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Kenwood Basic M2a blowing the 6a fuses due to a short in one pair of the DAT1521 transistors

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Hello,
I live in Belgium and I like Basic M2A... I have got 4 basic M2A, 1 M1A and 1 M1.
I am electronician and normally can repair it. If I can help you, let me know : herisson_999@hotmail.com.

Best regards,

Jean-François

Posted on Feb 15, 2009

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No power just went out.....


Hello,

  • A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!
    Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).
    If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:
    • Degauss Posistor - very likely.
    • Horizontal output transistor.
    • Power supply regulator if there is one.
    • Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
    • Diode(s) in main bridge
    • Main filter capacitor(s).
    You should be able to eliminate these one by one.
    Unplug the degauss coil as this will show up as a low resistance.
    First, measure across the input to the main power rectifiers - it should not be that low. A reading of only a few ohms may mean a shorted rectifier or two or a shorted Posistor.
  • Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.
  • Some sets use a Posistor for degauss control. This is a little cubical (about 1/2" x 3/4" x 1") component with 3 legs. It includes a line operated heater disk (which often shorts out) and a PTC thermister to control current to the degauss coil. Remove the posistor and try power. If the monitor now works, obtain a replacement but in the meantime you just won't have the automatic degauss.If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.
    • C-E should be high in at least one direction.
    • B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.
    If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.
    If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.
    Of course, not much else will work either.
    If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.
    Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.
    If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.
    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.
  • hope this helpout.....


    Jul 08, 2010 | GE 25GT240 25" TV

    1 Answer

    Wont turn on power light flashes 4 times


    Hello,

  • A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!
    Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).
    If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:
    • Degauss Posistor - very likely.
    • Horizontal output transistor.
    • Power supply regulator if there is one.
    • Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
    • Diode(s) in main bridge
    • Main filter capacitor(s).
    You should be able to eliminate these one by one.
    Unplug the degauss coil as this will show up as a low resistance.
    First, measure across the input to the main power rectifiers - it should not be that low. A reading of only a few ohms may mean a shorted rectifier or two or a shorted Posistor.
  • Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.
  • Some sets use a Posistor for degauss control. This is a little cubical (about 1/2" x 3/4" x 1") component with 3 legs. It includes a line operated heater disk (which often shorts out) and a PTC thermister to control current to the degauss coil. Remove the posistor and try power. If the monitor now works, obtain a replacement but in the meantime you just won't have the automatic degauss.If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.
    • C-E should be high in at least one direction.
    • B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.
    If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.
    If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.
    Of course, not much else will work either.
    If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.
    Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.
    If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.
    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

  • hope this helpout....


    Jul 07, 2010 | Philips Televison & Video

    1 Answer

    It is not coming on


    Hello,

    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

    Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!

    Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).

    If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:

    Degauss Posistor - very likely.
    Horizontal output transistor.
    Power supply regulator if there is one.
    Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
    Diode(s) in main bridge
    Main filter capacitor(s).

    You should be able to eliminate these one by one.

    Unplug the degauss coil as this will show up as a low resistance.

    First, measure across the input to the main power rectifiers - it should not be that low. A reading of only a few ohms may mean a shorted rectifier or two or a shorted Posistor.

    Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.

    Some sets use a Posistor for degauss control. This is a little cubical (about 1/2" x 3/4" x 1") component with 3 legs. It includes a line operated heater disk (which often shorts out) and a PTC thermister to control current to the degauss coil. Remove the posistor and try power. If the monitor now works, obtain a replacement but in the meantime you just won't have the automatic degauss.

    If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.

    C-E should be high in at least one direction.
    B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.

    If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.

    If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.

    Of course, not much else will work either.

    If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.

    Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.

    If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.

    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.
    Hope this help....

    Jun 27, 2010 | Televison & Video

    1 Answer

    Tv wont turn on?


    Hello,
    first you have to open the back cover of the television to check for blown fuses.

    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

    Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!

    Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).

    If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:

    Degauss Posistor - very likely.
    Horizontal output transistor.
    Power supply regulator if there is one.
    Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
    Diode(s) in main bridge
    Main filter capacitor(s).

    You should be able to eliminate these one by one.



    Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.


    If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.

    C-E should be high in at least one direction.
    B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.

    If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.

    If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.

    Of course, not much else will work either.

    If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.

    Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.

    If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.

    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.
    But if otherwise your power supply board is dead, It can be dead at anytimes.Tries websites Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
    Hope this helps....

    .

    Jun 05, 2010 | Zenith R57W46 57" Rear Projection...

