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You should call your vendor for service. Especially if this equipment is on loan.
*** The following is for information only. All repairs should be performed by a qualified tech.***
Okay, I'm NOT going to ask how you turn the burrs.
* The starter capacitor is bad or disconnected. It's the bulge on the top of the motor.
* There usually a schematic on the back plate or panel.
* Go to bunn.com to download the Bunn manual which has the wiring diagram on the back pages. This should be a FREE download. AVOID using the word "manual" as it will re-direct you to scam sites that charge for free stuff.
* I know following the wires is a bit tricky.. Especially on the G9-2 with everything doubled. Take your time or seek help from a tech or your vendor.
* The capacitor is round and usually attached to the motor like a 'hump' on the side or near the top. If you didn't take it apart then one of the wires in the switching side may be miss wired or loose. Check both for loose and correct wired. Careful around the capacitor as it may still have a charge!
* The capacitor is used to kick start the motor with it's heavy burr plates. Oh, and if your still having problems with low power. Check the motor for burnt smell as you may have overheated and fried the motor. They usually have thermal resets, but if you kept forcing the reset to keep grinding then the motor is defiantly burnt out.
PS. Removing the rotor can be tricky. I did have one with a bolt ground up between the two plates. Hammer time! Not fun. Try a large gear puller but you really have to be careful and not damage the shaft. Check the manual to make sure you have all the parts assembled right. There is a 'button' that goes under the adjustment screw. Looks like a nickle with a dent in it. Also adjusting the burrs too far out will grind metal (from the case) or grind the burrs if it's too far in. Many try to grind stuff to "Espresso" fine grind to get more flavor from the brew but this just shortens the life of the burr plates and overheat the motor which is not rated for this fine a grind. (use a G3 or espresso grinder for this purpose.)
Removal Step-1: Remove beans that are in the bean hopper without spilling them inside. (Use Vacuum). Step-2: Remove the beans container by removing 3 phillips head screws. Remove the rubber gasket from below the hopper. At this stage the upper burr will be visible. Step-3: Rotate counter-clockwise the outer ring of the grinder assembly (the ring has gears half way around), until the red mark is at the 9 o’clock position, looking at it from the front of the machine. Step-4: Lift the upper burr by using the fins that are on top. Press lightly on the doser adjustment gear, to clear it from the dose adjustment gear. Cleaning- At this stage, the grinding chamber will be exposed. Clean out any crushed coffee in the grinder chamber and the burrs. Use Vacuum and cleaning brush. To Re-Assemble Step-1: With the red mark on the outer ring still at the 9 o’clock position, replace the upper burr back into the grinder. Make sure that the red line (on the upper burr) is at the 3 o’clock position. This position will align the other tabs as well. During re-installation, press slightly on the doser adjustment gear so the upper burr will clear it as it is placed back in. Step-2: With the Upper burr in place, rotate the outer ring clockwise until it stops. The two red marks should be aligned at the 3 o’clock position underneath the doser adjustment gear. Step-3: Replace the soft rubber gasket back on the upper burr. Use the fins to align it properly. Step-4: Slide the doser adjustment gear toward the front of the machine until it stops. Step-5: Before replacing the bean hopper, rotate the grinder adjustment wheel to Zero (0), and the doser adjustment wheel to Minus symbol (-). Place the bean hopper into position on the machine, slightly adjusting each adjustment wheel as you are placing it down in the machine. Once in place, fasten the bean container with the 3 screws. Test each adjustment wheel through the full range of motion. The grinder knob rotates from 0 to 18 and back, and doser knob from Minus (-) to Plus (+) and back. Now position the grinder adjustment knob at Eight (8) and the doser adjustment knob to the halfway point between the Plus (+) and the Minus (-) marks. This will put the machine back to the factory setting. When using for the first time after adjusting the grinder, it may take more than one grinding cycles to make the first cup of coffee.
Check bunn.com for a free download of your model's manual.
You should contact your vendor for service.
*** the following is for information only. Service should be performed by a qualified tech.***
* Most Bunn grinders usually have an adjustment screw in the middle of the burr plate housing.
* LPG is under the bottom chute. It's hard to see and you may need a mirror. Take a stubby flat blade screw driver in the slot and turn as needed, but go a quarter turn at a time!
* G2/3 have a large dial with the grind sizes clearly marked out. There is an adjust/calibration screw in the center of the knob.
* G9 have a large bolt in the center of the burr with a slot that could fit a quarter coin in it. You must un tighten the locking nut to turn it. Make sure you lock it down again after the adjustment.
