Sputtering during idle blue smoke

no mileage told , 3.0L V6engine, gas.
cranks and starts.
so does start and idle as long as you want?
or idles fine and only throttle pushed stalls it.
stalls have 3 reasons in physics, on Otto cycle gas engine
1: bad engine
2: bad spark (never did a tune up ever, plugs wires or boots?
3: bad fuel, lean fuel or flooding (means gross rich fueling)
3a fuel filter packed omg not 29 years old .?
4: air no air to burn fuel the air filter is packed up.



when did this old car last run right, list week, month ,year ,decade./?,
found this car in a barn, dead? there is always story on any car 29 years old and one does not see them on the road now so..... tell it"?

if fuel is/was old that is bad fuel and clogs up many parts in the fuel system.
is this USA car? spec?
why not start with x6 spark plugs/.? fresh new and gapped right.
then cap/rotor and those useless 29 year old HV spark wires x6
kick those to the curb,and get MAG wires from BOSCH or NGK
that will cure spark if the 1 spark coil is good and the Distributor parts deeper are good the ICM.

Air is more dense at lower temperatures so the cylinders fill better and there is some evidence increased humidity also helps engines to run better.

Replacing stuff in the vague hope it will provide a cure can be expensive and very frustrating and is no substitute for proper checks and replacing only what proves to be faulty.

New plugs won't improve matters if the spark is really weak and a new fuel pump is really money down the drain if the pressure regulator is faulty or the injectors aren't spraying properly or the carb has some blocked jets or if the oxygen sensor is sending the wrong information...

It is best practice to always start with the basics - engine condition, timing, compressions, cylinder leakage and so forth. Your description indicates the engine is short of fuel or fuel that it can use but could equally be caused by a restricted exhaust. I once had a car just like that and it was a worn exhaust cam lobe that was causing the trouble.

You've already eliminated the spark plug & wireset, distributor cap & rotor.
Sounds like your car needs a tune-up, specifically, the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve, and/of the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve.

Components checked/replaced during a tune-up are:
air filter
motor oil
motor oil filter
breather filter
fuel filter(s)
fuel strainer
PCV valve
EGR valve
spark plugs
spark plug wires
ECM or distributor cap & rotor
cabin air filter
transmission oil filter
transmission oil
engine coolant
check all vacuum hoses and lines

Troubleshooting the no-start condition - from the 1990 Mitsu Mighty Max Repair Manual:

Priority Action Part Type -- Cause
1 Inspect Battery -- Battery Discharged or Faulty.
2 Inspect Battery Cable -- Corroded, Broken, Shorted or Poorly Connected Battery Cable.
3 Inspect Distributor Cap -- Distributor Cap Cracked or Burned.
3 Inspect Fuel Filter -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Filter.
5 Inspect Ignition Coil -- Faulty Ignition Coil.
6 Inspect Wireset -- Worn, Damaged or Faulty Spark Plug Wire(s).
7 Inspect Spark Plug -- Incorrectly Gapped or Fouled Spark Plug(s).
8 Inspect Starter -- Starter Motor Faulty.
9 Inspect Fuel Pump -- Low Fuel Pressure.
10 Inspect Solenoid Switch -- Faulty Starter Solenoid Switch.
11 Inspect Fuel Pump Relay -- Faulty Fuel Pump Relay.
12 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator -- Faulty Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator.
13 Inspect Ignition Switch -- Improperly Connected or Faulty Ignition Switch.
14 Inspect Starter Drive -- Faulty Starter Drive.
15 Inspect Fuel Injector -- Dirty or Worn Fuel Injectors.
16 Inspect Fuel Pump Strainer -- Clogged or Dirty Fuel Pump Strainerat.
17 Inspect Engine Control Computer -- Incorrect Operating Information Being Delivered and Sent From The EEC.
18 Inspect Fuel Tank -- Fuel Tank Empty.
19 Inspect Carburetor -- Carburetor Flooded or Faulty Choke.
20 Inspect Distributor -- Worn, Loose, or Incorrectly Installed Distributor.

it is fuel injected and the injectors are in a manifold at the inlet manifold
most misfires are injector related ( dirty tips , low fuel pressure or injector wiring harness) get a workshop manual from an auto parts shop

POSSIBLE FUEL REGULATOR

to me it sounds like your just about to put water down your exhaust mate or your rings are binding up. I recon dump your oil and run diesel oil from now on and reset your timing belt before those new spark plugs end up in your lap.

If not getting fuel then the normal areas to check is the fuel filter, fuel pump but first the obvious is to make sure you have fuel in the tank. If this engine has a carburetor, remove the air filter houseing and pour a small amount of gas into it. Try starting it. If it starts and then dies it is a fuel delivery problem. If it wont start even temporily then I'd check things like wires, plugs, timing, etc (stuff to do with delivering a spark).

92 max
I own a 92 max 370 kms runs good but one day just cuts out while doing about 30 km, I pull over i can start it no problem but when I touch the pedal to accelerate the car stalls out.

It got worse to the point of sputtering on the highway , sometimes i could keep it alive by working the pedal but others would slow down and stall out.

I have changed the fuel filter and plugs seemed to make it a bit better but still stalling. I ran it in my driveway for 10 mins on idle then it stalls out

Is this the fuel pump??

change plugs wires also .fill gas tank up put prestone or gum out fuel injector cleaner.drive car around several miles.give injector cleaner time to clean out injectors.wait until engine cool .change fuel filter.relief fuel pressure before changing fuel filter.

Tune up..

Plugs, wires, air filter, oil change, fuel filter...

Still not running right, time for a compression test, or ignition system checkup.