Trying to checking heating element and thermostats
Removed the screws to the rear panel and it appears that on the top inner corner is tack welded. Also the sides do not feel like it wants to pull out, it did look like it might be the paint holding it on.
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Re: Trying to checking heating element and thermostats
The back is not suppose to come off ,,,,, on the front of your dryer you have a lower panel that will come down by using a putty knife or screwdriver ,,,,, about 2" in from sides at top of lower panel push in to releast the taps and pull down ,,,, the element and themos are there. Larry
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do you have body tools ? cut off wheel die grinder ? small cutoff wheels ? a spot weld cutter drill bit a drill ? a mig welder hammers sheet metal screw and drill bit 1/8"..? a pro will grind all the spot welds out with these mini cutoff wheels it mite be possible to grind through the spot welds around the wheel wheel well area or cut the spot welds with a spotweld cutter drill bit (air drill helpfull) dont grind a hole all the way through the inner support sheet metal when cutting/grinding out spot welds .Once all the welds are grinded or cut out around wheel well then threre is an area behind the bumper (remove it) cut the welds there or a cheat might just cut throgh the sheetmetal behind the bumper okay?. lok at the panel you are installing it is just like what you will be taking off okay ? if you are to weld the pillar high or lower pillar you decide make a measurement leave at least 4 inches tooverlap the new panel to the top ofthe car piller the hatch or trunk area take the rubberseal off the body take th inner panel loose and out put aside .okay ?it may be nessesary to cut the rear rocker panel near the door opening (look at new panel) measure and cut with cutoff wheel just through the panel dont cut deep cut the bottom aarea between the door opening and wheel well area at edge only the top layer door cut all the way into any lower metal sandwiched to the outer panel okay ? the door opening is where you will cut the remaining welds as to dislocate the panel entirely (dont grind through the under metal just the top sheet at welds )okay ?After this you should pry any reamaining parts of the old panel dont bend the pillar when prying panel off look behind the panel any glue ? body rubber cut with knike or putty scrapper" if theres any crosse welds you will have t cut the panel some more leave any truck floor metal alone you will need to hook back to this area . Once all the old panel is cut sometime in 2 or 3 peices you will began to try fit the new panel if the quarter is to be welded into the door opening area it is criticle to postion it perfectly first when you are ready to weld the new panel fasten it in place with sheet metal screws or rivets .Asuming you are a good mig welder you will begin at the top on the piller taking several places about 4 inches apart alow time for panel to col of wip it with a wet cloth to speed cooling .Watch the shape is it deforming bad if so you welding to close together but finish the top weld on the planel first until you have tack weld about 2 inches apart after wards look at the door area is it still centered where you can weld it ? if so good if not well not good . The next area wil be the door inseam tack weld at the top do bout 6 inches of this area then stop look at the hatch/trunck ara is it claped or screwed together ?(you should have drilled little 3/16" holes just where the old weld was dun it is through these holes in the new panel you will weld the new tack welds that attache the new panel to the body under support (structure) if no hole you will make holes before you attach the panel in place understand?)after welding the hatch truck area about half the way go back and finish the door area which is claped and screewed temporarily together last you will weld the wheel and then finally the area behind the bumper and if your welding the bottom to the eld under side the panel as some beginners will use screws on this under area because its the hardest to weld . when the whole area is tacked go back to the piller and weld it solid across and into the hatch or glass ,Speaking of glass they should be removed as wel will damage them the whole top of the car and any glase should be covered with fiberglass weld blanket if yu dont have one get a big cardboard refrigrator box and tape it to car top windowes where weld splatterso beware will burn spots on surface making a lot of damage . Grinde the weld down with die grinder and rotary abrasive wheel or stone . When the weld has been smoother with grinder it will be time to sand nearby pained area subjacent to (next too) areas with 80 grit sandpaper". After that a layer of body filler (bondo) is applied to the areas of the joint/s at the roof piller" and at the rocker panel joints use less hardener on the first coat as you will be doing 2 or three coats building up the layers and extending about 5 inches onto the top of the piller and maybe say 10 inches onto the bottom of the new panel okay when body is hard sand it untill it is smooth filling any low areas and re-sand after bondo filler use 220 grit then 325 grit then 400 grit prime filler and panel with grey primer and tape car sand primer with 500 grit wet and dri and wash paint then paint with same auto paint(color) over lap and polish paint .Reinstall any lights bumper cover and weather strip use come caulk or weld seam sealer to seal any cracks between the metal at the door or hatch /trunk area before painting .Reinstall any glass removed, take tape off add sound deadner" if necessary? reinstall inner panels ect. thats it "your done" clean up your car
The procedure is as follows:---
1) First of all unplug the dryer
from electric outlet for safety reasons.2) There are two panels in the dryer.
