I pump to full pressure and it holds. Immediately after operating the spray lever pressure is completely lost via air (no fluid) passage through the spray nozzle. Pressure is lost in less than two seconds. All connections are tight and appear to be sealed.
Your dip tube inside the tank has come loose or has a leak near the top. instead of fluid being pushed up the dip tube into the wand hose the air in the tank is just escaping. You will have to remove the wand hose and figure out where the leak is and fix the dip tube.
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like most pumps; air, hydraulic, etc. there is a one-way valve with a ball or flap mechanism. If a small particle gets stuck preventing it from sealing, it'll leak pressure preventing it from building up. an easy way to try to clean this valve is to apply some air pressure to the hose end of the sprayer while operating the handle. your instruction booklet may cover this.
Pressure test: pump it several times then open the cylinder (like you were going to pour in more solution): was there a noticeable pressure release? If not, then your problem is in the pump assembly. Examine the end (the end which goes into the tank) flapper valve. While the pump is out of the tank, pump it a few times. Do you see/hear the flapper move with inflowing air? If not, herein lies your problem. Put a few drops of oil down the assembly where the pump slides up/down. Work the pump a few times. If this does not solve the problem, try to dissamble the pump mechanism and MAYBE you will be able to replace faulty intern parts/gasket. If you DO have internal pressure in the tank, yet no spraying action: disassemble all parts coming after the pump. Hose, off/on switch/lever, spray tip. Yes, it will completely disassemble. Inspect/clean everything/blow out the spray tip or use a thin needle to clean the tip. While you have everything apart, use "silicon plumbers' grease" and generously lube all of the o-rings: this will afford a very good seal and prevent pressure loss. You can buy the plumbers' grease at the big box stores or plumbing supply places. Good luck.
I loss pressure, read the manual, took the slide out and saw that the o-ring was crimped out of shape, thus the loss of seal and no pressure! Popped it back to position and it spray is now powerful as day 1...patience is rewarded!
pour about one cup of water with a dash ( tablespoon) of liquid dish washing solution onto the top of the container trying to get as much of the mixture into the handle void of the sprayer chamber. You are trying to lubricate and clean the pump. If this doesn't help the pump to build up pressure then you can look for two clips around the top where the handle and bump body are connected. If you can seperate these two parts you can see the O-ring at the bottom of the pump handle and confirm it is clean and smooth. Rub some crisco yes, crisco on it to get it lubricated and put back the plunger into the body and make sure the clips snap back together. Now turn the completed piece upside down and see the little round rubber piece? Carefully rotate it and confirm that it fits snugly onto the bottom of the assembly. Do not pull it out!! If it is old it may break. So far are you still with me?? Good! Put it back together ( putting a little crisco on the gasket between the tank and the pump assembly won't hurt here either) try to pump up the pressure. We done yet?? No? builds pressure but won't spray? Well on to the wand. Feel lucky?? Take off the wand AFTER the spray valve the thing you push to get the spray out. Try to see if the water comes out easily under the pressure you pumped up. Careful, at the very least you have the soapy water plus God know what left over in the tank as you do this. We just want to see if there is any blockage from the tank to the valve. Unless you got foreign matter into the tank of the sprayer this should not have a blockage here. You can take the valve apart but it can be a problem sometimes PLUS Remove the pressure before you do it. Work your way down to the tip to see where the blockage is. Most often it is at the tip just behind the removable cap. The cap itself can become blocked. I carefully blow out any crud. I use air from my lungs blowing from my mouth but do not recommend this method especially if posions are being used. More often it is the holes in the wand that allow the pressured spray to come out. A paper clip works great here. Bend open and clean out the holes. DO NOT use the paper clip on the cap!! you will enlarge the hole and ruin the spray pattern. If after all this you still can't get it to work properly sometimes using some of those lime away products can clean out the hardened crud.
Take the strainer at the end of the hose on the tank off. Throughly clean it. I used an old tooth brush, then ran hot water through it several times. Also drained the tank and flushed it out 3-4 times with fresh water, then ran fresh water through the pump for several minutes
We use the both the 425 and 475 solo sprayers most days at work and when they start to lose pressure ( after 6 months of daily professional use) we purchase a complete seal kit and put it through them. The only part I can't work out how to remove is the inside cylinder, other than that everything else is easily removed and replaced.
Hose end sprayers are the simplest and least expensive of the category. A sprayer jar is attached to a regular garden sprayer. Concentrated material is added to the sprayer jar. An adjustment on the jar determines the amount delivered. The force of the water through the hose pulls the material up from the jar and mixes and dilutes it with the water. A built-in anti-siphon device prevents unused material from being pulled back into your water supply.
Compression or tank sprayers are the most common type of spray equipment. Concentrated material is added to the tank. Water is then added to a marked fill line. The remaining air is pressurized by pumping the handle a designated number of times. A control lever on the wand controls the spray pattern and amount. Compression sprayers provide a precise, on target, non-drift spray good for soil and lawn pests. Adjust the sprayer for a coarse, drenching spray, a concentrated stream or a fine mist.
Tank capacities range from 1 quart to over 3 gallon for handheld models. Homeowner type backpack sprayers hold up 4 gallons. The tanks may be made from polyethylene plastic, galvanized steel or stainless steel.
In addition to treatments for pests and diseases, compression sprayers are designed for applying cleaning solutions for decks and siding.
Backpack sprayers are operated in the same manner as the handheld compression sprayer. The over-the-shoulder configuration makes it easier to carry the heavier load of material. Some backpack models also use a lever-style pump to maintain pressure without removing the unit form your back.
Powered sprayers rely on a gasoline engine for spray power. Great for larger yards or gardens due to portability and capacity (12 gallons).
Dusters are a slightly different breed. Dry powders (mostly for blooming plants such as roses) are added to a canister and applied by manually pumping.
NOTE: Compression sprayers deliver liquid under pressure. Compression sprayers are powerful and efficient tools. This fact also makes them potentially dangerous. Always read the manufacturer's instructions and safety precautions carefully.