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You need to replace the hinges in the door. Go online to a spares website and enter make and model and order new hinges. You can replace them by unhooking the door, just takes a little effort, you might need to flick back latch on hinge and lift out. Remove inner door panel, usually 4 screws and remove. then change hinges. The 2 big pieces are the hinges.
Hinges may need to be replaced. Rule of thumb, if one is changed, change the other as well. Also try WD40 open and close continuously, it may be stuck. But you will eventually have to change the hinges. Good luck.
your going to have to replace both the door hinges, since they have been over extended past ninety degrees they are not able to close to ninety degrees. that is the only repair, i would also look closely at the inner door panel and make sure that is not "crowned" or bent from the force that might also need replacing
On my double oven the bottom door was not closing by at least 21/2 inches the upper door would allow the light to stay on . Upon close examination this problem appeared to be the door was too low which did not allow the gasket to seat in the oven cavity, holding the door open. new hinges and receptors did not resolve this condition.This is how I corrected this condition. 1 open the doors one at a time and lock the hinges.2 remove the doors from the receptors (be careful they are heavy) and set aside. 3 remove mounting screws holding oven in cabinet. 4 slide oven forward enough to hold onto receptor sockets on left and right sides lower and upper 5 remove receptor sockets by removing the screws in front of oven(be careful to hold on to the receptor so it doesnt fall behind oven into cabinet)7 with a center punch punch a start point 1/8 inch above the existing screw holes and drill appropriate size hole for screw THE HOLES MUST MATCH UPPER AND LOWER RECEPTOR OR THE SCREWS ON THE LOWER DOOR WILL SCRATCH THE UPPER DOOR .8 attach receptors to oven in new holes 9 slide oven back into cabinet and replace screws removed in step three 10 attach doors into receptors and push locks forward into receptor cavity attach lower door first and check for operation then upper door open slowly and check enough clearance exists for the screws on the lower door miss the upper door . If more clearance is needed elongate the holes drilled earlier(repeat steps 1 through 5) and slide receptor up on upper door. NOTE The receptors are not in a sealed space in the oven cavity and are not exposed to any heat. Periodically check the screws for tightness. After performing this procedure Both doors close all the way and the light is no longer a problem Now 20 minutes cook time MEANS 20 MINUTES COOK TIME.
HOPE THIS RESOLVES YOUR PROBLEM !!!!!
The unit may be out of plumb ( square to the floor ). I suggest you get a level and make sure the stove/oven is level and if it's not, there are some levelers ( where legs would be on the bottom ) that can be adjusted with needle nose pliers or a cresent wrench. If this doesn'e work, you may have some hinges sprung and need to replace them. Good Luck
I had the same problem on my parents Kitchenaid KEMS378GWH0 oven, the door would only close enough to keep the light on. They propped a chair against it to cook. My father replaced the hinges and it worked for about a week. He noticed that pulling outward on the door at the very bottom edge often allowed it to close enough to use.
After completely dismantling the oven to get access to the brackets that the hinges slide into, we found it was not broken. We decided to expand on the only near solution we had and find a way to make the bottom of the door 'push out'. Our solution was very simple. Remove the small metal plate that covers the door insulation. This revealed that the insulation is a braided hollow rope that is held in by small clips that push through holes in the front of the oven. We threaded some small metal rods about 3/8 inch in diameter into the hollow insulation pushed the clips back in to re-attach the insulation, replaced the metal cover plate.