No heat in the radiators in the upstairs of our home.
We replaced the circulating pump just before the season. When we turned everything on it worked well. Then we got a warm weather spell and turned the thermostat down again but left the pump running. when we fired it up again after a couple weeks the upstairs radiators did not get hot. I suspect a vapor lock situation but this is a sealed system and I cannot find any bleeder valves on the baseboard type radiators. How do I trouble shoot and fix this problem? The system is working extra hard to keep the house warm. Now that the colder air upstairs naturally finds its way down stairs.
Re: No heat in the radiators in the upstairs of our home.
Hi, What your looking for is called a (hy-vent). it bleeds air out of a system. you should have one on the top of your expansion tank. it is 1-1/2" in diameter and about 3" long. there is a little cap on top, unscrew the cap off. it looks like a bicycle tire valve. press the stem down inside until water comes out, then put the cap back on leave the cap loose so the hy-vent can do its job. it should be a self bleeder. If this doesn’t work for you, please write back.Thanks,
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You might have air in the system. If your radiators have a bleeder valve, open them slowly until the air bleeds out. If you have a circulating pump, check that it turns on. Also, make sure all the valves are open at the radiators.
wireless thermo has 2 units - room thermo and furnace rcvr.
if thermo is battery powered no wires to connect - if not needs 24V connected - then why do they call it wireless?
rcvr connects to same 4 wires as current therm except at the furnace - 24v power and 2 control lines
I can't remember the color code except red/black is +24v/common
but I have found them messed up by "professional" installers so u need to verify before connecting or go by the terminal labeling.
In most cases problems with the circulator pump boil down to two problems. The most common is air in the lines causing an air lock. The next problem is that the pump gets stuck and is not running even though itmay be hot and seem to be running. In this cause the pump can sometimes betaken apart, cleaned and it will work, but usually it needs to be replaced.
Here is a tip that I wrote that will explain circulator pump problems in moredetail.
The vent pipe should be in front of the pump so that the pump pushes towards the vent pipe NOT sucks from it. I hope this vent pipe is part of the heating system and not of the hot water Pumps like to push not pull and therefore it is better if the pump is located further down - say at the bottom of the cylinder or lower. With an indirect cylinder, the hot water & heating are separate circuits and are not and must not be interconnected. You will need a separate pump for the hot water which should be taken from the hot pipe coming out of the cylinder. You may get vacuation in the cylinder - then you will need an Essex or similar valve to replace the hot water outlet connection By the way - The pressure at any hot tap is directly related to the height difference between the tap and the header tank in the loft [thus a shower downstairs feels stronger than one upstairs] email@example.com
Combi boilers are unlike regular boilers in that they have quite a few moving parts, it's vital that these are serviced annually if you want the boiler to remain reliable and to avoid expensive failures.
In your case, the diverter valve has most likely failed. Normally, when the heating is on this senses when there's a demand for hot water and temporarily diverts the primary hot water circuit to feed the domestic hot water heat exchanger. When the demand for hot water ceases the primary hot water circuit is diverted back to the central heating heat exchanger. The valve has a number of moving parts including a rubber diaphragm which can wear out and split and moving shafts which can seize.
When the valve fails it can leak and also can divert hot water to the central heating heat exchanger when hot water is used. The reason that only the highest radiators in the system are affected is probably because the failed valve does not necessarily cause the central heating pump to activate and circulate the hot water throughout the system (it does on some boilers though). If hot water is introduced into a cold heating system it will rise via convection to the highest points in the system like an old fashioned gravity circulation system which was unpumped.
Call a heating engineer out as soon as possible; I'm not going to advise how to do the repair yourself as gas appliances MUST be serviced by qualified persons only for reasons of safety. If you're lucky then the valve simply needs cleaning up and a few new diaphragms plus other minor seals and rings. If it's gone too far then the valve and possibly the manifold it's attached to will need to be replaced.
In the UK the part alone typically costs between £100 to £200 depending on whether it's just the valve or the manifold as well. The diaphragm kit typically costs up to around £15 and is routinely fitted when the boiler is annually serviced, and a new valve will already have new diaphragms fitted. For a routine service expect to pay for up to two hours labour (many can be done in one hour), but if the valve/manifold have failed it will be longer as one failure often causes other parts to need further inspection/repair.
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What is the temp at the boiler? there is a temp/ presure guage it should read 160-180F. If that is OK then check the circulating pump. When the thermostat is turned up you should hear a little water moving through the piping as you have adjusted the system. If you hear nithing circulating you may have a defective pump.
Some circulation pumps have a 3 phase mixing valve (cold,warm,hot) to regulate the water pressure in the building; no way to know unless you trace the plumbing. Basically, the hot water temperature could be lost because the circ-pump is cooling it with the cold water supplied to it. This is used to balance the pressure (aka Pressure Balancing Circ-Pump), so heater is really working overtime to heat the water. If the pump has two in and one out that's more than likely your problem; but you should consult a "old-school" plumber in your area.
i think you will find that instead of modulating as demand requires the boiler is overheating and then re operating after the safety thermostat has operated.
i wilud put some de scaler into the main heat exchanger circuit or add it to the radiators and let it circulate for a while.
also make sure the pump is operating properly to ensure proper water flow.
the problem there a relay stuck or thermostat bring on the pump & you can lower your high limit aquastat!! also the flow valves can bypass hot hot water risers time to put in a seperate water heater domestic coil are not energy efficient !!!! aquastat high limit set @ 180f deg low limit set @ 140f deg!!!
good luck!!! tim