* Final; if there any loud noise or grinding metal sounds or the motor hums and stops. Then turn off grinder right away. Back off whatever you did last and try again. If it's still making noises then unplug and call your vendor for service.
Check the overdrive wire coming out of the bottom of the gear shift lever. My 98 Gr Mar. had a tiny burr in the wire there. You will need to remove the whole gear shift lever cover, the ignition key ( in order to get the top piece off) and the bottom metal plate under the plastic cover on the bottom of the steering column. This is all very simple and quite easy. Just go on line to find how simple it is to remove the key.The wire had a bare spot right near the bottom of the shift lever and all I did was electric tape it up!
Clean your burr mill before using it for the first time. Then, to ensure optimal mill function and durability, clean it regularly following these simple steps.
Always unplug your burr mill after use and before cleaning.
Open the hopper lid. Empty any whole beans from the hopper. Remove the top burr mill by rotating it clockwise. For better results hold the grind setting button while rotating the burr mill clockwise. This will allow you to clean the grinding wheel and the grinding compartment.
Clean the interior recesses with a soft brush. Note: Never use water or liquid for cleaning the lower grinding section of this appliance. BRUSH NOT INCLUDED.
Wipe the whole bean hopper, its lid and the mill exterior with a damp cloth.
The ground coffee chamber and lid can be washed in mild detergent and water. They both are top rack dishwasher safe. Do not immerse the mill or the whole bean hopper in water or any other liquid or place in dishwasher. Use only non-abrasive cleaners to remove stains.
After completely drying the whole bean hopper and top burr mill, replace the burr mill in position by aligning snaps with receptacle and rotating counterclockwise to lock it in position. For better results, hold the grind setting button while rotating the burr mill counterclockwise. Once the burr mill is in position, pull gently to check it is properly locked in position. If the burr mill comes out, repeat this step again.
Replace the ground coffee chamber and lid, making sure both snap securely into place.
oooooooooppppppppppsssssssssssssssss you should not do this
the knob keeps two burrs together .The knob forces the screw (when you turn for grinding quality). and adjust burrs far and close as needed .reinstall it and turn the knob to the right until you feel tightness.Then,turn to the left 3 turns. and then adjust the grinding quality whatever you like . thanks please rate my work
It is fairly easy (if you have the instructions I'm going to give you) to take the grinder apart to clean it out completely. This would be the best way to clean it - by removing the burrs so you can get right into the grind chamber and grinds delivery chute to clean.
At least vacuum it out as best you can and don't add any beans until it has had time to dry out.
OK ... first take off the water reservoir and set aside. And unplug the power cord. While you're at it, remove the drip tray and set aside and remove the brew group and set aside. You'll want to rinse off the brew group very well.
Next remove the three screws that hold the bean hopper and lift the bean hopper out and set aside.
Lift off the round rubber top from the grinder - it has four slots that line it up so it'll be easy to put back on later.
Now, notice the ring with gear teeth on the edges? This is the grind adjustment that turns around when you turn the grind adjustment knob. Twist that ring counterclockwise and you'll see a painted mark - twist counterclockwise until that mark is pointing to about 7 o'clock. Now you can lift out the center part (the burr) - you'll need to wiggle it a little and you should be able to lift it out - notice the painted mark that would have been pointing to about 3 o'clock. Brush this burr clean with a stiff brush (a toothbrush would work) and set it aside for now.
Vacuum all the mess out in the grind chamber - you may need to loosen the coffee grounds up with a toothpick or a stiff brush.
Once you've vacuumed out all the grinds, there is a "chute" where the coffee grounds go through - it's hard to see because it will be caked up with coffee grounds. This is at about 5 o'clock in the grind chamber that you just cleaned out and goes towards the front of the machine. Poke something in there (a chopstick or a wooden coffee stirring stick works well - or the handle of your brush) to loosen up the caked up coffee grounds and vacuum again.
To really get this clean, tip the machine onto its back and open the front door (you've already removed the drip tray and the brew group, right?) You'll see a little trap door with a triangular shaped handle - this is right directly above where the funnel of the brew group would be if the brew group were inserted. Pull down on that triangle and the trap door will open. Vacuum and brush out all the grinds you can and you should see the other side of the "chute" that you were trying to clean out earlier in the grind chamber. Poke your chopstick or stirring stick in there and loosen all the packed coffee grounds (they'll be falling back into the grind chamber now). If you have a can of compressed air you can blow it in there and get coffee grounds all over your kitchen (oops).
