Question about Televison & Video
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Cristoffr, this is very, very interesting! I replaced all three ICs per the repair discussed over in Agoraquest:
(scroll about half way down).
This did nothing. However, I had heard that a fan on the back of the TV might keep it from turning off. After the repair failed, I used a fan and for 24 hours the TV has remained on!
The Sony manual for repairing the DX-1A chassis gives testing and possible solutions for each of the blinking codes. About the five blink code it has this to say:
"Blanking - Standby light blinks five timesCircuit - The Ik signals are measured by Y/C, CRT Drive IC201 and areu sed to adjust the RGB gain to maintain color balance. As the picture tube ages, the Ik signals may fall below the threshold for automatic balance and mute/blank the picture. Testing - Increase the G2 control on the CRT’s C board. If that does not return cathode current to within operating range so the picture will appear, examine each filament to see if it is lit.
Then use your scope to examine the signal to the cathode. Go to CN9001/pins 1, 3 and 5 to see if there is a signal coming into the C board. Next check the signal at the CRT cathodes. If they are present, check the IK signal from CN9001/pin 8 of the C board. You should see three pulses and be able to change the level of the signal with the G2 control. If you get about 1Vp-p pulses at pin 8, this is the normal output from the CRT/C board so the problem is on the A board about IC201."
Note, Cristoffr that it mentions the C board in particular, the G2 control. However, it also mentions IC201 on the A board. I am going to post this finding to the Agoraquest board and see if anyone there has any ideas.
At least we have narrowed it down. We with the 5 blink shut-off are rare. Usually with the 5 blink problem the screen *blanks*, yet the TV remains on. I wish we could find a knowledgable tech who could diagnose this. Certainly this much information would lead him/her to a solution. I have heard it might be the flyback transformer, which does have a lead that goes to the C board. Possibly the flyback is not within output limits and the C board is initiating the shut down. Doesn't make sense though, because the power supplies are on the D board. Whew. Who knows? Anyway... I'll keep you posted with any info I gain, and I'd appreciate the same from you.
PS If you want to reach me via email you can at:
But perhaps we should do most of our communication here for the benefit of anyone who has the same problem. Just a thought.
Posted on Nov 21, 2008
THERE ARE STEPS TO FOLLOW, TROUBLEING FAULTING, CONNECT A METER AVO AND SET IT ON AMPS IN SERIES WITH OUT PUT, OF A POWER SUPPLY, THIS SHOULD BE OPEN CIRCUIT, I MEAN CUT A POWER LINE INTO A LOAD. AFTER THAT START ISOLATING SEMI CONDUCTORS ONE BY ONE, SEMI CONDUCTORS ARE COMPONENTS LIKE, DIODES, IC AND TRANSISTORS. A FAULT WILL BE FOUND
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Actually, I don't think your problem is a matter of buttons pushed on a couple of remotes at all. I looked around the web and noted several instances that instructors may have confused readers, including those of the notably confusing user manual, as to how many of the multiple video inputs can be used simultaneously, and I believe you should choose the highest fidelity video input, whether optical or even composite, since your symptoms seem those of a situation where several video inputs
are superimposed one upon another, which is an absolute no-no, and can ruin your video amplifier.
Check for multiple video input hookups before you burn out the vid-amp.
Posted on Apr 14, 2009
A good tech can find out what is wrong with the set. The power supply has a protection mode which causes the shutdown. Also, there is a memory chip that a Sharp repair center can connect to and read out the fault history. A shop that talks about replacing a board is not a good place to go to. You need a shop that can isolate the malfunctioning parts and replace the part at the circuit level, not at the board level.
Try this site for a repair shop near you:
Pls rate my suggestion.........
Posted on Jul 25, 2009
Testimonial: "karthik316 thank you so much sir. your tips were so helpful..i have fixed my sharp tv. God less. Call me Chad"
I would call for a technician to come out as it appears the receiver may have been incorrectly set up or is malfunctioning. I suspect that you have a Dish Pro LNB and are using one line into the 612 which uses DPP technology. The short of it is the two are only compatible if two lines are ran to the receiver and the seperator is eliminated. Without being there to test the system end to end it is all speculation. Thanks for using Fix Ya.
Posted on Sep 28, 2009
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