I am having a hard time getting a good coat on. I am using a water base latex paint. When i first tried sparying right out of the can, it would hardly spray. As I thinned the paint to the max recommended by paint manufacture, it did a little better but still very thin.
I am spraying at 45psi, air valve open 100% and needle all the way out.
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Re: IR 210g - using thicker paint
We do have here cardinal problem... this gun is totally and utterly unsuitable for latex paints! it's nozzle size is 1.4mm, for latex you need at least 1.8mm and preferably 2.4mm, if undiluted even more... any trickery with air flow valve, paint flow (needle) valve or spray pattern will not work, latex particles are long, stringy and clingy - you do need bigger nozzle and that is all...
by the way - it is lovely gun, nice to hold and work with, but it is usable for fine particle paints only, regardless water or solvent based, it is fine gun, but haevy paints based on latex or bitumen will physically just not go through it correctly...
hope this will help you at least a bit, please post your comment how it work for you.
Thinning the paint is always best,but some gun manufacturers dont put on an air cap recommended for latex paint try using an air cap with biggers holes this will allow the paint to flow through better.It could be that the air cap you use now has to small of holes for the paint to flow through.
I dont have so much as a solution as a couple of things you can try to figure out whats going wrong.
make sure your compressor can handle 10.5 CFM @ 50psi
hook up the gun and dry spray it to check for blockages in the air supply
if the air comes through strong and constant, fill the paint hopper with water and spray until empty
if the water comes through constant, add half of the hopper with paint thinned with penetrol or floetrol
if the paint is coming out weak or spotty, make sure the vent cap is open on the paint hopper
if the cap on the hopper doesnt have a vent, try spraying with the cap off or cracked a bit.
if that doesnt work take off the hopper and check the filter for blockages.
i suggest straining all your paint before pouring it into the hopper
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Refer to the paint manufacturer's data sheet to ensure the new gun has the right setup for clearcoat.
Could be the new gun was supplied setup for spraying a high solids primer or something that needs something like a 0.7 mm fluid tip. Clearcoat would need a 0.4 mm tip, an appropriate needle and a different air cap.
Data sheets are very valuable things. Don't forget to pick one up when you buy spray paint. A viscosity cup is another useful addition to the tool kit along with a graduated paint stirring stick.
Try running it with "cleaner" first. In the case of Latex paint, use water. In the case of oil based paint, use Mineral Spirits. Make sure tip is clean (without sticking anything into it). Lastly (or "firstly") read the manual for info on initial setup.
did you ever try to mix water with oil? what was the result? are you sure that you can cross the street without adult holding your hand?
unfortunately you need to remove all that paint, just drop few shovels of fine sand over, and scrape it... sand will adhere to the tp surface of the pain and will allow you to scrape it. after you scrape it off, use any degreaser or similar product to wash reminder off, leave it for few weeks to dry through and then in small patch try if it would accept latex pain, roll it very, very thinly and leave overnight, if it is dry (solid dry) after 24hrs and do not peel off, you can then use this paint on the rest of your garage floor.
now, i would advice strongly against painting garage floor with any paint except concrete paint (they are usually water based with strongly alcalic ph), and after that use concrete seal. this should give you long lasting surface, sealed from oils, dust, water and whatever contaminant you can imagine in the garage.
The size tip you use depends on what you are spraying, how thin/thick it is and if you something like Flotrol to make it flow on the work better. Tip sizes are given as a decimal number and here's how to read them. Example: .517 (the one most people, including you, need) - The 5 means you'll get a ten inch swath of paint with the tip 12 inches from the work surface. 5's are for general painting, 2's and 3's are usually used for trim work. - The 17 is the diameter of the orifice (.017) the paint passes through to get properly atomized. The larger the orifice, the thicker the medium you can effectively spray. .013's are used for very thin things like stain. .015's & .017's are for latex paints, .019's are for enamils, and .021 - .027 are reserved for thicker things like elastomerics. Most likely if you are using an interior, latex paint, you'll need the .517 tip. Be sure to strain your paint so you'll get an even fan of paint and the best results. Even brand new paint has sand impurities in it that will effect the tips performance or plug up the filters.
Let me start by saying these types of paint sprayers are not usually recommended for painting large things like room walls because you're going to spend a lot of time refilling the paint cup. The cup only holds 20 ounces of paint and that won't go very far on your walls. If all your paint isn't mixed and properly thinned at the same time your walls could end up with a checker board look. You would usually be way further ahead to rent an airless paint sprayer. If you have to use it; first run your paint through a paint strainer, avaliable at any paint or box store (The Home Deopt, Lowes, etc). Even new paint has impurities that will clog paint guns. It's highly recommended you mix in a paint conditioner like Flotrol but not absolutely necessary. Next, you're going to have to experiment with the consistency of the paint to get a good even flow out of the gun. The thinner you have to make the paint to get a good flow, the lighter and more coats you're going to have to apply. It's also recommended to run a paint soaked roller over the wall right after you spray it to even out the paint and remove any overlap marks.
water base paints are out there but as far i know i think you should error on the safe side and use a resporator with most all paints........ as far as i know they havent fully improved waterbase paints to the point that they hold up on metal correct me if i am wrong when the car companys use them for all cars then i will! ( base coat clear coat is the best so long as you follow the mixtures as directed on the cans ( call some paint suppliers , savage dupont ect they can guide you on most types of paints)
What size is the jet?
What compressor pressure are you using, LOW is good >20PSI
You will need quite a large jet for latex paint even thinned. I have tried a 1.8mm jet and that still clogs!! Consult your local spray painter with what size jet you need.
I am betting the standard size of 1.5mm is way too small, that type of gun is fine with the correct jet size.