Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

5 Answers

MAYTAG MAH5500BWW Fails to spin properly clothes wet

Hello:

I have a MAYTAG MAH5500BWW SN A2946479CA front load washer.  The machine leaves the clothes wet and in fact does not spin and complete this cycle.  I had an honest repairman come out and 3 hrs later still can't find the problem.  This is was tried:

Symptoms:  The clothes are wet with visible water in the tub.  When the spin cycle starts it at times will spin slowly then stop then start again.  During this time pump may come on intermitently.  Spin can get some RPMs with no load but will go through a cycle of low to high RPMS multiple times.  The count down time may also jump back up such as from 2 minutes back to 7 minutes.

1.  Verified the water is being pumped out.  Pump is working fine.  Checked to ensure no lint is stuck in pump.
2.  Did a continuity test on the 3 sensors.  All 3 switches working okay.  Tried to short 3 sensors as well to take them out of the loop.
3.  Motor does work and will go up in spin speed at times.  The problem with spinning is that it goes up in speed then drops down then up then down.  Sometimes it goes higher than others.
4.  Tried to bypass out of balance sensors by jumpering red and orange leads together on control board.  No effect.
5.  Repair person called MAYTAG for help and ran all diagnostics.  Everything comes out ok from a diagnostic level.

Is there any detailed outline of how to bypass each sensor or a group of sensors?  Maytag said the machine might be out of balance and to just run a full heavy load through.  This didn't help.

Thank you for your help




ihave the same machine and problem ,tried to do a spin test and the display only showed "00" and would not spin very fast. it would stop and start repeatedly but get up to the proper speed

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  • dabawr1 Nov 22, 2008

    i didnt get the answer to my question from hermajai

  • dabawr1 Nov 22, 2008

    why doesnt the display show the spin speed doring the quick spin test

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5 Answers

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  • Expert
  • 367 Answers

Have you replaced the motor control unit. This is what sends the signal to the motor.

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

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  • Master
  • 1,239 Answers

HI SIR YOU SAID IT IS RUNNING SLOWLY AT START UP SO THIS IS THE CHECK YOU HAVE TO DO NOW test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be replaced To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Nov 22, 2008

    The washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn't cause problems. However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of noise, vibrate, or stop completely.

    If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn't work -- or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness -- the tub should be replaced



  • ABHISHEK.C
    ABHISHEK.C Nov 22, 2008


    Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here's what you can do to fix the problem:



    Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn't drain, examine the pump.

    Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine's tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer's finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it's easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

    Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn't drain, you'll have to remove the water pump.

    Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it's usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.

    Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn't put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can't be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.

    Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

    Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.



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  • 19,396 Answers

Tell the repairman to check that the water is being heated properly, and that the thermistor is fine.

If the water does not reach temperature because the element is defective, or the thermistor is faulty, then you ge the cycle not completing.

Tell the repairman to check also the Motor Control Unit, that is an electronic sealed box connected to the motor.

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

  • Ginko
    Ginko Nov 22, 2008

    Great , you refused the solution, I think you wont be able to see my comments from now on.

    If the display show the spin speed doring the quick spin test, then probably you have a faulty control assembly, ask the technician to replace it, now enjoy all the help from the great engineers we have on Fixya.

    Goodbye.


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  • Expert
  • 181 Answers

Not pumping out the water - if the washer cannot pump out the water, the washer will not be able to spin...check the pump for not pumping.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

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  • Master
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The belt that drives the drum may have either snapped or stretched, you can check this from the back of the machine, if the belt is still there and is tight then its programme or sensor error

hope this is of help and good luck

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

  • Lee Hodgson
    Lee Hodgson Nov 22, 2008

    this could also be the balance and weight sensor which has become defective, the machine will wash but will not spin. I had a similar problem with my machine and after a while i found that it was the drum bearings which was causing the problem, this maybe the case with yours.
    consult your user manual about correcting the problem.


    regards 

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The clothes are wet after spinning or at the end of the cycle please try each one of these solutions that i have provided below

Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning: If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine. If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician. Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess. Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

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MOTOR COUPLER; To test the motor coupler, restart the washer in it's spin cycle,let the machine runs for a minutes and then open the lid and notice if the tub is spinning: if it's spinning when you lift the lid that means the coupler is fine and if it doesn't spin that means you have to replace it.
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  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


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