I have a furnace in my rental home that I moved into recently. I believe the air return vent is on the bottom near the floor where air gets sucked in. there is a small closet door that hides the furnace. It has two metal plates on the furnace that can be removed with a tool. The lower plate has the air condition grill but there is no way to place a filter inside. It slants at an angle and when a filter is cut to fit it, there is no way it will hold. It falls. There was no filter when I moved in. The up flow vent has no place to hold a filter either. It is an old GE model # Bwv92461010 serial # 901924818. I don't know what to do.-Nancy
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
Re: Where do install a Heil furnace filter?
MAYBE IT DOES NEED IF THE FILTER IN THE COLD AIR RETURN GRILL MAKE SURE THEIR IS NO FILTER IN THIS FIRST , AS 2 FILTERS ARE NOT BETTER THAN ONE WHEN COME TO ELECTRIC FURN AND H/P ALSO IS THIS A UP-FLOW ,DOWN FLOW OR HORZ MEANING AIR #1 RTN IN BOTTOM DISCHARGE COMING OUT OF TOP OR#2 COLD AIR COMING IN TOP AND DISCHARGE OUT OF BOTTOM OR #3FURNACE LAYING SIDE-WAYS AIR COMING IN ONE END AND OUT OTHER THESE WOULD DETERMINE FILTER LOCATIONS
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
You are right to carefully consider your utilities for an extended absence. What temperatures will the home be exposed to. Will you leave any heat on? If you don't will the pipes freeze? If you secure the water, you may want to secure the hot water heater - again consider freezing. We can't advise you without a full understanding of how your systems interact but we can help you consider the important factors.
For clarity, a Furnace produces HOT AIR for heat while a boiler produces HOT WATER for heat. Just remember...boil = water. You said your "furnace" does not produce hot water for a shower and because furnaces do not product hot water unless they have some model that do???? Usually people with a furnace have a seperate hot water heater. People with boilers though can produce hot water for use as both their sinks/showers hot water and their heat (by heating water that goes through baseboards) in their house. I don't believe any furnaces produce hot water most of the time a furnace just produces hot air for heating. So figure out what you first have.
Having said that, I'll assume you have a boiler like I do and my Weil McClean(sp?) stopped working a while back and wasn't turning on to "boil" any water. I took apart the burner and there is a light sensing photo resistor as part of the controls. If this phto resistor goes bad, the boiler will not start. The resister is cheap, I think it was $8 but you have to know what you're doing to change it. So you may be better to call someone who can work on such equipment.
Boiler's themselves are not overly complex. Home heating oil is the same diesel fuel that you can buy in a gas station only the government has "oil" companies put a RED die in home heating fuel which is usually cheaper then Diesel fuel because diesel fuel is taxed to death. The reason they do that is so that if you try putting RED tinted home heating fuel in your truck and you get pulled over (because you're a trucker with and 18 wheeler and they typically do inspections of these trucks) you will be a huge fine if they see you're running home heating fuel and NOT paying your taxed by purchasing Diesel fuel. A little bit of background so you know the fuel you are dealing with here. So it's dieslel fuel without the tax you run in your boiler. Gasoline on the other hand is VERY explosive as you know, but diesel fuel (if you're ever tried to light it) takes some coaxing to get lit. When it's cold out, diesel fuel is very hard to light and that's why trucks use glow plugs. You don't need those in your home though.
But because diesel fuel/home heating oil is hard to light, it's sprayed as a msit into your boiler, so that it can light more easily.
But because it is a fuel, you should know what you're doing when messing with it. FInd out what you have, and then have someone work on the issue if you haven't already. I'm guessing you have had it fixed by now?
That is hard to answer but I would say that for a furnace of that size you are probably looking at somewhere around 16x20x1. On older heil furnaces they often had the filter mounted inside the blower compartment so if the case you can just remove the cover and measure it. If not it should be located on the return air duct close to the furnace. Hope this helps you some. Thank you.
If you have a filter in your line - this would be a good time to replace it. If it has been replaced recently you will just need to "prime" it by filling up the filter and screwing it back on (prime a new one as well). Or in the case of an element type filter - put the filter in the case and fill with fuel - attach to base. Then you will need to find the bleeder nipple on your furnace pump (attached to the motor) that is like that used on brake systems of a vehicle. Be sure and have a collection system in place (old bucket and a rag or two). Turn on the furnace and open the nipple slowly until air starts to bubble out. When the air is reduced to a flow of fuel - close the nipple - you should be good to go. Let me know if this is the solution. Thanks
your water heater will take a 160 amps of you service. I would not install one if it was me. The total demand in the dead of winter with furnace, water heater and lights on will cause you to brown out.
Hi .. it appears that your house is very tight. From your description of leaving a window open , it seems that the gas heater is suffering from lack of make - up air. Forcing the gas exhaust up the chimney will not really resolve this. You will still be trying to move air out without any air input to replace it. You may be able to install a spring loaded vent so there will be an air exchange. Something like a dryer or bath vent hood installed backwards .. this might work. There does not need to be much of a make-up air supply .. something like a 1 inch hole might be enough. I have seen this problem in a neighbors house , he weather proofed his house so good, that his fireplace would not light, no draft !
By sealed unit you mean that the burner air comes from outside of the house?
You have checked the heat exchanger for cracks by removing the burners and looking with a mirror and flashlight, correct, or had a service tech so?
The furnace burners have enough air and are burning clean (blue) with just a tip of orange at the end? You bought the house new and the fireplace has never been used? If it has been used to clean smoke for the house for whatwever reason I woudl start by havign the ducts cleaned.
Another possibility I have seen is insolation inside of ductwork breaking down.
Roscoe007 shouldnt speak unless he knows what he is talking about, as a heater installer i am telling you the ignitor needs to be replaced, the very fact that the ignitor does light for about 30 sec than goes out rules out any issue with the themostat, replace the ignitor!
is installed in a vertical up flow or horizontal position , if in horz position you could have a bad or miss positioned roll out switch this is a thermal switch positioned toward the burner edge that if the flame rolls out of burner area trips and then resets as it cools allowing the furnace to re-start until it reaches temperature , something to check .