I have an amana model number (according to tech) gdc070x30b and every year on startup the pressure switch has water in it and I pay a guy to blow the water out. Is there a fix for this? Cost me $75bucks again this yr! It is a horizontal unit in the atlanta area and is located in a crawlspace. Thanks for any help or steer to somone who can help
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furnace lights burners on then burners go outafter a few seconds, is that right? if thats correct , look for FLAME SENSOR it is a metal rod that flames will hit. about the thickness of a metal coat hanger. it is usually on other end as ignighter. it has 1 wire going to it. and held in by 1 screw. remove and sand off with sand paper. reinstall and turn on. it will be right were flames come out of burner.
On your heater, does it tell you a fault code for the number of blinks?
If you have cycled the power to the unit already, the fault code should have cleared. If the fault code cleared and then came back, sounds like either a issue the blower motor being shot, or a relay in between the ignition controller and or the ignition control is bad, not making the heater do anything.
Sorry you're having a problem. As the Mantis is one of the most efficient vented heaters on the market. In fact, it's furnace rated.
It sounds like their may be a relay problem, but can't be sure. I would suggest that you call Empire Comfort Systems on Monday and ask for either Rich or John in Technical Service. I' am sure that either one can help you with this technical issue. The number is 800-851-3153. Be sure to have the Serial Number of this unit, as well as the Model #, when you call.
I have had the some problem but with no luck with a Repairman figuring out the problem. Also, the Laars manual does not mention trouble shooting the problem that I have discovered. Try this: with the pump off, remove the water line from the pressure switch and put a small bucket on the end of the line and turn the pump back on briefly to see if you get good water flow coming out of it. If not, then you have the same problem that I have with scale build-up in the header that is clogging the pressure switch line to the pressure switch. I have to periodically remove the line at the header and use a small piece of wire to unclog the scale in the header. Also, you should use a compressor to clean out the copper line in case there is scale clogging it. Once you have cleaned it out then you will hear suction (with the pump off). Reinstall the line to the pressure switch, turn the pump back on, and the heater should fire since your pilot light is still lit. It will take half a minute while the pressure line and switch fill up with water and pressurize. Hope this works for you also.
P.S.: And my heater is only 3 years old!
Check this out. You ave to apply negative pressure to make the reed switch click, that means you have to apply suction to the switch to check it. most of these switchs ain't the problem. Blocked tubing yes bad switch naw.
Hmm, spiders in the pressure switch tube, not impossible however they usually go for the gas orifice, and yes I'm serious. If the problem is in the pressure switch tubing it is usually condensation, which is normally present in the vent system. If the tube loops down and back up then this makes a water trap, which will not allow the pressure switch to sense the pressure from the vent motor. Otherwise there could be an issue with the venting, also any dips or sags will cause a water trap. did he use a manometer to determine this issue? if the venting, the heat exchanger and the connecting tube are fine, then it could be a defective pressure switch. It's simply a proccess of elimination, by inspection, not parts replacement. The pressure switch is nothing more than a diaphragm membrane which is pulled or pushed by the pressure difference created by the vent motor, a calibrated spring determines how much force is needed to move the diaphragm and close an electric switch. Not sure if that will solve the issue, but it should give you somewhere to start.
The boiler should have a make-up water connection from the home cold water supply line. Depending on when it was installed it will have a back flow preventer in line before the pressure reducing valve. The pressure reducing valve is designed to fill the boiler if the water pressure in the boiler falls below a specific set point, usually 12-15 pounds. I will be piped to the return side of the boiler in most cases. If the boiler is not filling the PRV could be defective, or depending on the specific controls, there could be a low water float assembly, either electronic or mechanical that activates a control valve to fill the boiler and that may be either stuck or defective. Boilers should be properly maintained at a minimum of every other year, once a year is best to ensure that you get 25+ years of operation from them.
Ok, a flashing 3 on a Goodman control board usually means that the pressure switch is tripping. A few things will cause this. One being a restriction in the exhaust or combustion air inlet. The second could indicate a faulty inducer blower motor and the third would be a blocked or bad pressure switch. With the front cover off and door switch taped down, Have a helper turn the thermostat up to 75. You will be watching the circuit board for flashing lights and in a few seconds the inducer motor (the small fan hooked to the exhaust) will start. If this does not happen, we either have a bad circuit board or blower motor. If the fan starts rotating, inspect the hoses going to the small circular pressure switch. Sometimes they may get either water or debris in the hose and not allow the switch to sense pressure. If the hoses look OK, the igniter will glow an orange color and you will see this if you look thru the small viewing port. IF no glow, you could have a bad pressure switch, a bad ignition relay (found on the circuit board) or a bad igniter. OK so if the igniter glows, a few seconds later the gas valve should click open and send gas to the burners. The orange will turn to blue. If this does not happen, you have either a bad gas valve or bad circuit board. Finally if you get flame but it will not stay lit more than a few seconds, you may have a restriction in the burner gas train, a bad gas valve, a dirty or bad flame sensor or not enough gas pressure. Knowing the sequence of operation will give you the needed information to talk with a service technician and cut down on diagnostic costs. Try looking on the back of the furnace access panel for both model number and a diagnostic schematic. This will confirm what the flashing 3 code means for your unit. Sorry, without knowing the model number, this is the best I can do for you. Good Luck!