One is top and other is front panel.3) Both the panels are secured by
clips in between them.4) Take a putty knife and insert it in between the top
panel and the front panel of the dryer. Press the retaining clips with knife
and separate the top and front panel by Lifting up on one corner of the top
panel to release the opposite retaining clip.5) After the clips are pressed both the panels will easily get separated.
But take care there will be a connecting wires between the panels. You don’t have
to pull that wire while separating the panels.6) You will see the door switch on the upper right side corner
area of the front panel.7) Remove the wire harness from the door switch carefully.8) The remove the flange of the front panel to the side panel on
each side by removing the screws.9) The front panel will get separated from dryer after removing
the screws.10) Now with the help of screw driver remove the screws holding
the drum bulkhead of the dryer.11) Now push the idler pulley between the drum and the motor
assembly with you hand to loosen the belt tension.12) The belt will easily come out one you loosen the belt
tension.13) After the belt is out. Carefully lift and remove the drum.
Now on the lower rear side you will see the heating element.14)There
are wires connecting on the sides of the heating element terminals. The wires
are connected by removable connector.15)Remove
the connector carefully from heating element with the help of needle nose plier.16) After
the wires are removed from heating element’s terminals.Remove the screws
holding the heating element.17)The
heating will have to be moved a bit to come out easily. Before removing the
heating element out.Please note down the position of old heating element. So
while placing the new heating element you don’t face any problem.18)Remove the old heating element and insert the
new heating element.19)Connect
all the wires as it were connected before.20)Refit all the parts which you removed while removing
the old heating element in reverse
method. Take care you don’t miss any part fitting. This will help. Thanks.
Since the dryer runs, the thermal fuses are fine making a possible open circuit condition in any of the heating element, the cycling thermostat, and the high-limit thermostat. Remove the front panel to access the cycling thermostat on the blower housing, the high-limit thermostat on the heating element enclosure, and the heating element itself. Once accessed, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the large terminals of the cycling thermostat. There should be continuity on both parts. Use a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale. Continuity means zero resistance. Replace the part found with no continuity, i.e., open.
Check the resistance of the heating element using the same volt-ohmmeter set to the R X 1 scale. Replace the heating element should its resistance reads infinite (open).
The front panel can be removed by removing the four screws located vertically along the
inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to
the front shroud assembly.
Once the four screws are removed,
grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then
twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt
the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer. Reinstall it in reverse of the removal steps.
Unplug the dryer cord. Use a putty knife to release the 2 spring clamps holding the top lid to the front panel. They will be about 2 inches in from the right and left sides where the top meets the front. Raise the top lid and fold it towards the rear of the dryer. The heating element will be in the back left corner. Remove the hi-limit thermostat on top of the element. Remove the element retaining screw and remove the element. You should replace the hi-limit thermostat also.
Check the dryer dual-breakers in the house electrical panel--push off, then on. If no help, check for ~230 volts AC at the two slanted slots in the dryer power socket. If ok, the problem is likely the heating element(s) in back of the drum are burned out or the internal thermostat is open. To remove the drum, remove the top (push a thin putty knife rearward at each front corner to release latches) and then the front panel. The belt must be released (from inside the lower back) and the rear center screws of the drum removed. When the drum is removed, it gives access to the elements and temp control switches. Be sure to vacuum out all air passages and wash the lint filter in hot water and detergent to remove fabric softener deposits. Don't forget the air exit hose to the outside. Replace the belt on reassembly if heat damaged or badly worn. Hope this helps!
If it is a fan forced oven, the element is round in shape and goes around the fan blade on the back wall of oven.
To replace: Turn off power!!
-Remove side racks from oven, then remove rear panel.
-You should now see fan blade and fan element.
-You need to remove oven from cavity, then remove rear outer panel.
-You can now access element- it will be held in place by 2 small nuts either side of element wiring connections. Disconnect element wires, unscrew nuts. Element is now removed!
Reverse procedure to reassemble and test. If oven is heating OK, also check main oven thermostat is regulating temperature (ie clicks on and off), as sometimes thermostat can fail if element has blown
You have to pull the three screws that secure the top to the back. Then you have to slide the top off and remove the front panel. The heating element is on the bottom right side of the machine. Once you have it off, replace the thermostats and it usually works fine. I keep having to replace mine, as my outside "bird" filter gets clogged and the thing loves to trip.