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power to gas valve ok .. Replace gas valve after checking gas valve coil for continuity/resistance... with valve removed ...and power to valve ... try blowing thru valve from supply side ... stuck valve.... replace...
Need to check the low voltage circuit for 24 volts, the 480 volt to 24 volt transformer may have a circuit protection reset or fuse installed. All the 3 phase electric heaters use a low voltage control circuit for operation of relays (24 volt coils).
If you're wiring up 120 volts to the primary then you need to connect H1 and H3 together, then connect H2 and H4 together. Then connect one side of line (120 volts) to H1 and H3 and connect the other side of line (120 volts) to H2 and H4. Then for the 24 volts secondary X1 is one side of your 24 volts and X2 is the other side of your 24 volts.
For 240 volt primary connect H2 and H3 together, Then connect one side of your Primary (240 volts) to H1 and connect the other side of your primary (240 volts to H4. Then your Secondary 24 volts is still X1 and X2.
What kind voltage is the heater operating on, 24 volt or 750 millivolt? If it is 24 volt check the transformer & thermostat for 24 volts along with gas valve, if it is a 750 millivolt system check the 2 wires coming from the pilot burner area for 750 millivolts, if you have a wall mount thermostat, tie the two wires together and see if main burners ignite, if they do replace thermostat. I really need more info to help you more, this unit came with two types of gas valves, a 24 volt & a 750millivolt type check name plate on unit to see which one you have.
Move wires around gas valve to see it there is a loose electrical connection then with a volt tester check and see if you have 24 volts at the gas valve, if you do have voltage at gas valve, replace valve.Also check furnace filer make sure it is cleaned, unit could be off on high limit, check limit (s) control (s) with ohms meter for continuity, good luck.
Take the red and white wires going to your thermostat and jump them together. If the unit starts, you have a bad thermostat. If not, at the furnace, jump out the terminals where the thermostat wires are connected to. If the unit starts, you have a bad thermostat wire or connection. If not, you will need to check for 24 volts at the gas valve while the thermostat is calling for heat. If yes, bad gas valve. If no, bad transformer.
Take the two wires going to the thermostat and cross them. If the unit starts, you have a bad thermostat. If it doesn't, at the heater put a jump wire across the terminals where the thermostat wires are connected to. If the unit starts, one of the wires going to the thermostat are broke. If it still doesn't start you may have a bad transformer. Check for 24 volts AC across the two terminals on the gas valve. If yes, bad gas valve. If no, bad transformer.
if you can use a meter check for 24 volts at the valve when you call for heat. If you have 24 volts and no burners then the valve is bad, if you do not have 24 volts then another safety is locking out the valve
whoo tall order! well, since that unit uses a piezo crystal spark gap that's half the battle. go to the grainger site and find a 24 volt electrically operated solenoid for gas use. anything else won't do. next go to the white rodges web site and find a spark igniter with a flame rod flame detector 24 volt. you'll also need at least a 500va 120/24 volt transformer. a standard honeywell stat will do. I'm thinking the unit uses a millivolt generator to keep the gas valve open. you could substitute a mercury button cell to energize the pilot valve and keep the valve open. give me your email addy and I'll see if I can draw up a diagram for you.