used with a car, I am facing the front of the Bissell. I am NOT behind the Bissell, where I would stand when cleaning carpet with it.)


Here's how I put it together. This takes much longer to describe than to do, once you figure out where everything goes and you get the hang of doing it!

Attach the left arm with the two silver rods (ONLY attach the left arm here-- leave the corresponding right arm, which looks like the left arm except it has no silver rods, off the bottom unit of the Bissell, for now) to the left side of the Bissell, with a silver screw with a built-in washer. The screw hole is on the back end of the arm and the arm dips down towards the front of the Bissell and holds the two brushes in position so that they can turn without striking the top of the underside of the Bissell or dragging on the floor.

Put a small silver washer on each long, silver metal post, where the roller brushes will go, and slide it all the way to the left.

Put the larger rubber belt around both metal posts, about halfway to two-thirds of the way down the metal posts.

Slide the brushes halfway down the metal posts and attach the larger rubber belt to the cog wheel on the left side of each roller brush. Then slide both roller brushes with the large rubber belt attached all the way to the left so that the cog wheels are against the inside of the left arm. As you move the roller brushes almost all the way to the left, you may be blocked from reaching the end until you carefully work the rubber belt around a plastic flange on the inside of the left arm, but do this and be sure the roller brushes are up against the inside of the left arm. Make sure the rubber belt is still on each of the cog wheels when the roller brushes are pushed all the way left. If you turn one roller brush, the other should turn, too, because of the belt attached to both cog wheels.

Put the small belt around the small cog wheel on the bottom unit of the Bissell behind the right end of the back roller brush, and also around the cog wheel on the right end of the back roller brush. (The right cog wheel on the front roller brush is the only one of five cog wheels without a belt, when everything is assembled correctly.)

Put a small silver washer on the right end of the silver rod passing through the back roller brush.

NOW attach the right arm, using a silver screw with a washer, to the middle screw hole on the right side of the bottom unit of the Bissell. The right arm should mirror the left arm, so that the two arms hold both roller brushes in position on the right side and straight across the bottom unit of the Bissell. It is normal for the roller brushes and arms to be able to flex up and down a bit, when everything is put together correctly. The built-in washers on the silver screws which attach the arms keep the arms and roller brushes in the generally correct position but allow them to flex.

Now using your fingers you should be able to slowly spin the roller brushes without the brushes contacting the top of the bottom unit of the Bissell and without dragging too low against the floor. Check one more time and be sure the belts are positioned correctly around four of the five cog wheels.

If everything seems right, attach the two side covers. These are not interchangeable; the left cover only fits on the left. The short black screw goes in the back screw hole, and the long black screw goes in front.

Then attach the front cover. It's important to be careful that the hooks on the front cover are inside the side cover holes designed to hold the hooks before trying to tighten the last screw through the tab on top of the front cover. If you aren't careful about this, it's easy for the front cover to be out of position or to break its tab.

Try powering up the Bissell and see if the rollers spin correctly. Remember that the handle must not be locked upright and the trigger must be depressed with the Bissell turned on before the roller brushes will spin. (Sometimes people complain that nothing happens with the unit turned on and the trigger depressed when the only problem is that the handle is in the locked upright position.)

Good luck!

May 31, 2009 | Bissell 1699 ProHeat Clear View Upright...

1 Answer

13 Paper Jam - but there is no paper inside!


I have a long solution (possibly) to your issue:

Error 13 Paper Jam
  • Paper jams can occur in 3 places: Entry, registration and exit.
  • If the paper isn't picking up out of the paper tray, visually inspect the pickup roller. If it looks shiny, replace it. You should also replace the separation pad as they work together. On the 4L/4P/5P/6P the pickup roller has a plastic shaft that breaks. You'll have to replace the whole pickup assembly. This requires major disassembly of the printer. Check our printer repair kits for your model printer. If you don't see it listed, email us.
  • If you have an HP 4/4+/5 with an optional 500 sheet feeder that's jamming, check the balance knob adjustment. Center it with a full **** of paper for proper operation.
  • If the paper is jamming at registration or anywhere between pickup and exit it could be a number of things. Check the paper path for torn bits of paper or label residue. On the II/III series, remove the metal registration guide plate (2 screws) and check underneath it. If the pickup rollers are moderately worn, the paper will stop just short of the registration roller. On the 4L/4P/5P/6P remove the screw holding the oblique roller assembly (Inside front of printer) and pull out and inspect the assembly and the area under it. On the HP 4/4+/5 pivot up the metal plate and check underneath it. Check the roller assembly on the left side for torn scraps of paper (a flashlight or torch is necessary).
  • Make sure paper cassettes are firmly seated, corner tabs aren't bent. Some trays have lifting springs that could pop out if tray has been dropped.
  • On HP IIP/IIP+/IIIP printers if the paper scrunches up at the toner cartridge you'll need our Inside Accordion Jam Repair Kit.
  • Check your software settings in the program you are attempting to print from. Do you have the correct paper size specified? If you have a different paper size than what is in the tray, you'll get a paper jam.
  • Exit jams are frequently caused by exit sensors. These sensors are typically mounted on the fuser assembly or adjacent to it. They are plastic arms that block and unblock an optical sensor. The arms can get stuck or knocked out of place when clearing paper jams. The optical sensors can also get dirt blocking the photo cell. Clean the sensor and check for free movement and proper installation of the sensor arms.
  • On HP II/III series exit jams are mostly caused by worn gears. The best way to troubleshoot this is to defeat the door interlock (see door interlock photo on troubleshooting page). Press down on the arm on the top right of the fuser. Initiate a test page. While holding down the arm, press one of the metal cartridge detect switches just below the door interlock. Watch the movement of the gears. You will get a 51 error because the door is open. Recycle power to get rid of error. There is an arm gear on the lower right of the fuser that can shed teeth. There is also a 14 tooth gear below the large gear on top of the fuser. You can also manually rotate the large gear and check for binding or crunching. If that happens, then replace the 14 tooth gear. On the door, there are some delivery coupler gears that mate with the fuser and drive the exit roller. Check the gears for excessive wear. Replace if necessary. If the paper gets almost all the way out and jams, replace the exit roller or the exit roller assembly. If the error occurs after fuser replacement, check and see if the connector on the left of the fuser is properly mated with the one in the printer.
  • On HP IIP/IIP+/IIIP printers if the paper has accordion folds on the bottom and jams on exit, order our Top Output Accordion Jam Repair Kit.
  • On HP 4/4+/5 printers the most common cause of exit jams is the exit assembly. Order our 4/4+/5 Exit Jam Repair Kit. Exit jams in the fuser can be caused by a broken fuser drive gear or a broken gear on the fuser. Remove the fuser and check the gear inside the printer for broken teeth. Manually turn the gears on the fuser and check for smooth operation. Check the paper exit sensor arm for proper mounting and free movement.
  • Check to make sure the rear door is closed on the printer. Open doors can cause 13 paper jam indications.
  • On the 5L/6L check the registration sensor arm below the pickup roller. Also check the exit sensor arm (bottom center of the fuser). These arms frequently get stuck or dislodged clearing paper jams. On these printers, if you are experiencing frequent paper jams, order our 5L/6L Multi-Sheet/No Feed Repair Kit
All this comes from:

