During a firmware update on my samsung S20A300B LED monitor the power was interupted and now to won't do anything.

SOURCE: V7 - S20PD TFT Monitor - Display goes off after about an hour

sounds like theres is a sleep fuctions with that monitor look in menu to change it.I guess you have checked what power setting you are running are you using windows

SOURCE: Samsung Syncmaster 760V TFT monitor & LED is blinking on and off!

put the monitor upside down till it comes on works for me anyway

SOURCE: Samsung Syncmaster 710n no display and no LED light

hello
I am a technician-informatic. I have repaired about 80 Lcd Samsung monitors with theese problems. I offer the repair manual.
Manual has been done with the experience of the repairing Samsung Lcd monitors. Manual was made by me and shows how to open monitor, how
to solve dark screen problem, how to check and replace capacitors, how to solve the problem non-optimal mode (without reprogramming MCU or
changing the main board) photo are included. 100% functional. The repair process is very simple 30-40min. (does not need a lot of
experience in electronics and expensive instruments) and is not expensive. With this manual you can solve problems by yourself and save
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"Not Optimum Mode 1280x1024 60Hz"
- The monitor turns on but turns off by itself, the LED blinks green.
- If you detach from the PC points to "control cable" the picture runs continuously in the vertical direction or presents while line , and
as soon as it is reconnected, the monitor goes off.
- The monitor does not turns on and dont dispaly anything, the LED blinks green-lit, if you detach from pc points to "control cable".
- The monitor turns on, works well some time, but after a window apiers "Not optimum mode. Mode recommended 1280X1024 60Hz"
- The monitor turns on, works well only with low resolution 800x600, when try to change a window that reads "Not optimum mode. Mode
recommended 1280X1024 60Hz"

the manual you can find on ebay (my ebay name is asnerejas123):
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SOURCE: Samsung 931 B - Dual monitor setup. one monitor

The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once inside there will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol! The other screen/monitor blinking(surging) is prob caused by the other monitors faillure and should stop when you replace/fix the broken monitor.

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SOURCE: LG w1934s lcd monitor's power led and display on-off blink

check to see if any electrolytic capacitors on the power supply are bulged at the top, if they are replace them