Question about Reddy R70ET Utility Heater

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Reddy R55 Wont Ignite

Fan Cuts on
Heating element turns red
But Wont Ignite
There are 2 yellow screws on the back that might need adjusting but dont know what they do
Also I use diesel not kerosene

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Fuel not a problem. Wrong pressure definitely a problem. Click here for instructions on setting the pressure.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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I have a Reddy Heater Model R55 and I cannot get the fuel pressure to adjust down to the proper spec. of 3.4 P/S.I. It is at 4 P.S.I. and goes higher when I adjust the screw, but will not drop below 4...


Check your output filter that is inside the pump body and see if it is real black/dirty. This black color is the carbon powder from your carbon vanes that is inside the air pump. If real dirty, this will cause back pressure to the pump. Other words it is not venting properly with a clogged filter. Also check your steel ball and spring on the adjustment screw. Sometimes the ball gets stuck and this will also cause this problem.

Jan 20, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

R55 model. runs for a while & cuts off. [1]


Dials? I assume you are speaking of the air pump adjustment screws.

How to set the pump pressure

Nov 20, 2010 | Reddy R60A Utility Heater

3 Answers

Baumatic oven not heating up. Grill and fan fine.


if it is the b180, the answer (having just fixed this) is really simple.

The coily bit is the oven element - it will have gone. A new one from eBay cost me about 6 quid.
[WHEN IT ARRIVES !]

Turn the power off.
Inside the oven use a philips screwdriver to remove the 4 screws (KEEP THEM !)
You will see a coily thing and a fan.


You unscrew 3 more screws (2 on the left and 1 on the right).
(KEEP THESE TOO!)

now ... bit tricky, have the new one inside the oven and take each wire off one at a time and put it on the new element.

Screw it back on but DONT put the last panel back in.

Turn the oven on maximum for about 2 minutes and see it glow red.

Turn the oven off. Make a cup of tea and have a couple of biscuits while admiring how good you are and waiting for the element to cool down!!!

Put the final panel back in place. Whole thing (including a cup of tea) takes about half an hour.

Jan 27, 2010 | Baumatic B180 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

I need to replace the bottom element in my oven


You need to check the heating element for continuity and the thermistor for continuity. Use an ohmmeter or multimeter to check. The element should not be any reading over 24 ohms for a 220-250V supply and not over 12 ohms for a 110Vac supply. A good tip is to take digital photos of the job before starting on removing and testing wiring etc so that you can refer back to it if you have to replace any items or forget which wires attach to any particular terminal etc.

To test and replace the element:

  1. Turning off the mains power to the oven.
  2. Remove the lower back panel. Fan assisted ovens will have a coiled 2 or 3 turn element around the outside of the fan.
  3. Remove the 2 power connectors to the grill element if one is fitted.
  4. Check the element resistance reading on the main oven heating element and not the grill element.
  5. The thermistor or fusible link is located on top of the oven cavity if fitted and has two wires attached to it - most likely to be red and black or both white wires.
  6. Remove the earthing wire to the main oven heating element screw terminal.
  7. Unscrew the grill element securing screws(s) - there will be 1 or 2 depending on the element fitted to your oven. Do this from inside the oven cavity itself.
  8. Refit the new element (make sure it has the same mounting screw holes as the one you want to remove) then secure it.
  9. Reconnect the earthing wire to the element screw post.
  10. Make sure that neither of the element tags touch the chassis - check with a continuity tester of ohm meter and adjust if required.
  11. Reconnect the power cables to the main oven heating element.
  12. Reconnect the power cables to the grill element if one is fitted.
  13. Reconnect the power and check that the element works correctly.
  14. Disconnect the mains power again and replace the rear panel(s).
  15. Reconnect the mains power and recheck that the oven, and if appropriate the grill, functions correctly.

Nov 14, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Just quit drying clothes


If it does not dry them all then the element is a good guess or the thermostat.

If it dries them but not all the way check that the moisture sensor is not turned down too far.

The following should help you.

How to Repair Heating Elements A dryer sometimes won't heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.

Troubleshooting the Gas Heater

In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.

To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.

Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can't adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.
how-to-repair-a-dryer-2.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater, controlled by an air shutter.
Electric dryers have self-contained electric heating elements.

Servicing the Electric Heating Elements

Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

The heater may also malfunction because it's grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here's how to replace the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position.

Servicing the Fan

The most common dryer fan problem is lint clogging the air passages through the heater and through the dryer drum. To clear a clogged air passage, remove the back service panel of the dryer and back out the screws holding the air duct in place. Then reach into the duct and remove all the lint and dirt possible. Reassemble the parts.

Also inspect the fan for a loose screw connection where the motor shaft is set on the dryer's drum. Remove the back service panel, tighten the screw, and replace the panel.

May 09, 2009 | Maytag Neptune MDE5500AY Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Reddy Heater R55 concerns


They are grounds, and should have two screws on the burner tray to hold it from moving. On my heater this is where the grounds get attached. It gives the igniter a dedicated direct ground.

Jan 10, 2009 | Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

1 Answer

Unburned fuel coming from front nose cone when heating


in the back of the heater by the filter there should be a screw if yours is like mine screwing it in adds fuel backing it out gives you less make sure filtre is clean because if it isnt it will make it **** more fuel i took the cover off watched the ignitors and adjusted the fuel until it stoped making the jet sound and that is where i left it seems to be burning good there give it a try hope i helped

Jan 04, 2009 | Reddy Heater-30-55,000 BTU Variable

1 Answer

The heating element turns off after about 2 mins


the most common cause for thermostat problems is lint build up. in the exhaoust duct, in the vent hood on the outside wall, in the squirrel cage fan

there is not enough air moving past the heater element to keep it within normal operating ranges, the thermostat cuts it out.
when the reduced air flow cools the element below max, it cuts in, overheats the thermostat and cuts out, for the whole timer cycle.
clear the exhaoust ducting, fan and vent hood of all lint
and try again

If there is too much overheating a firesafe device thermal cutout will trip and does not reset

locate the thermal cutout, a small device that looks like this 39ec5e4.jpg or this 9756eee.jpg screwed to the exhaust duct or fan housing. not resettable, test with ohmmmeter or battery and bulb,
the local parts guy will have the part, there are only a few for all the different dryer models
probably 75% chance of fix

Apr 20, 2008 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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