I'm not sure if Z4i is the same as the X-530. But the picture you have is a X-530 Woofer. To take apart the X-530 woofer case, quite simple.
It's a pretty simple disassemble once you get the Grill off the front. Thats the only trick to it. The really annoying part is all of the glue they put... i just took my apart. I have to get rid of a **** load of glue just to get to the FUSE! I guess they didnt want the fuse to fall out? ... they really could have saved some glue.
Hope this helps.
1) take off the grill, there are i think about four tabs that go into the case. You should be able to pry the grill off without breaking anything.
2)unscrew the black grill holder, it was what holds the grill on.
3)unscrew the speaker
4) unplug the two - and + from the speaker
-from this point on... its pretty obvious...
to take off the main board,
Unscrew all of the screws on the back of it, the outside. All of the ones on the outside of the main board. Not the inside ones, you can see a difference in the screws. You could take them all off, your going to have to take those off if you want to take the heat shield(transfer case) off. You have to take this off in order to get to the componets, like the Fuse and so forth.
to take the air intake tube off, unscrew the four screws holding it on from the inside.
the air inverter thingy, you have to unscrew the screws on the bottom of the case, your going to need some piliers or a socket.
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Normally the sub woofer is driven by a separate amplifier, unless the main speakers, such as in a pro audio setup have a special LF out set of terminals on the back of the speaker cabinet, in this case there is a hi powered low pass filter, fitted in side the speaker to route the LF energy to a sub woofer. Else you need a line lever LF signal spliter and a power amplifier to connect a sub woofer.
Yes you can. cut the left speaker lead and splice a wire from it to your sub woofer. If its a powered woofer you may have too much gain going in, You don't say what kind of sub it is or weather or not its a "powered" unit. If its a powered woofer (built in amp) you should take the output directly from the computer output (buy a 1/8 in male to 2 1/8 in female connector, send one output to your original speakers and the left side of the second output to the sub woofer. you can usually adjust the level of the sub (if powered) with a control on the unit. if you need more help, contact me but please tell me more about what you have.
You have damaged the power supply unit and this would have caused some failures on the power supply and sometimes on the drivers.
So first of all please check the power supply unit, alternatively the DC power required can be supplied by incorporating a new power supply with the same rating but working on 220volt.
repairing the 110 volt supply is no good as you will need again a step down to work , so I suggest this change.
Look for the biggest semi-conductor on the PC board, that will be the power amp that does all the work, or perhaps in your case not! If it is an IC replace it! You can test transistors with an Ohm meter. Look for shorts in the case of those.
Any powered sub-woofer will work with it. Check the back of the Technics, make sure there is an RCA output labeled "Sub-woofer" or "Woofer" or "Sub". If so, you can get any brand of powered sub woofer and it will work. A powered sub-woofer is one with an amplifier for the sub built into the box and you will need to plug it into an A/C outlet as well. The only exceptions to what will work with this unit is to make sure you are not buying a sub-woofer that is made to only work with the companion unit it is originally sold with. Many Panasonic and JVC sub woofers are like this. Just look for a sub-woofer that is not part of any system. Velodyne makes some really great sub-woofers that would work nice with yours, but they can be a little expensive, but they are very good.
If your Technics has no RCA output for the sub-woofer, you will need to make sure that whatever powered sub-woofer you buy has a speaker level input for it. Most powered sub-woofers have this feature, so that you may just run the front speaker outputs of the receiver into the subwoofer and then the sub-woofer will have a set of speaker outputs right below the speaker inputs so you can still have your front speakers connected to that and not loose anything from your system.
I hope I have explained this in a manner you will understand easy, if not just post whatever questions you may have right on this thread and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
It would also be appreciated if you could rate this solution if you no longer need any help from me. If you do require more help, please wait to rate this until we are finished. That way I do not get an undeserved bad rating when we have not even finished our communications. By the way, A "Thanks for trying" and "Helpful" rating are really not good, they always end up lowering my overall score.
The problem are worsen that before. It is wisely to replace both left and right amplifier
IC, but make ensure that the power supply feed a good amount of voltage to amplifier,
Also a strong good signal. Be sure to measure it.
Sounds like you have burnt out something (as you probably already know LOL) but maybe you just over heated some wires that couldn't take the Amperage. If this is the case, you MUST find out:
Why there was so much Amperage there at the time
Why didn't the Fuse blow? (perhaps too high an Amperage fuse for the Unit?) and
Why could your unit not handle the Power? (perhaps not Rated for that Power Output?).
Note: Watts and Amperage are not Musical terms, they are Electrical terms. So an Amplifier Increases the output Current to a maximum level designated in various ways as PMP (common but misleading) RMS (the International Standard) and DIN (the mainly European standard). The receiving unit (in this case your sub woofer is designed to handle a maximum level of Current input and this is usually desribed (again misleadingly) as simply Wattage. The common factor here is that both your Amplifier and Sub woofer are probably using the PMP rating.
If this is the case then you can easily determine if the 2 units are compatible using their "Wattages". For instance, a 275 Watt amplifier is too much at HIGH outputs (volume) for a set of speakers Rated at 160 Watts (they will "blow") but will work fine at Lower volumes because the Amp is putting out less Power at Lower volumes and is therefore probably below the Speakers Maximum input range.
Conversely, it is OK if the speakers are Rated for higher inputs than your Amplifier can put out. For example, a 175 Watt amplifier is fine with speakers Rated for 240 Watts because it can never produce enough power to "blow" the speakers.
Just putting in heavier wires will almost certainly bow up the sub woofer if the initial problem is not solved.
Take it to a HI FI shop and get them to look at it. If they simply say "Can't repair these, buy this one", try another shop.