Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

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Timer Light will not go off

I have a 52" Mitsubishi DLP. I replaced the lamp and now the timer light "green" light will not go off (stays on for hours) and the tv will not come on. I can hear the fan going but there is no picture. I have had nothing but problems with this tv when I change the lamp. Is there a way to get the light to og off and also how do I get a picture to come up? Please help, I don't want to get an $800 repair bill in this economy.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Blinking Green Light on Mitsubishi DLP 52525

No problem, do self diagnosis test, read threads here or goto ctechnicians.com get error codes first and get back with me.

Posted on Dec 17, 2007

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Mitsubishi dlp tv green timer light blinking

timer light keeps blinking tv does not turn on

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • 133 Answers

SOURCE: wd 52525 52 in dlp tv screen needs cleaned

all you have to do is, take the 12 screws out from around the screen, from the back, there are also like 4 of them on the front, but usually , you can just lean the screen out far enough to use a swifer sweeper in there, and the dust isnt going to be on the back of the screen, it will be on the projecter, do the screen while the tv is on, then you will realy see the dust on the projecter

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: Blinking Green Light on Mitsubishi DLP 52525

Even if you replace the capacitors already mentioned in this
thread, you may still suffer from the Green LED of Death. Here is how Bronson279 helped me resolve the
problem. But note that it involves
adding a switch to your tv set and requires a bit of soldering ability and the
willingness to void your warranty. BUT
you can save big $$$$ on sending the set out for repair.

Here is my solution-
After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors
from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance
values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105
degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in
after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up
normally. But when I had to unplug the
set to fully re assemble it, it came back.




The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and
the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish
communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each
thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot
process over again.





You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser
Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart
replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to
disassemble the whole thing again.) On
the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis
there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”.
It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an
inch from the connector. Solder four 12
inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and
one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder
connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but
make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the
connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch
(one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside
terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to
the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange
across from orange) See the diagram below.
The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and
break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering
the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you
can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.

























45186c7.jpg






Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires
outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to
get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV.
You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I
drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you
can do it however you like)





Here is how to use it-
From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires
are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60
secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so
the wires are connecting. Hit the power
button. The TV should turn on- your done!
Yeah!

From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out,
state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip
the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv,
wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on
normally… Again you are done…

Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to
flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking
LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get
it to work. If you tried turning on the
TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure
above.

Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the
repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair
Manual –full This is nice to have
because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the
connector placements

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: I have a mitsubishi dlp 52

replace lamp!

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

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