You may have to go back and forth a few times between cleaning under the trap door with the machine on its back and then setting the machine upright and vacuuming out the grind chamber and then putting it on its back again and cleaning under the trap door.
You may want to tip the machine completely upside down so any coffee grounds can fall out. This is all very messy but you'll have a nice clean grinder when you're done.
OK ... now that everything is clean and dry - here's how to put it back together and get it aligned correctly.
Put the burr back in with the paint mark pointed to 3 o'clock. Make sure that the outer ring still has its paint mark pointed at about 7 o'clock. Wiggle the burr a bit to make sure it is sitting all the way down in place and then rotate the outer ring clockwise a little - as the ring gets to about 10-11 o'clock it should have locked the burr in and started to pull it down. Verify that you cannot lift the burr back up (if you can, then you didn't get it fully in place and you need to turn the ring counterclockwise again back to 7 o'clock and make sure the burr has snapped all the way into position and try again).
OK - now that you can feel the burr being captured by the ring as you turn the ring clockwise, turn the ring all the way clockwise (the paint mark will be pointing at 3 o'clock. Put the rubber cap back on top of the burr and work it down so the four tabs are fully through the four slots.
Notice the straight plastic piece with gear teeth on it to the right side, just above the burr. This is the dose adjusment - push it all the way towards the back of the grinder.
Now get the bean hopper and set the grind knob to zero and the dose knob all the way to + as far as it will go. Set the bean hopper in place and you may need to wiggle the knobs slightly until they line up in the gear teeth and the hopper can set fully down in place. Verify that you can turn the knobs and see the adjustments moving below (the outer ring should turn and the straight rod with the gear teeth should move forward and backward. Turn the three screws back in to hold the hopper in place.
With the grind setting at 7 or 8, you should see the paint mark on the outer ring at about 1-2 o'clock when you look through the clear plastic of the bean hopper - and this is a good starting place for your grind setting.
Clean the brew group really well (no soap - just water) and put it back in the machine. Put back the drip tray and the water reservoir and plug the power cord back in.
Now that the grinder is completely empty and clean, the first time you fill it with beans and make coffee it will take a lot longer than usual for the first cup to grind - it may tell you the bean hopper is empty - just select a coffee again so it grinds some more. Once it has ground enough beans to get them moving through the chute it should start making coffee again.
Hope that helps --- it isn't as hard as it sounds.
It sounds as though your grind is out of adjustment. The grinder is probably set too fine. I have not worked on a G3 grinder but I would think it is like the Bunn G2. On the front knob you will find 2 small set screws and one larger adjustment screw (in the middle of the knob) 1. Set the selector knob to finest setting (Espresso or Turkish) 2. Loosen the 2 set screws about 2 turns. 3. Activate the start switch (you must activate the "bag switch" behind the chute) 4. With the grinder running, SLOWLY turn the center screw clockwise only until you hear a very slight whirring sound (this is the burrs touching). 5. Then, back off the center screw counter-clockwise about 1/8 of a turn, shut off grinder and re-tighten the set screws. Check the grind in the "drip" setting by running a few beans through... the grounds should be about the consistency of sand. You should get a better flow through the machine with the grind adjusted properly. You may want to check the cleanliness of the hopper in the top... I have seen these dirty enough to impede the falling of the beans to the grinder. Also, whenever you remove (for cleaning) the 2 larger screws that hold on the front "plate", be sure to put them back in evenly... kind of like one would with a wheel on a car- Finger-tight then slightly tighten each on a little at a time (back and forth) until tight. Hope this helps.
all bunn-o-matics have a cleaning spring that goes into the water tube once you unscrew the sprayhead. if you want to take the unit apart go this route. unplug the unit. remove the sprayhead. remove the two screws atop the unit and there's a brass fitting that screws into the canister's top. remove this then remove the tray. when you have the top off you'll see the canister that holds the water. it holds three potfulls of water. there's two wires that go down around the canister. this is the warm element. on top of the canister is a round dime like device. this is the brew sensor and disconnects the main element when a pot is brewed. in one corner you'll see the thermostat. this determines the brew pot temperature. there's a cappillary that goes down inside the canister. where the sprayhead is is a nut. remove this and the whole canister can be removed. you'll find after you remove the top of the canister that deposits are hard caked along the inside walls of the canister where the warmer element is located. scrape this off. replacement parts can be had at the bunn site.