Re: When I switch off ceiling fan outside motion sensor...
I AM NOT SURE ABOUT THIS ONE....... THIS IS A NEW ONE ON ME........ I WOULD THINK THAT THE LIGHTS ARE NOT GROUNDED CORRECTLY ..IF YOU HAD THE SYSTEM INSTALL (THE SECURITY LIGHTS,AND SECURITY) BY A COMPANY ..THIS IS THE THERE PROBLEM.... .....SOUND'S LIKE A GROUND TO ME THE MORE I THINK ABOUT IT GOOD LUCK
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you don't ask these questions after you buy , ask them before.Obviously you don't install it the same way as a normal antenna so , how is it done? First of all I don't even know what it looks like but I can say its got to be a di-pole antenna which is the norm for inside use. You could also use it outside. If you have the one that looks like a floor pole lamp then you would have one end on the floor and the other end pressing against the ceiling to hold it up. Then there is the other type that goes in your attic . It sort of looks like a co-phased mirror set up . You have to attach it to the rafters in your attic . You could also do a search for your question . Its not hard to do its just finding the right location in your home.
I am not sure what type of car you have, but if it is reasonably modern, you will have what is called and "Active Antenna". This needs power and is usually powered from the car radio. I am sure that when the new radio was installed, this connection was missed. FM will work fine around town, but get a few miles outside, and you won't have anything. AM will be very noise or non-existant, as you have found out.
I had the same broublem with a used car that I had purchased. Once I connected the power to the antenna up, I had AM stations coming in from 200 miles away, and FM for 75 miles or so.
You need to take off cover locate wires to that switch and cut them loose from CB/WB and buy a Toggle switch to mount outside radio and switch it on/off like to make CB/WB selection..Seems that switch inside is screwed. needs new one. I would rigg it myself. By drilling hole in cover and placing outside toggle with white marker saying Cb top Wb bottom.
when mic is pressed transmitter is engaged. First is the Fuse the proper fuse? Could be an antenna-coax problem. Get a dummy load and hook up to your CB and try it again. If it doesn't blow the fuse, the problem is indeed in your coax antenna system. another way to test your antenna coax is to disconnect it from the radio, take a multimeter, set it to ohms 200 ohm scale, put one lead on the center pin of the coax and the other on the outside of the connector on the coax.if it shows anything at all, you have a short and that will not work. It needs to not read anything. To be sure the antenna system is ok other than swr you can also check the coax an antenna for continuity. one lead of meter on the coax center pin then other on the antenna. should get a reading, a low value. again on the outside of the coax at the connector and at the antenna side on the outside of the coax connector. should be a low reading. but you cannot have a reading from the center of the coax to the outside of the coax. disconnect the coax at the antenna and measure from center to outside at the coax if the previous reading showed a value.If you see a value on the meter, any value, your coax has a short. not good. most likely at the coax connector. redo the connector. It is possible that the coax got compromised somehow and got smashed to the point the outside coax meets the inside and touches. Now the other possibily your fuse blows, kis because the final output transistor is bad. So if you hook up a dummy load to your radio and the fuse still blows, then the final transistor is bad. This is probably due to a bad coax-antenna system. So before you replace any parts check the coax-antenna system first or you will have the same problem and burn out another transistor in the final. If none of this helps then just get another radio or have a god buddy look at it that knows about radios. Trade him another radio or something to fix it.
You can use a 13.8V DC power supply. If your CB is strictly stock a good 3 amp power supply will be fine. But if you do any power or modulation mods on it then go up to a 5amp power supply. The negative wire on your CB going into the power supply will serve just fine for a ground for a stock CB. If you start running any power then ground the CB again from the metal chassis to a pipe or maybe the hose faucet outside using a 10 gauge solid copper wire or copper braid strap. Many people run a mobile CB in their home. It's the same as the car accept you will run things from that power supply. If you have any further questions feel free to ask.
This sounds like a problem with the diode matrix which pre-programs channel 9 on the PLL code signals. Probably the "channel 9" switch that activates these diodes is bad, so that the diodes are activated all the time preventing the channel switch to do its work. You will need a schematic diagram and a voltmeter to check the logic signals in this circuit. Start witht he switch; does the switch voltage change when you toggle the switch? If not; switch is bad. If it does, the problem must be "farther downstream" with the diodes itself.
left to right,Volume,on/off(center) Squelch (outside)2nd knob is mic gain (center) this controls how much adio output you produce.. and rf gain,(outside) This adjust how sensitive the radio recieves.3rd knob is pa/fm/am This sets the radio up for using a public address horn if hooked up, or to transmit and recieve on am (most common) or fm. The next knob controls what bands o channels you operate on .6 bands of channels with 40 channels each.The next knob controls the amount of echo and reverb you use when you talk.The center controls the echo and the outside controls the speed,or reverb effect.The next knob controls the talk back(so you hear what you sound like on the center control, and the outside controls how much power you put out.The next knob, the biggest one is your channel selector.The push buttons are top l to r are:1 is the dimmer switch for your lights,the middel top is noise blanker and automatic noise limiter. This blanks out a lot of static and outside electrical noise.the last top switch is a roger beep switch to turn it on and off. When it is on you will produce a quick beep when you unkey the mike. This was originally used to let the other people on the bands know you stopped talking.The bottom left shuts off the frequency counter(the numbered display ie27.185,the middle sets the meter to be used as an swr meter or a regular s/rf meter.the last on the bottom will boost the frequencet up100 kilohertz.if you go to the following url you can get more info:http://www.rangerusa.com/. Hope this helps
Are you able to get a new mic for your radio? Because I really think the problem is in the mic. Here is a test buy a cheap replacement mic that can be used with your unit and swap it out with your current mic. 9 time out of 10 this will solve the problem. If not the problem may be with the sensor switch inside of the unit itself, the sensor switch detects when the mic is activated, it avoids the galvanic response of the metallic switch in the mic. The switch could have malfunctioned. However I repeat, that I believe the mic has malfunctioned.