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Relay turning on then off, on then off

I have a model GSL25JFRF. There is a panel in the rear of the refrig where a circuit board is mounted. The board is approx 4.5" x 8". The board has relays mounted on it and one relay keeps turning on, then off (much like a blinker on your car). I unpluged, then replugged the connector on the top right side and the clicking noise stopped for a while. Is this an indicator of a maintenance need, or could this be just a malfunction?

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Could be a compressor relay.  You don't say anything about whether the unit is working or not.

Posted on Nov 20, 2008

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Ge refrigerator


HI. This will be the cause of a defective PCB. This circuit board is the main controller of your unit. the clicking is the result of a failed relay assembly. these relays are mounted on the board, itself. The board should be mounted just behind an access panel, on the rear of the unit, slightly above or near the compressor assembly. Kindly have this PCB replaced, asap.

The PCB is , indeed, the culprit in this situation. Once the PCB is exposed, you should visually inspect for brownish discoloring, and relay trauma. Possible power surge may have caused the board to short.

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your motherboard in the lower rear area of the unit is bad,if you have recently replaced burned out lights in the refrige when these lights burn out it causes a surge on this control board and burns the circuit trace,hint:if you hear a rapid clicking noise in this area of the motherboard its a relay trying to latch,a bad board wont let it latch and the lights will dimly flash in the refrige compartment and the digital read-out may be out too

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there is one of 2 possibilities,either the damper door between the refrige and freezer compartments is frozen shut due to ice build up and needs thaw out,the cold control that controls this door is bad or the mother board on the lower rear apron behind a cover panel is defective,if you have had light bulbs go out in the refrige compartment and now the refrige part does not cool and the temp light readout is dark this is a good indication its the motherboard,also if the lights are strobing and you can hear a relay clicking

Jan 17, 2010 | Refrigerators

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Model HSB03 stopped working after power outage. Is still like new would like to keep ....any suggestions?


HI. What generally happens during a power outage, will be a serious surge. The surge will, essentially, destroy the Main PCB. Without proper PCB function, the unit will not operate. All power is controlled by the main PCB. It routes power to the compressor and fans, as well. You can, visibly, inspect the affected part by pulling the access panel on the rear side of the unit. It will be mounted on a bracket, near the compressor assembly, or just in the middle section of the rear side of your unit. Inspect the Circuits and relays that are mounted on the PCB. If burn marks are present, or a brownish discoloration is sited on the circuit board, simply replace the PCB.

NOTE_ PCB location may vary in your model Generally, they are located just behind a access panel, on the rear side of the unit. Some may be mounted in close proximity of the compressor platform.

Jan 14, 2010 | Haier Refrigerators

1 Answer

Refrigrator is clicking alot, it is not cooling and i could smell something burning but did not last


You have a burnt overload/relay , mounted on the compressor , with 2 or 3 wires going to it . When you go to get the part , take your model number with you . You will have to pull the refrig out , and remove the rear panel , to access these pieces . They are easily replaceable .

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If you (or someone you know) is competent at soldering, you may be able to fix this without a pro (nor replacement part).

At the rear of the fridge is a metal panel at top left behind which is the motherboard. If the problem is intermittent - e.g., slamming the door yields a loud 'click' and you hear the compressor start, chances are great that the problem is a bad solder joint on the relay that switches between defrost and compressor modes. (It seems to default to defrost mode.)
Unplug the fridge!
Remove the metal panel. (1/4" hex wrench or socket set req'd.)
Gently and carefully (wiggle and) remove all molex connectors from the circuit board. (There'll be 5 or more, possibly depending upon how many extra features your fridge model has.)
Use a suitable tool - needle nose pliers or strong tweezers - to squeeze the plastic stand-offs with which the board is mounted to the fridge.
Remove the board from the fridge. (Note: it may be easier to remove the connectors at the right of the board AFTER the board is lifted off the stand-offs.)
Look at the solder-side of the board.
You'll almost certainly see charring around a particular solder joint that belongs to the large, sort of T-shaped relay (black box) on the board.
Clean up the carbon with alcohol.
Scrape away some of the (green) coating on the copper trace around the pin that comes throught the board from the relay. (This will entail removing some of the acrylic clear coat with which the board has been sealed.)
Resolder the joint.
Clean up any flux residue.
Reinstall the board - right-hand connectors first, if necessary (i.e., before mounting the board on the stand-offs).
Replace the metal panel.
Plug the fridge in.
Listen to that relaxing buzz of relief...(and $100-$200 savings).
CAUTIONS: 1) Make sure you NOTE and/or remember which connector goes where on the board BEFORE you remove it.

