Question about Beverage-Air Beverage Air 2- Tap Unit Model DD78 - Stainless Steel

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Restriction losing compressors all new parts except evap coil with no accumulaor, as per B.A. tech support 1/3 hp compressor with cap tube compressor pulling 9.1 amps low side at 14 psi high side at 205 psi

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  • moremoneyken Jan 07, 2009

    I do commercial repair for a living and Beverage air with a cap tube and a Tecumseh compressor is a service call that I know what the problem is before I show up to fix it. The compressor is always locked up. Always put a new compressor in and then find that the cap tube is partially restricted. (Suction low/discharge low.) If I am in a hurry or it is a bid job I just overcharge the unit and it works for about 6 months to a year. And then another compressor! Or I will take the time to replace the cap tube and put another compressor in about a year. If the compressor was made in Brazil you are up $hit creek.

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The cap tube is clogged and the unit is overcharged. Get used to this on beverage air units.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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Bevairucr60a compressor running but not cooling the capilarry tube only gets cold about 3 inches evap does not get cold and condenser does not get hot but copressor is running jumped the thermstat think...


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Freezer not getting cold. compressor running , fans are runing. i cleaned coils


thats really bad problem. You most likely will need professional look at Your fridge.

fixing restricted sealed system.
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System not cooling space it cooled once before?


Hi, could be compressor loosing efficiency, i think suction pressure is to high at 85, also it could be moisture in your system, did mechanic replaces filter drier on high side of system , when he replaces evap. install filter drier on liquid line, if there isn't one, also check compressor valve, you can do that by cutting or desoldering the high side from compressor, connect charging port to compressor, conect your gauge charging port, start compressor, pump up to between 150- 200 psi shut off gauge, and leave for about 1 hr. then check pressure, if pressure decreases, then your compressor valve are leaking, if it maintain same pressure, then compressor valve is o/k. you can do same on suction side, this time in vacuum, if it holds vacuum pressure, then valve is o. k, RLA(LRA) lock rotor amps, is amount of amps compressor used to start, but will drop once compressor is running, 11.6 when operating is o/k, does your evap. compatible with condensing unit?, is it right size. check also that you're using right type of freon, check condensing unit & evap labels for right type of freon, make sure they can handle same type of freon. but check compressor valve carefully, i think your comperssor could be loosing it efficiency, compressor could be your problem. good luck.good luck

Aug 07, 2009 | Goodman CLQ36AR49 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

A.c.is not cold


it will be somewhere between evaporator coil on firewall of said auto and back to the compressor,sometimes the low side fitting is on the compressor body itself,also low side port will have a blue colored cap on it and red for hi side if (your lucky) and not 2 black caps and its retrofitted for R134a refrigerant( hi side) will be from (condenser)on front of radiator to orfice tube/expansion valve just before evap coil

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1 Answer

Does anyone know how much energy the traulsen urs48dt should be using per day/month or year? Note that the compressors in my case have moved to the garage which I assume impacted efficiency. I love the...


Ok, next question, when he replaced the compressors, did he modify the evap sections with TX Valves and remove the cap tubes? Per Traulsen specs, all remote units are factory set with TX valves while local units are equipped with cap tubes. If this modification was not done, it may be your cause of excessive electical consumption. Then again, re-reading your recent post, the compressors were changed to 3/4 hp? From Traulsen specs your unit came with a 1/6 fridge compressor and a 1/3 freezer compressor, is that correct? Electrical consumption on these are URS48DT 11.2 Amps 1/6 HP & 1/3 HP (1288 watts) at full load, while a 3/4 compressor is 14.9 amps 3/4 HP (1713.5 Watts) at full load X2 = 3527 Watts, or about 3 times original. I may be off target, but from what I can assume, I am beginning to think your compressors are over sized, drastrically and that the evap units may not have been modified to TX Valve. Let me know if this helps or if there is any additional information you can provide. Current compressor model numbers, previous compressor model numbers, complete unit model/serial number would all be a help in determining your exact specifications.
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Sterlize my nebulizer


From Pari.com:
What is the best way to clean and disinfect my PARI Nebulizer?

Cleaning: After every treatment, thoroughly rinse the nebulizer to remove medication. Hand-wash with warm water and dish soap. Rinse thoroughly. OR... Wash in the dishwasher using a dishwasher basket on the top rack.

Disinfecting: (done after cleaning) every 2nd treatment day, mix a solution of 1 part distilled white vinegar and 3 parts warm tap water in a clean bowl. Soak the nebulizer parts (except the tubing and mask) for 60 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. OR... Mix a solution using Control III® Nebulizer Disinfectant and soak for 10 minutes. Rinse thoroughly. OR... Boil the nebulizer parts for 10 minutes.

Source: http://www.pari.com/pdd/pdd-faqs.htm

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1 Answer

A/c compressor clutch will not engage


There is a compressor relay "fuse" under the hood (in the fuse compartment). It is black and has a "diode" symbol on it. I replaced mine and all was well. Good luck.

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3 Answers

Capillary tube replacement


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2 Answers

Goodman a/c not cooling


It looks like you did make some improvements when you replaced the coil and metering devise. The fact that this system never ran right "out of the box" is suspicious. My first instinct is that the system is either unmatched in size or the whole system is sized incorrectly. Do your Heat gain/Loss calcs and see if it matches close to what is in there, both for the coil and condenser. Secondly double check that the evap you installed is matched the same as the condenser. In some situations the ID coil can be over sized by a 1/2 ton. But that is the only exception and it does not apply to all cases.

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4 Answers

After running awhile ac blows warm and theres no water in evap tray.


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