Heat pump starts up in the defrost cycle. It runs for a long time in this mode before finnally kicking in for heat. By then the house is warmed by the heat strips and the pump is now ready to shut down. Please help, thanks. firstname.lastname@example.org
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Re: My heat pump starts up in the defrost cycle.
My question may seem a little ignorant but How do you know your heat pump starts in defrost? You can't tell by "feel". You have to measure heat with a thermometer. If its because it "feels cold" your body temp is normally 98.6'f if
your heat pump is in cold air outside (say below 40 or 45'f) and its
putting out 85 to 98'f air inside your home is gaining even if it feels
cold to you. Hearing the reversing valve kick in or out? Just because you hear this doesn't mean its in defrost, it may normally start this way.
Now if its running for a long time? That's subject to your interpretation of long time. It could be normal too especially if the air outside is getting colder and your house is needing more heat to keep it comfortable for you. The longer the heat pump runs means the more electric it is saving you.
The one thing that makes me believe this is all normal is the fact you say the elements kick on and warm up the home before it shuts off. So heres one way to kind of tell where your at: 1 Are the filters cean? 2 When the weather warms up does the Heat pump run as long? 3 Does *** run longer as the night gets colder? 4 Does it defrost at times and you see steam coming off the out door part and the out door fan stop? 5 does it make a swishing noise just before it defrosts and maybe after it defrost? 6 does it make ice build up around the base if its been running for a few days? 7 does the air comming out the ducts test at least 5 to 8'f warmer or more, than the room temperature?
If all of these are yes then most likely you have a normal operation going on.
If the elements are coming on that usually means the heat pump cant handle the load by itself. Remember this : It uses less electricity to run the fan motors and the compressor < 18 amps in cold weather. Typically with everything clean heating output on a 5 ton somewhere around 50,000BTUH [a 3 ton will put out around 28,000 btuh and only pull about 12 amps] you would have the indoor fan motor running any way with either of the heating systems so it isnt needed to count for effiency. 1 heating element 5KW at 240V about 20.83 Amps and it puts out only around 17,000 Btuh. But the heating element glowes red hot and consentrates heat in a shorter time thus it "feels" warmer, which it is but its not cheaper.
If this help\ed you understand your heat pump operation and you feel like it is normal now please rate me as high as you can. If you feel you you may still ahve a problem please post it and the answers to the questions above as to narrow your scope of what to look for. Thanks for using fixya and good luck.
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Feel the top of the compressor is it hot? Usually when a compressor will start and stop this is called short cycling and it is caused by a defective start relay, overload and capacitor. Sometimes it it cause by a defective fan which when this happens all parts including a new fan must be replaced 241941004 Start Relay 218909913 Run Capacitor and a 242018301 Condenser Fan Motor
the fan is not a defrost fan? it helps to circulate the cold air into fridge and freezer. so when the fridge goes into defrost mode the fan and compressor stop running. if ur getting constant warm or heat? I suspect ur defrost timer is not coming out of defrost cycle? the heat is only suppose to last up to 20-30 minutes then back into cold mode? hers a trick u can use that may get u back into cold mode, locate the defrost timer in ur fridge usually at top center. then under the timer u will see a tiny slot or hole. if u stick a small screw driver into that hole and turn slowly clockwise till u hear it click? if its stuck in defrost , it will now come out of defrost and u should hear the fan and the compressor come on, hope this helps let me knoiw if u have any more questions
when the fridge goes into defrost mode the fan and compressor stop running. if ur getting constant freeze in the freezer? I suspect ur defrost terminator is bad and is not going into defrost cycle? and this will stop the fan from circulating the cold air. the heat is only suppose to last up to 20-30 minutes then back into defrost mode? if the defrost timer is bad heres a trick u can use that may get u back into defrost mode, locate the defrost timer in ur fridge usually at top center. then under the timer u will see a tiny slot or hole. if u stick a small screw driver into that hole and turn slowly clockwise till u hear it click? i, it will now go into defrost and u should hear the fan and the compressor go off , hope this helps let me knoiw if u have any more questions, lastly I suspect its not ur timer but ur defrost terminator> meaning is will not allow it to go into heat defrost. its easy and relatively inexpensive.
In this type of system (heat pump), the evap and condenser swap functions by means of a reversing valve, according to the mode selected. Evaps throw off cool air, condensers, warm air. In heat mode, the condenser is the indoor coil and it throws off heat from the outside air. Vice versa for the cooling mode. Heat Standby would be whenever the temperature thermistor has reached set point by the user and shuts down the system. Heat defrost is the cycle that reverses refrigerant flow and defrosts the outdoor coil by sending warm refrigerant liquid to that coil. In heat mode, the outdoor coil builds frost and ice on its surface.
. If the freezer is always icing up , you probably have the problem in your defroster circuit . The refrigerator cycles once every six to eight hours into the defrost mode . This is controlled by the defrost timer. when in this mode , a heating element located close to the evaporator heats up and melts the ice. This heating element will heat up any ice enough to melt It and drain out of the unit. I would check this first .
If your defrost element has continuity its probably the defrost timer you can turn it with a flat screw driver you will hear it clicking turn it until the compressor kicks off turn slowly the compressor ;off spot is just one click or two. When the compressor kicks off this means the frig is in defrost mode this puts elect to the element to heat up and melt any ice. if it does not kick in and the element had continuity then the thermal limit that is connected to one end of the eleent is bad its the size of a nickel and round. good luck
One of the most asked questions. There are alot of issues that could be of issue...but as long as the system has normal air flow across the condenser, compressor, evaporator and no extra heat sources (doors ajar, lights,). By nature refrigeration systems do one thing...remove heat, The way they do it is by moving / pumping refrigerant through the system. Also by design this cycle operates at determined times. These cycles: the defrost...usually every 8 to 10 hour for about 25 - 40 mins. Thermo hold, when the cold control senses fresh food compartment temps are as per the setting. If you deduct these cycle times from the 24 hours in a day, this means the unit run times average 22 hours a day. The fact that your setting is at 2 would tell me that you are not demanding alot of work out of the unit...it will be satisfied quickly and turn back on quicker as it senses a rise in temperature.
Need to check and see if the element is heating up when it goes into defrost. If the thermostat is bad it will not go into defrost. I purchased a new heating element for my GE and it came with the element and thermostat together. Also make sure the fan is running in the freezer this moves the heat through the coil as well as the cold temp when in freeze mode.
Sounds like your defrost system isn't working. There is a timer that turns off the compressor and fans then turns on the heater under the coils to defrost them. The defrost bi-metal thermostat could be "open" and not letting power to the heat element, the heat element itself could be bad or the defrost timer could be bad, that's about it for the defrost cycle system. I see this quite a bit and it's "usually" the adaptive defrost timer. Under the fridge kickpanel in the front is some paperwork and troubleshooting sheets. I think this model you push the light switch in 5 times in 10 seconds to force a defrost cycle for testing. With the unit running (compressor, evap fan, condensor fan all running) in a normal cooling cycle open the fresh food door and press the light switch in 5 times within 10 seconds. If all the compressor and fans turn off right away then the adaptive defrost board is OK and it's the heat element or bi-metal. I'll bet it's the adaptive defrost board though... here's a diagram of where it is and where to get one. It's REAL easy to get to and change out (then test as above).