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Krups Pro Grinder Brewer - water leak

My Krups leaks water from the bottom of the main housing unit- just a small amount that does not effect the brew but does leave a puddle under the unit daily. Also does a lot of hissing throughout the brewing process which I can live with. I mention this in case it might be connected to leaky problem. This unit is less than one year old and started leaking only recently. Thanks!

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  • Anonymous Dec 04, 2008

    Same for me... Water comes threw "rubber feet" on the bottom - weird!
    ThereĀ“s always lot of water under the machine, which cannot be good for the table at least

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Keurig B50 Ultra brewer

This is a known problem with the B50 which Keurig will acknowledge if you press them hard. Some users have suggested trying to clean the check valve just inside the water outlet but the best solution is probably to call customer support, complain like crazy, and take the discount on a new machine that they will offer you. Apparently, this problem occurs much more often with the B50 than with more recent models, which may explain why it isn't on the market anymore.

Posted on Jan 23, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My Krups won't brew

had the same type of problem with a hair dryer once. A thermal interrupter- I called it a planned obsolescence gizmo- died. I bypassed it with a silver wire soldered in and the hair dryer ran well until another part died years later!! Sailorb

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

cactus bob
  • 267 Answers

SOURCE: delay brew will no longer work.

electronics and steam do not mix mr coffee used to put the control boards under the front where it was warm and dry . now there right where the steam can ruin them ... you might try unpluging it and puting it in the sunlight for a day and see if it drys out another thing go to amazon find your model and make a review , this will help others not to make the same mistake you did BTW just so you know , you dont have a real mr coffee , sunbeam bought them a few years back and now its just china junk .... good luck ......please rate this answer if it helped, 3 or 4 stars .and keep me in the paid department . a 1 or 2 will knock me off the air . thanks

Posted on Mar 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: One cup brewer, says it is brewing, but the

If the brewer heats the water but it doen not dispense this is probably because air is trapped in the tubing of the water system.

To solve, use as air compresser with minimum pressure (20-25 psi) and force air through the system using an air nozzle that is long enough to reach into the hole into the area where you fill the water. Place your hand under the dispenser and ensure you can feel the air from the compressor coming through.

Once you clean out the lines, you should be good to go.

We have had our coffee maker sitting on our shelf "broken" for months now. We tried this last ditch effort before tossing the machine in the trash and low and behold it worked! :)

Posted on Apr 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Leaks water in the counter.

I fixed mine for 25p... you need to take the back off, and the tank holder out (2 screws each). There is a very thin pipe that comes out the pump - that is the leak.
Unclip the little clip and pull out the pipe and fish out the black o-ring out the hole.
Buy a new o-ring and put back together... no leaks =)

Posted on Nov 15, 2009

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: My Krups Grinder Brewer has stopped pulling water

Mine had the same problem ... all the lights are on, but no heating on the plate, and no dripping of water.

The KM7000 has 2 x MicroTemp G4 thermal cutoff (TCO) fuses which interrupt the Live line, for overheat protection. Mine didn't overheat per se, but the TCO blew anyway. Not reset-able ... need to be replaced with a soldering iron. I'll be happy to advise you to fix this, or fix it for you. Write me at KM7000@flightsystems.biz.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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You will need to pull the grinder apart & clean it out. Most likely cause of the grinder blocking up is a leak somewhere inside the machine dampening the grounds as they exit the grinder. They bind up, won't fall out and there is your blockage. You will need to find and fix the leak, there are many, many places for the leak to be, it's a job for a Krups Service Agent. I have outer housings with cutouts in them so I can run them and look inside at the same time to find those troublesome leaks.

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How can the length of the garden hose effect the amount of work done ?


Digital Satellite Coffee Brew Centers Model: BC302E-IT Twin
The Operator's Manual for your product can be found here:

http://www.grindmaster.com/docs/Ni90A-BC-IT-MAN.pdf

WATER HOOK UP


The National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) requires the following for NSF approved installation:


1. A quick disconnect water connection or enough extra coiled tubing (at least 2x the depth of the unit) so that the Brewer can be moved for cleaning underneath.


2. An approved flow-back prevention device such as a double check valve to be installed between Brewer and water supply.


WATER CONNECTION


The Brewer comes equipped with a ¼ inch compression water inlet fitting located in the back. Use a ¼ inch copper tubing to connect the Brewer to a cold water supply. Water pressure should be: 20 PSI min. to 90 PSI max. An external shut-off valve and a water filtering system with a charcoal filter are highly recommended. Turn water supply on and check for leaks at the water inlet connections, tighten compression fitting if necessary.


Hook-up using a garden hose would not be recommended; if the hose is too long you may not meet the minimum required pressure and will have difficulty filling the machine.

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Is this a lot of water, or just a small amount.

As the unit sits over time and runs heating cycles, it may have some vapor come out of the vents. That will cool and collect around the unit.

try turning the unit off for the weekends. If you still have water around the unit, then it may have a leak in the tank.

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I had the same thing happen. It turned out that the rubber hose connecting the water reservoir to the heating element had disconnected, probably due to grinding vibration. I found a triangular screw driver to open the coffee maker up at MicroCenter: http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0332974
After removing the bottom of the coffee maker, the repair took 1 minute and it is brewing coffee again like new!

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I would repair it, it sounds like the grinder needs to be adjusted (burrs may be dull), and the leak on the bottom may be coming from the small drain hole on the back of the brew chamber. If you remo;ve the chamber you will see the white water valve that the chamber connect to, if you look below the white valve the small chamber in there will be filled with water, below that there is a small discharge use a stit stick or paper clip to clear hole.

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We have a Krups KP1010 Pod Brewing machine. The brew button is stuck and is blinking, but will not brew coffee. How can I reset?


For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
The Fix: While Pod brewer is UNPLUGGED, gently grasp one of the two connector wires attached to the lid sensor switch. BE SURE TO GRAB IT FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND NOT THE BLACK WIRE ITSELF AS YOU MAY PULL THE WIRE AWAY FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND WHILE IT IS STILL REPAIRABLE AT THIS POINT, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE TIME AND SKILL CONSUMING.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!
Ed

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4 Answers

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it's possible, like mine with the same problem, that one or more of the plastic feet under the water tank has broken, then making the tank move and upsetting the valve underneath. My one always leaks clean water, never dirty and I have a broken foot.

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1 Answer

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Hei dory may be this can be helpful.Inside the machine take out the brewing group on the back panel there is asmall metal piston with 2 small orange rubber o ring.Try to replace that(is not easy since the position)were the o ring are locate is very unconfortable but is something i believe you can do it.That one is the main connector between the inside and the conjunction with your brewing group.
Good Luck

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