http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/reference/errorcodes/hp

Good luck with it, I love the HP LaserJet 4 series of printers. I used to warm my coffee on the top of the fuser when I was doing large print jobs :-)

If this information helps, please give me a rating, thanks!

OpenSource13

Apr 07, 2009 | HP LaserJet 4 plus Printer

1 Answer

Paper feeder not working


If you remove the top cover and look on the left side of the printer, you will see a set of 3 small cogs in line with each other. These drive the very last set of eject rollers. One of these is usually either broken or missing completely when the paper will not fully eject.

Jan 12, 2009 | HP LaserJet 3055 All-In-One Printer

1 Answer

1320n marks along left side of paper


repetitive defects are caused by either a ding on the drum in the toner, a scratch or dirty transfer roller, or scratched or dirty heat roller in the fuser, Last but not least is dirty exit roller. the first step to any print quality defect is to cahnge the toner cartridge. Good Luck!

Aug 04, 2008 | HP LaserJet 1320 Printer

1 Answer

Lexmark x2480


Is it pulling through only on the right?
Or left?
Either way [sounds like] it needs taking apart to put the paper feeder cogs back inline.
To the right would suggest the easier option of the bar which is visible from where the paper exits has dislodged and the cogs sit on the left hand side of it.
As the paper feeds through it's unlikely the other option as those cogs are what feeds the paper through but they are intricate so it can't be ruled out.
Not much fun if you don't like doing mechanical maintenance I guess!

Aug 01, 2008 | Office Equipment & Supplies

1 Answer

Laser jet 4m


There is likely a problem with your fixing unit (also called a Fuser).

This is a device at the exit of the printer that squeezes the paper between a pressure roller and a heat roller. The heat is what "fixes" the toner onto the paper.

Either your paper is being fed crooked, or there is a problem in the fixing unit itself.

Remove your drum/toner cartridge. Look into the empty chamber of the printer and see if you can see any objects or bits of paper. Clean it out as best you can.
If your toner and drum are separate cartridges, separate them and make sure they don't have any bits of paper stuck between them. If they are both contained in one cartridge, then skip that last step.
Remove your paper tray and make sure the tabs are set correctly. There should be a tab at the back to snug tha paper length wise, and one at the side to snug the width. Setting these correctly will help prevent crooked feeding.
If you can see your paper pickup roller just over top of where the tray fits, make sure it is clean and not too badly worn.

Try printing something but turn the printer off about 1/2 way through the print cycle. Open the door and remove the drum. The sheet of paper should be stuck inside the drum. Examine it and see if it was feeding crooked. After examining it, remove it carefully and throw it in the trash. Don't touch the type as it is not fixed and will dirty your hands or clothes.

If the paper in the drum was straight, then there is a problem with your fixing unit. If the paper was crooked, then there is a pickup/feed problem.

Feb 14, 2008 | HP LaserJet 4 plus Printer

3 Answers

Paper feed problem.


I have just removed the panel where the power and USB cable lock into. It's a case of 1 screww from the rear and 2 catchs underneath the printer. From there you should be able to see the mechanism for the roller, a set of small white cogs. below that you should be able to see a very small spring which is acting as the pressure. Mine was still attached but as you say was pulling no pressure on the roller what so ever.

Solution:
Find yourself a large-ish rubber band and slip the band over the whole mechansim. Best way is through the paper feed slot, slip it over the roller and then move it through to the area where you removed the panel. Position the rubber band as far down the cogs as possible, don't worry the cog casing prevents the band interfearing with the cogs. Now pull the band reasonably tight and with the other hand test the pressure of the roller. Adjust till you feel OK with it. Now put the panel back in with the end of the rubber band trapped and poking out from the panel behind the printer, holding it in place. Redo the screw and give it a try.

My first attempt found it a bit too restrictive and feeded to sheets at a time but adjusted it once and its back to normal. I know its a bodge but its a cheap one and it uses a rubber band, just how I fixed my Punto's windscreen wiper, £120 part or a rubber band once a month... Mmmm...

Jan 22, 2008 | Lexmark P4350 All-In-One InkJet Printer

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