    1 Answer

    Our TV suddenly stopped working and will not come back on


    Hello,

    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages.However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

    Note that it *may be* useful to replace a fuse the *first* time it blows (though it would be better to do some basic checks for shorted components first as there is a small chance that having a fuse blow the second time could result in additional damage which would further complicate the troubleshooting process). However, if the new one blows, there is a real problem and the only use in feeding the TV fuses will be to keep the fuse manufacturer in business!

    Sometimes, a fuse will just die of old age or be zapped by a power surge that caused no damage to the rest of the TV. However, it must be an EXACT replacement (including slo-blow if that is what was there originally). Else, there could be safety issues (e.g., fire hazard or equipment damage from too large a current rating) or you could be chasing a non-existent problem (e.g., if the new fuse is not slo-blow and is blown by the degauss circuit inrush current but nothing is actually wrong).

    If the fuse really blows absolutely instantly with no indication that the circuits are functioning (no high pitched horizontal deflection whine (if your dog hides under the couch whenever the TV is turned on, deflection is probably working).) then this points to a short somewhere quite near the AC power input. The most common places would be:

    Degauss Posistor - very likely.
    Horizontal output transistor.
    Power supply regulator if there is one.
    Power supply chopper (switchmode) transistor if there is one.
    Diode(s) in main bridge
    Main filter capacitor(s).

    You should be able to eliminate these one by one.

    Test the rectifiers individually or remove and retest the resistance.

    If these test good, use an ohmmeter with the set unplugged to measure the horizontal output transistor. Even better to remove it and measure it.

    C-E should be high in at least one direction.
    B-E may be high or around 50 ohms but should not be near 0.

    If any readings are under 5 ohms, the transistor is bad. The parts sources listed at the end of this document will have suitable replacements.

    If the HOT tests bad, try powering the set first with your light bulb and if it just flashes once when the capacitor is charging, then put a fuse in and try it. The fuse should not blow with the transistor removed.

    Of course, not much else will work either.

    If it tests good, power the set without the transistor and see what happens. If the fuse does not blow, then with the good transistor (assuming it is not failing under load), it would mean that there is some problem with the driving circuits possibly or with the feedback from the voltages derived from the horizontal not regulating properly.

    Look inside the TV and see if you can locate any other large power transistors in metal (TO3) cans or plastic (TOP3) cases. There may be a separate transistor that does the low voltage regulation or a separate regulator IC. Some TVs have a switchmode power supply that runs off a different transistor than the HOT. There is a chance that one of these may be bad. If it is a simple transistor, the same ohmmeter check should be performed.

    If none of this proves fruitful, it may be time to try to locate a schematic.

    A blown fuse is a very common type of fault due to poor design very often triggered by power surges due to outages or lightning storms. However, the most likely parts to short are easily tested, usually in-circuit, with an ohmmeter and then easily removed to confirm.

    But if otherwise your power supply board is died, It can be dead at anytimes.Tries websites Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish power supply board for the replacement.
    Good luck....

    Jun 05, 2010 | iLO 3200 32 in. LCD Television

    1 Answer

    Kenwood kac-7202 wirng 4 subs


    look at the Z [impedance] specs for the amp. Look at the Z for the speakers. You may eventually have to wire them in a series-parallel config or risk blowing your output transistors.

    Due to the utilization of so many drivers, your power demands are limited. The more drivers you utilize, the more volume loss. Bass response requires a lot of power (W) in which to drive.

    Do not worry about paper or polyprop/carbonate structures... focus on your impedance issue or risk frying the output transistors in the long run [thermal runaway].

    Oct 15, 2008 | Kenwood KAC-7202 Car Audio Amplifier

    1 Answer

    Kenwood KR-A4070 blowing 5a 125v fuses


    I am guessing that the ceramic resistor is close to the output transistors. I would also guess that one or more of the output transistors has shorted. This causes a high current draw that is blowing the fuse. You could also have a power supply problem. The ceramic resistor is a .22ohm dual emitter resistor that is used in the output stage. The transistors located close by are probably shorted and should be replaced. Start there and let us know what happens once the transistors and the resistor are changed.

    Dan

    Oct 10, 2008 | Kenwood Audio Players & Recorders

    2 Answers

    Kenwood basic M2 Amp Lightning strike


    you can check the output transistors for short circuits with the low ohms range or diode checker . If they have failed, then it is often a good idea to replace all as much stress can be placed on an output array in this type of failure. to repair reliable, all outputs on an offending channel should be replaced.

    Make sure the fuse you replaced was the same type of fuse. check markings.... T stands for sloblo... a fast blo duse may let go at turn on. The power supply may have a shorted rectifier diode in it also.

    be aware however, every time a fuse of that rating blows... more damage may be occurring to the amp.

    Dec 11, 2007 | Kenwood VR-407 Receiver

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