Question about Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer
I have seen/read other postings for this same problem, but mine has a small twist. I get the dreaded F11 fault, but only intermittently. If I unplug/plug in the machine and give it another try, it usually works fine. I may then get several loads without another error, but it always returns. The service tech brochure (located inside the back of the washer in a plastic envelope for those of you that may want yours) is little help. A lot of check this/check that (but for what it doesn't say). I pulled the front lower panel, top, and back to check all these serial wiring connections - seem OK to me. They want you to "check" the CCU, MCU, and Motor - the 3 most expensive parts (electrically) in the machine. So am I supposed to start buying/replacing $200 and $300 parts until I find a fix? It seems that is what they would have you do.
I have also had the F11/DL problem with this machine. One technician came out and told me the following: I was not using HE detergent, the standard detergent was causing too much sudsing and the machine was having to run too long on the rinse cycle, and it was causing the F11 error. So. I got HE detergent, (it took a while to find an environmentally friendly one), but this has not solved the problem. He tried to change the MCU board - the replacement board did not work, so I'm still waiting for a replacement. He did replace the door lock mechanism, but I still get the DL error. My machines are on 3 or 4 inches of concrete, so vibration is a non-issue. I have found a good whack on the side of the machine seems to work. No kidding. Here's what happens: Stupid F11 flashes. I hit the pause/cancel button. It flashes the remaining time on the cycle. I hit the start button. Sometimes that just does it. If it doesn't I give it a whack on the left side of the machine, (if you're facing it), in the middle, about 6 to 8 inches above where the drawer is. Sometimes it's a few whacks, but I can hear a "chu-chunk" sound, which I think may be the door mechanism. Sometimes there's a sound sort of like a fritzy noise first, but then I get the "chu-chunk" sound. My husband has watched me do it, and he just shakes his head. Well, there ya go. Not buying one of these damned things again, though. I don't think it washes that well to tell you the truth. The loads often come out smelly, and have to be rewashed, and the rubber gasket at the door is a pain to keep clean. Any recommendations for a better front loader would be appreciated. Cheers! Phila
Posted on Sep 18, 2007
I once had located a code combination to push on the control panel to clear the F11 code. I cannot locate that again. Can you please give me the combination to reset the machine?
Posted on Sep 16, 2007
I was told by Jays authorized appliance repair in hollywood florida that an F11 is a faulty door lock and that they ordered one for me which will take 5 to 7 days to get and then they will call to schedule service for me. How do I find out if this is really what F11 means? It seems from these others have to say that's not the problem HELP!!! I love my machine but it's only 2 years old and broken
Posted on May 11, 2007
We bought the Sears Kenmore Elite He3t, and after three years it began throwing F11 and DL codes, first on an intermittent basis and eventually on nearly every load. My research showed many people solving this problem with a replacement of the control unit or the relays inside of it. I have a different theory which is that the problem is really due to excessive vibration making the serial/tach connector to the motor intermittent. This forces an error code when the unit is spinning and vibrating. The problem with the engineering and design of these washing machines was that they all vibrate excesssively unless they are sitting on a floor constructed of a ton or more of solid concrete. The vibration eventually makes either the motor serial/tach connector (or possibly one of the five relays in the control unit) intermittent, and the machine begins to throw error codes. My solution was to take three hefty rubber bands and remount the control unit so that it hangs from the three bands inside the washing machine. This requires removing 3 screws on the rear of the lid on the machine with a 7mm wrench, taking the lid off, and prying the control unit from the mounting tangs with a flat blade screwdriver. The rubber bands can be looped through the mounting ears of the control unit and the original steel mounting bracket. No other modification is required, and the relays will not need to be replaced. The DL codes are only the result of the system shutting down with and F11 code and then discovering that the door is already locked in the restart attempt. People often make this problem worse by then yanking the door open and destroying the interlock system. It is a pity that a one-cent connector and the cheap mounting scheme of the control unit is what kills the reliability of this otherwise very nice $1000 washing machine. Have fun.
Posted on Mar 25, 2007
I have a top load washer 4.7 cu and in the middle of the load it started beeping flashing a F and I can not get the wash machine to spine the clothes. Washer is about three months old.
Can you please help me!!!
Posted on Oct 22, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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