Shutter staying open and only closing when dial moved to M90 or B
My Nikon FE has had this problem now for quite a few years and I have been unable to find someone who could fix it. In fact, I bought a second FE because I have great lenses but the shutter started to stick on that one too. It only works on b and m90, although the shutter will close properly on occasion. You suggested resetting the mirror by setting the camera on M90 prior to installing new batteries? Did I understand that correctly? Can I use the camera in the M90 mode and only change aperatures?
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Re: shutter staying open and only closing when dial moved...
It sounds like your cameras need a CLA (clean, lube and adjustment). Occasionally when this has happened to me, i noticed that it was the foam on the mirror bumper that had gotten all deteriorated and gummy and as such the mirror would 'stick' to it when it flipped up. Changing the foam seals might do the trick.
Switching to M90 means that the camera is in Manual mode whereby it is not relying on the electronics at all in the camera. When your battery dies in mid shoot, you switch to M90 and you shoot manually at a fixed speed of 1/90 second. Of course your light meter won't have power, but if you meter manually or go by the 'Sunny 16' rule, you can adjust the aperture and get your shots.
Yes, moving the shutter dial to M90 should release the mirror back down, if it is stuck up.I'm assuming of course that you didn't manually set the mirror up anyway... Test it out with brand new batteries!
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M90 is a battery independent setting - it requires no battery power to function. If it won't advance until put on M90 from other settings, then either you're not allowing for proper exposure, have the settings incorrectly set (film speed, etc), or you have shutter issues. The shutter is electronically controlled on all settings except M90. In the auto setting, your lense MUST be set to the smallest aperture (biggest number). On any other setting, you can use it however you'd like. I'd suggest unloading any film, setting the shutter speed dial to 1/125 or so, opening the back and looking thru and firing the shutter. If it's not snapping open and immediately closed, theres an issue and you need to consult a repair technician either locally, through Nikon, or through KEH Camera online.
Try a new set of batteries. The shutter is electronically operated at all speeds except the B and M90 settings. If the exposure meter works with a new set of batteries but the shutter still does not, then you'll have to take it in for service.
I have the same problem with a Nikon F2, got it off my grandfather and its been in his attic for at least the last 10 years. I don't know if parts have seized up or if im doing something wrong. have put in new batteries, but film advance lever won't go past "on" position. have tried pressing shutter but it doesn't help. Also film winding knob will not lift up enough to load in a film! any solutions!?
Have you tried fresh batteries and setting the shutter speed dial to M90 or m250 whichever you have? If this does'nt work you can remove the camera bottom plate and gently pull a lever away from the advance cog. Some times things get out of sync in there. Sorry I can't be more specific but I did this many years ago. Good Luck.
If the shutter doesn't stick on the M90 position, the problem is electronic. If it does, the issue is mechanical. Try the battery check. Hold it for a few seconds. If the LED goes out, the issue is most likely with the batteries. Use really fresh, top quality batteries. Use only silver oxide batteries, not the alkalines that are often substituted.
TRy firing the camera in the M90 setting. If it fires properly, use the battery test switch. If the battery LED doesn't light up, replace the batteries (2 MS76 type). The FE requires healthy batteries to operate the shutter. If the meter is calling for a slow shutter speed (low light or lens cap still on?). If the batteries are good, but the shutter still won't fire normally in sufficient light, looks like you're in for a repair shop visit.
This is a fairly common problem with Nikon FE . It is usually caused by poor connection ( usually dry joint ) between the light meter board ( all of this is just under the top cover on the right hand side and the top cover is quite easy to remove ) and the shutter and you fix it by resoldering all the connecting wires between the two.
It may be fatal as there are no parts available for the FE series. The main components that cause this problem are the FRE/ASA unit and the meter itself. The FRE is located under the rewind knob side of the top cover. It is made of glass and can be damaged by impact. The meter is under the speed dial and can also cause this type of problem. Neither is a easy repair.