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Re: dark picture image, dosen't respond to briteness...
Are you able to see the picture in a dark room ? does it appear bright enough then ? if so the lights behind your screen have dimmed or gone out completely. this may just be the power supply for the lights or your lcd panel may need to be replaced
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I assume that this is a film camera that has light meter. It could be that the camera is set to a different film sensitivity than the actual film. For example, the film is 400 ASA but the camera is set to 100 ASA. The sensitivity rating of the film is written on the film box and on the film cartridge. Make sure you set the film ASA number on the camera too.
You'll have to do it manually. Take the camera into a totally dark and lightproof room: if you can see anything at all in the darkness then it's not dark enough.
Open the camera back and remove the film can. Wearing clean lint free gloves, gently but firmly pull on the film to slowly unwind it from the take up spool, as you do so turn the spigot on the film can to wind it back in.
Note that on a manual wind camera, you would have been able to press a rewind button to disengage the film take up sprocket gears, but on your you can't. If the film seems at risk of tearing then try pulling it out at a right angle to the back of the camera. This ensures that you're not pulling it back over the sprockets and it should then come out quite easily. If your film is likely to contain important and irreplaceable images then you may wish to buy 12 or 24 exposure cheap film and borrow another 35mm camera to practice the method I've recommended in the light where you can see what you're doing.
If you are using 120 film (medium format) you only need to advance the film as far as possible. Then remove the film from the camera and wrap the excess paper around the roll and seal.
When you finish all the pictures on the roll of 35mm film you will need to rewind the film completely before exposing it to light. You can do this by taking the camera in a pitch dark room, removing the film and turning the knob on the top of the film roll until the film has been completely wound back into the the roll.
The Canon EOS is a digital line of cameras from what I can tell. If that is the case, then there is no film in the camera.
However, assuming that you actually have a 35mm camera with film stuck in it, the following should work for. You don't indicate what you mean by stuck, but the standard solution for removing 35mm film from a camera is to take the camera into a dark room, open the back of the camera and remove the film and canister, being careful to not tear the film. While still in the dark room, place the film into a light proof bag to avoid spoiling it when it goes into the light. You can then contact a local photo processor about their ability to process the loose film. Make sure that the bag is clearly marked to avoid having someone open it by accident, spoiling the film in the light. If you can't find someone locally who can process the film, Kodak can do it for you in Rochester, New York. Contact them for instructions on shipping the film.
If you don't care about the film or pictures it may contain, feel free to simply open the camera and remove the cansiter and film, discard it, and start over.
Sounds like you have a light leak. At the film plane of your camera the image from the lens is upside down and laterally reversed, so the light leak is at the top left of the film when it's in the camera. If you're shooting for prints look at the strips of negatives. If the edges of the film are affected as well as the picture area then the light leak is at the back. If it's just the picture area then the light leak is through the film gate. If you hold a strip of negatives in the camera with the emulsion towards the lens and the picture upside down and then line up the picture with the film gate this should point to the problem area. All this assumes that your finger wasn't in front of the lens... :-)
I have had the same problem I have two bell receivers one in the bedroom and one in the living room, in low light the remote in the living room would work much like yours, but if I took the same remote into the bedroom it worked fine in low light, the second remote responded exactly the same, the problem in my situation was the TV had a light sensor that adjusts the picture depending on the light in the room, with this option turned off. The remote works just fine in low light situation.
Take the camera with the film still inside to a reputable business that develops and prints pictures. The usually have a means of retreiving the film with out futher damage. If you want to do this yourself, you will need a place that is totally dark. You will also need something that is totally light tight. A solid plastic film canister may be sufficient. Take your camera into the "dark room" , open the back and gently try and release the film avoiding as much as possible only touching the edges of the film. You can turn the lights on once you have the film inside the light tight canister.
This is called a dark shading error. All the LCD consumer sets have some visible degree of this effect. Some will be a little less or more than others even from the same batch in the assembly run. This has to do with the optical design quality of how the back-plane lamps illuminate the screen. The design and assembly tollerance of this area is very critical.
Normally, LCD screens don't show their best picture in a darkened room. The very black regions of the picture content may look a little washed out. LCD screens are best watched in a room that is lit, but not very bright. You have to consider that there is a powerful set of lights behind the polarized panel of the LCD display, and there will always be some breakthrough of light.
If you want a TV that is more like a CRT in its characteristics a Plasma would have been a good choice. The trade-off with the Plasma is that it does not have the picture sharpness of the LCD. A Plasma set is best watched in a darkened room.
If you have an LCD computer monitor, take a look at it in a dark room with a black screen. You will most likely see the dark shading errors. Only the very expensive production studio type LCD monitors have less of this error than the consumer sets, and they are not absolutely perfect.
Back - light problem; common fault to this model TVs. Check and replace damaged component/s at its back-light inverter board, or replace this board as card basis. If you wish to get some details; check the site linked here. Surf the site with patience. Pull up older posts. It will be best to replace the inverter board as card basis. http://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
To some model sets; especially LED back-lighted types; the back-light inverter circuit will be part of the main power supply board [SMPS]. In such cases, the power supply board might need replacement. To some models sets, the back-light inverter and SMPS section circuit will be integrated at its main board itself. If so; the main board should be replaced. To some models of sets, all these section circuit will be integrated at its main board. If this is the case, you have to replace the main board.
Try hooking the TV to a different outlet fed by a different breaker. Does the problem go away? If so, the culprit may be a wiring problem in your house that is causing the TV not to get enough power unless the dining room light is on.If in doubt, consult an electrician to make sure both the dining room light and TV outlet circuits are working properly.