I shot some photos at my cousins art studio and she uses some red ambiance lighting. I was switching heavily between the more creative functions on the camera . . . some with flash and some without. Now there are foreign colors in the LCD screen and my photos that are blue, pink, green and shift and shape in response to light. i can view pictures that i have previously taken and they look normal on the LCD screen.
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Different lights for different effects. If you want the best color, and want to avoid harsh shadows, shop on ebay for a Novatron power pack and flash heads. Two flash heads and the pack can be had for under $200. Start making money before spending more. The flash heads will provide great color, allow for adding umbrellas to diffuse the light, and allow for shooting at lower ISO so you have high image quality. The flatheads also have flicker free tungsten modeling lights.
You'll need to calibrate your screen and your printer - calibration is required for every set of paper and ink you use. It's quite a science and an art. I suggest you google "colour space" "printer calibration" "gamut" etc and read up on it. Alternatively you could spend a few hundred quid on a printer calibration tool, either the Colormunki or the Spyder print studio.
It still won't match perfectly, as the way color is created on a screen differs hugely for to how it is produced on paper.
Start with a properly calibrated screen first though (my money is on the Spyder elite screen calibrator and spyder print calibrator)
if you look under dashboard toward the top of the brake pedal assembly there is a little white/cream colored box mounted to the same bracket as the pedal, onec you locate this box all you have to do is turn the plastic unit 90 degrees and it will slide off the bracket, there is one electrical plugin on this switch. fairly easy job just difficult to get to
The Fuji S2 sensor is noted for this red sensitivity. Here's a few different approaches to getting the shot with the S2, all of which require some experimentation.
1. Set the "Color" and "Tone" Function options to "ORG". Underexpose the shot. Progressively change the exposure compensation downward until when checking the histogram, the red channel does not show saturation at the high end. Advantages: this is the simplest approach to getting the picture. Disadvantages: the S2 already had a fairly limited dynamic range, and this will make things worse for the parts of the photo that are not red. For the surgical setting and use of a ringflash, this may not be much of a disadvantage, since a lot of the stuff of interest will be red, and ringflash illumination generally is of lower contrast than directional lighting.
2. Set the "Color" and "Tone" Function options to "ORG". Use a custom white balance. The idea here is to have the camera adjust the red channel sensitivity itself, and leave the blue and green channels alone. To do this, start with several sheets of white paper and a red or pink marker or highlighter. Scribble with the marker across a sheet, then use that to set a custom white balance. Take a test shot of the red stuff that has been problematic, and see whether the histogram for the red channel shows that there is no saturation at the high end. Repeat this with progressively more red or pink on each sheet used to set the custom white balance until you find the custom white balance that takes enough of the edge off the red channel response. Alternative: I just tried out making a gradient across an 8.5x11" sheet of paper going from white to about 30% red saturation. I can set more or less red adjustment in a custom white balance just by pointing the camera at different parts of the page. This seems to work OK for me. Advantage: can allow the full dynamic range of the sensor to be used. Disadvantages: the experimentation period is likely to take a while to get the best results, and the final images are unlikely to look completely natural.
3. Set the "Color" Function option to "B/W". Use a green or cyan filter on the lens to cut the amount that the red color channel contributes to the final image. Advantages: this is fairly simple as an approach. A similar post-processing technique can be applied to the photos that you already have, by nulling out the red channel contribution and desaturating the blue and green channels to produce a grayscale image. Disadvantages: you lose the color information entirely. Since much of what you want information about is colored red anyway, the organs are likely to appear quite dark when only taking the blue and green channel contributions to the image.
Did you use flash? Did you use tripod? Generally speaking night photos with non-DSLR digital camera, W55 is non-DSLR, will be blurry unless either flash is used or a tripod is used. The issue is the camera shutter is set for a long exposure in order to get enough light that it is impossible to hold the camera steady. The color problem you mentioned is most likely your white balance. Normal white balance is sunlight at night you white balance should be Auto, Incandescent or Neon