I have a model GSL25JFRF.There is a panel in the rear of the refrig where a circuit board is mounted.The board is approx 4.5" x 8".The board has relays mounted on it and one relay keeps turning on, then off (much like a blinker on your car).I unpluged, then replugged the connector on the top right side and the clicking noise stopped for a while.Is this an indicator of a maintenance need, or could this be just a malfunction?
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Hello. You didn't provide the model number for your unit so my help is limited. From what you're describing, it sounds like the infinite switch(fancy name for burner control) has begun to fail(in a short-circuit type of manner). Be advised though, depending on the model of unit you have(such as the glass touch-panel type), the problem could be a damaged circuit board, either the main board or the user interface board. Also, if so equipped, there can be a relay board that EVERYTHING passes through which can have partial failures and produce the symptom you have. This relay board is typically mounted on the rear wall of the oven, under the rear cover. Did you have a power outage recently(such as 3-4 weeks prior to this happening)? Outages are notorious for damaging electronic controls--usually after that time period, the damaged chips start to fail, causing all sorts of problems. If I have the model number, I can provide part numbers and possibly, exploded diagrams.
Re: clean light blinks seven times on Kenmore Dishwasher model # 66516034401
After reading online and studying the parts diagram/list (included with
paperwork that came with washer) and troubleshooting guide/wiring
schematic (located under the bottom front kick panel) I determined it
could only be 5 things, all easy to look at and check when you pull out
the dishwasher (remove racks first and cut power via the circuit
They are heating element, wiring check for burn marks/melting), high
limit thermostat (mounted on bottom of tub against tub, detects if tub
overheats), thermistor (screw in mount near motor, detects process temp
inside dishwasher, and the control panel. Unfortunately, I started
buying and replacing the parts piecemeal (first high limit thermostat,
then thermistor, then heating element, even though it tested good).
Only then did I remove the panel (top 6 screws inside door, no need to
remove the whole door panel) and check the circuit board. After
separating the circuit board from its plastic case that covers the back
of the board, I saw that the back of the board was badly
burned/blackened about the size of a fifty cent piece around the heater
circuit relay (this was not visible from the front). Bingo. I should
have done a comprehensive check first and save $100 on parts that were
probably good. When ordering online, the circuit board part was
changed, perhaps to an improved part if the relay burning out is a
common problem. Good luck.
HI. This will be the cause of a defective PCB. This circuit board is the main controller of your unit. the clicking is the result of a failed relay assembly. these relays are mounted on the board, itself. The board should be mounted just behind an access panel, on the rear of the unit, slightly above or near the compressor assembly. Kindly have this PCB replaced, asap.
The PCB is , indeed, the culprit in this situation. Once the PCB is exposed, you should visually inspect for brownish discoloring, and relay trauma. Possible power surge may have caused the board to short.
your motherboard in the lower rear area of the unit is bad,if you have recently replaced burned out lights in the refrige when these lights burn out it causes a surge on this control board and burns the circuit trace,hint:if you hear a rapid clicking noise in this area of the motherboard its a relay trying to latch,a bad board wont let it latch and the lights will dimly flash in the refrige compartment and the digital read-out may be out too
there is one of 2 possibilities,either the damper door between the refrige and freezer compartments is frozen shut due to ice build up and needs thaw out,the cold control that controls this door is bad or the mother board on the lower rear apron behind a cover panel is defective,if you have had light bulbs go out in the refrige compartment and now the refrige part does not cool and the temp light readout is dark this is a good indication its the motherboard,also if the lights are strobing and you can hear a relay clicking
You have a burnt overload/relay , mounted on the compressor , with 2 or 3 wires going to it . When you go to get the part , take your model number with you . You will have to pull the refrig out , and remove the rear panel , to access these pieces . They are easily replaceable .
If you (or someone you know) is competent at soldering, you may be able to fix this without a pro (nor replacement part). At the rear of the fridge is a metal panel at top left behind which is the motherboard. If the problem is intermittent - e.g., slamming the door yields a loud 'click' and you hear the compressor start, chances are great that the problem is a bad solder joint on the relay that switches between defrost and compressor modes. (It seems to default to defrost mode.) Unplug the fridge! Remove the metal panel. (1/4" hex wrench or socket set req'd.) Gently and carefully (wiggle and) remove all molex connectors from the circuit board. (There'll be 5 or more, possibly depending upon how many extra features your fridge model has.) Use a suitable tool - needle nose pliers or strong tweezers - to squeeze the plastic stand-offs with which the board is mounted to the fridge. Remove the board from the fridge. (Note: it may be easier to remove the connectors at the right of the board AFTER the board is lifted off the stand-offs.) Look at the solder-side of the board. You'll almost certainly see charring around a particular solder joint that belongs to the large, sort of T-shaped relay (black box) on the board. Clean up the carbon with alcohol. Scrape away some of the (green) coating on the copper trace around the pin that comes throught the board from the relay. (This will entail removing some of the acrylic clear coat with which the board has been sealed.) Resolder the joint. Clean up any flux residue. Reinstall the board - right-hand connectors first, if necessary (i.e., before mounting the board on the stand-offs). Replace the metal panel. Plug the fridge in. Listen to that relaxing buzz of relief...(and $100-$200 savings). CAUTIONS: 1) Make sure you NOTE and/or remember which connector goes where on the board BEFORE you remove it.
Due to the compressor not coming on , this is an indication of a bad main control board . Part number WR55X10942 . Occasionally , if you remove the board ( behind the 8"X10" panel , on the back of the refrig ) , and look on the soldered side , just behind the small black boxes , you'll see a spot , which has become unsoldered . You can re-solder this spot , and the compressor will run . If you do not see the spot , then the module is bad , and the control board will have to be replaced .
If you do not see frost on the inside rear wall of the freezer , Poll the refrig out from the wall , and remove the back panel covering the compressor . If the compressor is not running , Remove the 8" X 10 " panel , just above the large panel first removed . Unplug the refrig . Remove the control board , and on the other side of the board ( soldered side ) , look just behind the small black boxes ( located on the other side ) and look for a joint which has become unsoldered . Resolder this spot and reinstall the board . Plug the refrig back in , and see if compressor starts . OR , you can replace the control board pt # WR55X10656 .
I posted this solution on FixYa to help someone who had the same problem, or at least a similar problem. If you remove the slotted panel underneath the bottom of the receiver, you can gain access to the underside of the main circuit board. There are 3 relay units there, they are blue boxes that can be seen if you shine a torch down through the top. I found the solder joints on these relays looked as though they had broken away from the board, there appeared to be a dark ring around the pin of the relay. I re-soldered 4 of these connections, and, so far, that seems to have done the trick. Time will tell. These relay units connect and disconnect the speakers. There is one other relay that is mounted on a seperate board above the main board, that I can't access easily. If this one is also faulty, I will be un-able to fix it, as it would involve removing the entire guts of the receiver. If any of your technical team disagree with my remedy, or can offer any other solution, that would be appreciated. Thanks.