Re: REBUILDING FRONT FORKS ON A 1989 KAWASAKI KX80
CALL YOUR LOCAL KAWASAKI DEALER SERVICE DEPTMENT MOST OF THE GUYS ARE VERY COOL AND WILL LOOK IT UP FOR YOU NO PROBLEM I HAVE DONE IT BEFORE IF THIS IS A BIKE YOU PLAN ON KEEPING I WOULD GO ON EBAY AND BUY A MANUAL ON DISK FOR COMPUTER THEY SELL FOR 5.95 W SHIPPING ITS A GOOD DEAL. GOOD LUCK MAN
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the oil is SAE10W20 and you must put 325 ccm if you change the oil, and if you let it all drain over night 380 ccm (plus or minus 4ccm). After that, mesure the level in each cilinder of the fork. In the left one, you must have 120mm (plus or minus 2mm) of air left in the cilinder, and in the right one, 149 mm (plus or minus 2mm) . Hope this helps. Try getting a repair manual. You will find all the answers there. Best regards, Gabyshor.
I am not familiar with the Kawasaki Balius model, but nearly all front motorcycle forks have two small hex head fill plugs at the top of the forks. The fluid is usually a very pure mineral oil of some sort, but use only the fluid recommended in the owners manual. You can add fluid using a squeeze bottle or a large syringe, just make sure everything is spotlessly clean. If you continue to loose fluid, you will need to rebuild the forks. The job is fairly straightforward IF you can locate a rebuild kit. Once again, make sure everything is spotless or you will be doing it again soon. If you found this suggestion helpful, please don't forget to rate it.
The anti-dive valves are easy to remove...
Place the bike on her center stand, and raise the front wheel with a jack under the front of the engine/exhaust.
first loose the 3-way connector on the lower fork part ( brakefluid ).
Remove the 2 screws that hold the upper part of the anti-dive system to the lower part. You'll see the plunger. When braking, that plunger should move about 2mm out. It must be possuble to push it back in place with fingerpressure. Then that part of valve is OK. All the parts of the plunger are separately available by a Kawasaki dealer.
The lower part of the ADVS is also easy. Just remove the 2 screws holding them to the fork tubes. The fork oil will drip out...
When reassemble, dont forget to bleed the brake hoses at the top of the plungers...
To remove the springs...
Loose both screws on the upper fork clamps.
Remove the rubber stops on the air valves
Bleed the air out of the fork pushing the air valves ( some have only 1 air valve, and an equilibration tube just below the upper fork clamp )
Remove both fork spring stops. Caution, hold them firmly down while unscreing, to avoid the stops jump away at the end of the thread!
On reassembly, the stops must be screwed at 2.3 DaN/m (17 lbf/ft ).
The quantity of oil is exactly 348cm³ in each fork. Must be filled without the springs. Push then the fork several times up and down to pump the new oil in all the valves. Then with the fork down, measure the hight between oil level and top of fork. That must be 379mm.
Hope this all helps...
Don't know about an air valve at the bottom of fork tubes...