No heat in the radiators in the upstairs of our home.
We replaced the circulating pump just before the season. When we turned everything on it worked well. Then we got a warm weather spell and turned the thermostat down again but left the pump running. when we fired it up again after a couple weeks the upstairs radiators did not get hot. I suspect a vapor lock situation but this is a sealed system and I cannot find any bleeder valves on the baseboard type radiators. How do I trouble shoot and fix this problem? The system is working extra hard to keep the house warm. Now that the colder air upstairs naturally finds its way down stairs.
Re: No heat in the radiators in the upstairs of our home.
Hi, What your looking for is called a (hy-vent). it bleeds air out of a system. you should have one on the top of your expansion tank. it is 1-1/2" in diameter and about 3" long. there is a little cap on top, unscrew the cap off. it looks like a bicycle tire valve. press the stem down inside until water comes out, then put the cap back on leave the cap loose so the hy-vent can do its job. it should be a self bleeder. If this doesn’t work for you, please write back.Thanks,
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Don't know your specific unit, but in general, heating systems are two-stage devices:
1: Its too cold: the motorised HW/CH valve moved to the required position, and on achieving it, the circulaion pump starts and the boiler is enabled. (The circ pump may start immediately - its not usually important.) The hot water from the boiler circulates through the heat exchanger and/or radiators until the thermostat thinks its target is warm enough, whereupon it disables the boiler, stops the pump and closes/relaxes the valve(s).
2: The boiler is off while disabled. When enabled, it heats the circulating water to a 'high' temperature and seeks to keep it there. If it reaches that temperature, the boiler will cycle on and off as necessary to maintain the set 'high' temperature. (The circulation pump must run all the time the boiler is enabled.) This may be what you're noticing. Additionally, some boilers will run the circulation pump for a little while after being disabled to reduce the temperature if the water in the pipes and boiler.
Your question doesn't say how the pump running corresponds to thee thermostat settings, but if it were stuck on, I think you'd know!
You might have air in the system. If your radiators have a bleeder valve, open them slowly until the air bleeds out. If you have a circulating pump, check that it turns on. Also, make sure all the valves are open at the radiators.
wireless thermo has 2 units - room thermo and furnace rcvr.
if thermo is battery powered no wires to connect - if not needs 24V connected - then why do they call it wireless?
rcvr connects to same 4 wires as current therm except at the furnace - 24v power and 2 control lines
I can't remember the color code except red/black is +24v/common
but I have found them messed up by "professional" installers so u need to verify before connecting or go by the terminal labeling.
If the zone valve was replaced and wired correctly then it is likely the zone controller if u have one. Manually open the valve and turn the tstat up if it begins to circulate then it is a controller issue. If you still get no heat (circulation) than it is the circulator pump or the pumps controller. Its best to test those individual parts with a multimeter to avoid buying parts not needed
In most cases problems with the circulator pump boil down to two problems. The most common is air in the lines causing an air lock. The next problem is that the pump gets stuck and is not running even though itmay be hot and seem to be running. In this cause the pump can sometimes betaken apart, cleaned and it will work, but usually it needs to be replaced.
Here is a tip that I wrote that will explain circulator pump problems in moredetail.
The vent pipe should be in front of the pump so that the pump pushes towards the vent pipe NOT sucks from it. I hope this vent pipe is part of the heating system and not of the hot water Pumps like to push not pull and therefore it is better if the pump is located further down - say at the bottom of the cylinder or lower. With an indirect cylinder, the hot water & heating are separate circuits and are not and must not be interconnected. You will need a separate pump for the hot water which should be taken from the hot pipe coming out of the cylinder. You may get vacuation in the cylinder - then you will need an Essex or similar valve to replace the hot water outlet connection By the way - The pressure at any hot tap is directly related to the height difference between the tap and the header tank in the loft [thus a shower downstairs feels stronger than one upstairs] firstname.lastname@example.org
What is the temp at the boiler? there is a temp/ presure guage it should read 160-180F. If that is OK then check the circulating pump. When the thermostat is turned up you should hear a little water moving through the piping as you have adjusted the system. If you hear nithing circulating you may have a defective pump.
i think you will find that instead of modulating as demand requires the boiler is overheating and then re operating after the safety thermostat has operated.
i wilud put some de scaler into the main heat exchanger circuit or add it to the radiators and let it circulate for a while.
also make sure the pump is operating properly to ensure proper water flow.
the problem there a relay stuck or thermostat bring on the pump & you can lower your high limit aquastat!! also the flow valves can bypass hot hot water risers time to put in a seperate water heater domestic coil are not energy efficient !!!! aquastat high limit set @ 180f deg low limit set @ 140f deg!!!
good luck!!! tim