Oct 06, 2009 | GE GTS22KBM Top Freezer Refrigerator

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GTS22KBMBRWW GE refrigerator; the compresser does not come on, no indicator light for freezer compartment. Indicator light on for the bottom section.


Due to the compressor not coming on , this is an indication of a bad main control board . Part number WR55X10942 . Occasionally , if you remove the board ( behind the 8"X10" panel , on the back of the refrig ) , and look on the soldered side , just behind the small black boxes , you'll see a spot , which has become unsoldered . You can re-solder this spot , and the compressor will run . If you do not see the spot , then the module is bad , and the control board will have to be replaced .

Sep 27, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

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GE Model GSS25TGNB CC died


If you do not see frost on the inside rear wall of the freezer , Poll the refrig out from the wall , and remove the back panel covering the compressor . If the compressor is not running , Remove the 8" X 10 " panel , just above the large panel first removed . Unplug the refrig . Remove the control board , and on the other side of the board ( soldered side ) , look just behind the small black boxes ( located on the other side ) and look for a joint which has become unsoldered . Resolder this spot and reinstall the board . Plug the refrig back in , and see if compressor starts . OR , you can replace the control board pt # WR55X10656 .

Sep 19, 2009 | GE Profile Arctica Stainless Steel Top...

1 Answer

Gts22kbmbrww was working fine yesterday today freezer defrosted and referigerator wont chill down stays @ 50 degrees


If you (or someone you know is competent at soldering, you may be able to fix this without a pro (nor replacement part).

At the rear of the fridge is a metal panel at top left behind which is the motherboard. If the problem is intermittent - e.g., slamming the door yields a loud 'click' and you hear the compressor start, chances are great that the problem is a bad solder joint on the relay that switches between defrost and compressor modes. (It seems to default to defrost mode.)
Unplug the fridge!
Remove the metal panel. (1/4" hex wrench or socket set req'd.)
Gently and carefully (wiggle and) remove all molex connectors from the circuit board. (There'll be 5 or more, possibly depending upon how many extra features your fridge model has.)
Use a suitable tool - needle nose pliers or strong tweezers - to squeeze the plastic stand-offs with which the board is mounted to the fridge.
Remove the board from the fridge. (Note: it may be easier to remove the connectors at the right of the board AFTER the board is lifted off the stand-offs.)
Look at the solder-side of the board.
You'll almost certainly see charring around a particular solder joint that belongs to the large, sort of T-shaped relay (black box) on the board.
Clean up the carbon with alcohol.
Scrape away some of the (green) coating on the copper trace around the pin that comes throught the board from the relay. (This will entail removing some of the acrylic clear coat with which the board has been sealed.)
Resolder the joint.
Clean up any flux residue.
Reinstall the board - right-hand connectors first, if necessary (i.e., before mounting the board on the stand-offs).
Replace the metal panel.
Plug the fridge in.
Listen to that relaxing buzz of relief...(and $100-$200 savings).
CAUTIONS: 1) Make sure you NOTE and/or remember which connector goes where on the board BEFORE you remove it.
2) If the room is dry enough that you're getting static shocks when you walk across the carpet, you might want to make sure you discharge yourself before you handle the circuit board.

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I have a GE profile refreigerator model PTS25LBMARWW. It started to defrost in the freezer. I have working knowledge of refrigerators as I completed A/C and refrig. trade school 20 years ago. here is the...


Make a insulated jumper wire.
Remove the circuit board panel.
Jump the line in side with the compressor terminal.
On the bottom of the control board you will see a molex connector with 3 wires. That is where you will see the 3 terminals.
If the compressor and fan motor come on after the jump.
Replace the control board.

Mar 10, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

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