Question about Beverage-Air Beverage Air 2- Tap Unit Model DD78 - Stainless Steel

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Restriction losing compressors all new parts except evap coil with no accumulaor, as per B.A. tech support 1/3 hp compressor with cap tube compressor pulling 9.1 amps low side at 14 psi high side at 205 psi

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  • moremoneyken Jan 07, 2009

    I do commercial repair for a living and Beverage air with a cap tube and a Tecumseh compressor is a service call that I know what the problem is before I show up to fix it. The compressor is always locked up. Always put a new compressor in and then find that the cap tube is partially restricted. (Suction low/discharge low.) If I am in a hurry or it is a bid job I just overcharge the unit and it works for about 6 months to a year. And then another compressor! Or I will take the time to replace the cap tube and put another compressor in about a year. If the compressor was made in Brazil you are up $hit creek.



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The cap tube is clogged and the unit is overcharged. Get used to this on beverage air units.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009


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Whilepool model gs6shamb00, Why a few second after the compressor shut off, the compressor knock loudly? The evap coil also shakes for 30 seconds to 1 minute. charlie T

I had accidentally overcharged a unit with freon one time (r410a freon), and when the unit stopped, the compressors rotor would spin backwards and make a loud "knocking" noise. This was on a scroll compressor, not a reciprocating compressor. Also, most compressors have a check valve, allowing freon to circulate in 1 direction only. And if it fails, when the compressor stops, the freon will rush opposite its normal direction of flow, and will sound off as a knocking noise(again, I've seen that on a scroll comp). That may make your indoor coil shake. I've seen/heard that make the copper lines shake but never the coil. Hope this helps! And FYI... Most ac service techs can check "superheat and subcool" as well as freon pressures. Without checking these 2 temperature measurements, we are just guessing as to how much freon is in the system. Make sure to ask politely beforehand for your service tech to do so PROPERLY when he checks the freon levels per factory specs, which should be on the units technical data located on the outdoor unit.

Feb 17, 2017 | Whirlpool Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

New compressor installed- wont cool

Check evap for a restriction. Check drier to see if it is installed in the correct direction. Does not sound like a cap tube issue if you can verify flow with nitrogen.

Aug 16, 2017 | Beverage-Air DW49 Stainless Steel Beverage...

1 Answer

Bevairucr60a compressor running but not cooling the capilarry tube only gets cold about 3 inches evap does not get cold and condenser does not get hot but copressor is running jumped the thermstat think...

before you go replacing stuff, better check the freon level. It sounds that it may be low. Could be a leak in the system. I'd do that first. Symtoms point in that direction.

Jan 31, 2010 | Beverage-Air MT17 Refrigerator Commercial

2 Answers

Freezer not getting cold. compressor running , fans are runing. i cleaned coils

thats really bad problem. You most likely will need professional look at Your fridge.

fixing restricted sealed system.
replacing compressor.

Sep 13, 2009 | Amana ATB1832AR Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

System not cooling space it cooled once before?

Hi, could be compressor loosing efficiency, i think suction pressure is to high at 85, also it could be moisture in your system, did mechanic replaces filter drier on high side of system , when he replaces evap. install filter drier on liquid line, if there isn't one, also check compressor valve, you can do that by cutting or desoldering the high side from compressor, connect charging port to compressor, conect your gauge charging port, start compressor, pump up to between 150- 200 psi shut off gauge, and leave for about 1 hr. then check pressure, if pressure decreases, then your compressor valve are leaking, if it maintain same pressure, then compressor valve is o/k. you can do same on suction side, this time in vacuum, if it holds vacuum pressure, then valve is o. k, RLA(LRA) lock rotor amps, is amount of amps compressor used to start, but will drop once compressor is running, 11.6 when operating is o/k, does your evap. compatible with condensing unit?, is it right size. check also that you're using right type of freon, check condensing unit & evap labels for right type of freon, make sure they can handle same type of freon. but check compressor valve carefully, i think your comperssor could be loosing it efficiency, compressor could be your problem. good luck.good luck

Aug 07, 2009 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer not cold

it will be somewhere between evaporator coil on firewall of said auto and back to the compressor,sometimes the low side fitting is on the compressor body itself,also low side port will have a blue colored cap on it and red for hi side if (your lucky) and not 2 black caps and its retrofitted for R134a refrigerant( hi side) will be from (condenser)on front of radiator to orfice tube/expansion valve just before evap coil

Jul 25, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Does anyone know how much energy the traulsen urs48dt should be using per day/month or year? Note that the compressors in my case have moved to the garage which I assume impacted efficiency. I love the...

Ok, next question, when he replaced the compressors, did he modify the evap sections with TX Valves and remove the cap tubes? Per Traulsen specs, all remote units are factory set with TX valves while local units are equipped with cap tubes. If this modification was not done, it may be your cause of excessive electical consumption. Then again, re-reading your recent post, the compressors were changed to 3/4 hp? From Traulsen specs your unit came with a 1/6 fridge compressor and a 1/3 freezer compressor, is that correct? Electrical consumption on these are URS48DT 11.2 Amps 1/6 HP & 1/3 HP (1288 watts) at full load, while a 3/4 compressor is 14.9 amps 3/4 HP (1713.5 Watts) at full load X2 = 3527 Watts, or about 3 times original. I may be off target, but from what I can assume, I am beginning to think your compressors are over sized, drastrically and that the evap units may not have been modified to TX Valve. Let me know if this helps or if there is any additional information you can provide. Current compressor model numbers, previous compressor model numbers, complete unit model/serial number would all be a help in determining your exact specifications.

Jun 23, 2009 | Traulsen Commercial 2 Door Cooler /...

1 Answer

A/c compressor clutch will not engage

There is a compressor relay "fuse" under the hood (in the fuse compartment). It is black and has a "diode" symbol on it. I replaced mine and all was well. Good luck.

Jan 11, 2009 | 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora

2 Answers

Goodman a/c not cooling

It looks like you did make some improvements when you replaced the coil and metering devise. The fact that this system never ran right "out of the box" is suspicious. My first instinct is that the system is either unmatched in size or the whole system is sized incorrectly. Do your Heat gain/Loss calcs and see if it matches close to what is in there, both for the coil and condenser. Secondly double check that the evap you installed is matched the same as the condenser. In some situations the ID coil can be over sized by a 1/2 ton. But that is the only exception and it does not apply to all cases.

If the system is sized and matched correctly, then I would consider the compressor to be the problem.

Jun 28, 2008 | Weather King 10AJA2501AH Air Conditioner

4 Answers

After running awhile ac blows warm and theres no water in evap tray.

Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in the lines somewhere and it is low on refrigerant (Freon). If the evaporator spends very much time below 32deg it will freeze up and you will feel very little air coming from the vents. The evaporator will have ice covering at least part of it depending on how much refrigerant is has in it. No refrigerant, there will be no ice or water. If the unit is properly charged, the larger of the two refrigerant lines at the condensing unit will sweat all the way back to the compressor but the compressor should be fairly dry. Restricted air flow will also cause one to freeze so check your air filter. If the ac tech thinks that the evap temp was ok at 22 deg, find another ac tech. 22 deg evap means its either too low on Freon, refrigerant filter drier is stopped up, a blockage in the refrigerant lines, too little air flow across evap coil or it could be that the evap and cond are sized wrong. The evap temp has to be above 32 deg. If it has Freon in it, you can use soap bubbles to check for leaks at the solder joints. Turn the unit off first for pressures to equalize. Let me know. kstfas

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