Put on new oil pump assembly, new bar chain clutch, sprocket, worm gear. Make one or two cuts and oil hole in bar plugs up with saw dust. Changed oil pump assembly because of same problem, thought maybe didn't have enough pressure but still doing same thing.
Just a thought: Is it cold where you are? At this saw mill where it is my job to keep chain saws running, learned years ago that you cannot use "bar oil" in winter. Need thinner oil, like motor oil. ....preferably a "non-detergent" motor oil, plain 30-weight is OK, HD30W will work, but the HD part causes the chain to stretch more so than standard bar oil. The bar oil literally is so thick in cold that it stripped the worm gear out of a Poulan Pro oil pump (plastic gear, anyways, wasn't much to begin with.) But thought you may want to try thinner oil, if it is cold where you are. Oh yea we also have 2-Husqvarna 359's with 20-inch bar, and use thinner oil in winter. Our Husqvarnas have an oil adjuster located on bottom, on clutch side. Straight slot screw adjustment.
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run it with the bar off and see if it pumps oil. I have drained oil tank and cleaned with gas(no run) then replaced with lite oil , run no chain and got them going ,or then gingerly run wire into oil hole and got them going, otherwise its tear apart time. If oil does come out, then clean your bar and your cover and use bar chain oil.
Your worm gear assembly is probably frozen in with sawdust and dirt. Take off the oil gear assembly. You will need to take off the clutch and the sprocket, the worm gear is directly underneath. Sometimes they are made out of plastic, sometimes of bronze. They use plastic for newer saws. If the gears do not turn easily, when you use your finger to turn them when they are off. then it is probably a good idea to buy a worm gear and then totally clean the assembly. Put in the new gear and it should work. Also check your chain bar check that the hole is clean. They also have a seal around the worm gear under the clutch assembly. It is good that you replace that too.
First make sure the oil tank if full. If it is, then check the pump and orifice. There is a small pump in the chain oil tank that is driven by the same shaft that drives the chain. First you could check that the hole at the base of the chain is clean as it could be plugged and not allowing the oil to come out and if it looks good you will have to work your way back to the pump cleaning as you go but this takes some disassembling of the chain saw.
Sounds like your oiler is not operating, try this please: Oil System Plugged:
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL). Post back (below) with a model and serial number if no ooze and I will provide an IPL.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Remove the bar/chain and clean the oil port on the side of the engine near the sprocket. Start the engine and look for oil oozing out of the port with the engine running fairly fast. If nothing, check the oil lines, tank filter, and then the oil pump. If ok, then clean the oil passages in the drive end of the bar and particularly the small passages from the large holes to the chain groove. Clean the entire groove and check the sprocket (if equipped) at the far end. Reassemble the bar and chain, then adjust the bar so that the chain doesn't droop from the lower edge (the teeth cut toward you on the bottom) and the chain moves easily by hand. Hope this helps!
Take the bar and chain off of the engine, clean the oil port area (near the rear of the bar) of sawdust and dirt. Start the engine and observe the port--does it exude a small stream of oil? If so, the pump and oil line(s) are ok. Clean all of the oil passages at the drive end of the bar including two small passages that go from each of the large holes into the chain groove (use compressed air if available). Clean the entire chain groove and the far end sprocket, then reassemble the bar and chain. Pay attention to the chain direction--it should cut on the bottom with the chain being pulled toward you. Proper oiling is indicated when the engine is running fast and the sprocket end throws off a thin line of oil on paper or cardboard with several moments of running. If you got no oil at all from the oil port, the pump could have failed, the filter in the oil tank may be plugged, or there is a bad oil line to the pump. Suggest professional service if the pump appears dead. Hope this helps!
HI There I have the same problem with the same chainsaw. I have stripped mine down and it's fairly simple to gain access to the oil pump. Mine has turned out to be the worm gear that turns the pump and possibly the pump. I am going to replace both but can't find a supplier for the pump and worm gear, if anyone can help me with a supplier that would be great. As for stripping out the pump you have to remove the gear wheel to do this you have to remove the spark plug and insert a tool to stop the engine turning while you tap the gear wheel off. there should be an arrow on the gear wheel but it will be a left hand thread. once this is off thereare a couple of collars around the shaft that will slide off then there is a couple of screws to take a plastic plate off this has to come next. once this is off there is the worm that is like a washer that sits on the shaft and rotates and has a thread on the underside that turns the pump. then there are two screws holding the pump in. Hope this helps.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear. Please see the IPL to aid in oiler component identification.
You provide no make, model or serial number. Post back with these and I can provide considerably more help. HTH Lou