Trying to checking heating element and thermostats
Removed the screws to the rear panel and it appears that on the top inner corner is tack welded. Also the sides do not feel like it wants to pull out, it did look like it might be the paint holding it on.
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
An expert who has answered 200 questions.
Re: Trying to checking heating element and thermostats
The back is not suppose to come off ,,,,, on the front of your dryer you have a lower panel that will come down by using a putty knife or screwdriver ,,,,, about 2" in from sides at top of lower panel push in to releast the taps and pull down ,,,, the element and themos are there. Larry
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The procedure is as follows:---
1) First of all unplug the dryer
from electric outlet for safety reasons.2) There are two panels in the dryer.
One is top and other is front panel.3) Both the panels are secured by
clips in between them.4) Take a putty knife and insert it in between the top
panel and the front panel of the dryer. Press the retaining clips with knife
and separate the top and front panel by Lifting up on one corner of the top
panel to release the opposite retaining clip.5) After the clips are pressed both the panels will easily get separated.
But take care there will be a connecting wires between the panels. You don’t have
to pull that wire while separating the panels.6) You will see the door switch on the upper right side corner
area of the front panel.7) Remove the wire harness from the door switch carefully.8) The remove the flange of the front panel to the side panel on
each side by removing the screws.9) The front panel will get separated from dryer after removing
the screws.10) Now with the help of screw driver remove the screws holding
the drum bulkhead of the dryer.11) Now push the idler pulley between the drum and the motor
assembly with you hand to loosen the belt tension.12) The belt will easily come out one you loosen the belt
tension.13) After the belt is out. Carefully lift and remove the drum.
Now on the lower rear side you will see the heating element.14)There
are wires connecting on the sides of the heating element terminals. The wires
are connected by removable connector.15)Remove
the connector carefully from heating element with the help of needle nose plier.16) After
the wires are removed from heating element’s terminals.Remove the screws
holding the heating element.17)The
heating will have to be moved a bit to come out easily. Before removing the
heating element out.Please note down the position of old heating element. So
while placing the new heating element you don’t face any problem.18)Remove the old heating element and insert the
new heating element.19)Connect
all the wires as it were connected before.20)Refit all the parts which you removed while removing
the old heating element in reverse
method. Take care you don’t miss any part fitting. This will help. Thanks.
Before replacing the heating element, check first the continuity of the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat located on the heater box, the resistance of the heating element, and the continuity cycling thermostat located on the blower housing. Replace the heating element only when it reads open. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat should any one of them is found open. The cycling thermostat must have continuity between its thicker terminals; otherwise, replace it.
All of the above components are accessible through the rear of the dryer. Remove the rear panel by removing the screws securing i to thedryer cabinet. Replace the heating element by removing the screws attaching its housing to the heater box then securing the new heating element housing in place.
Since the dryer runs, the thermal fuses are fine making a possible open circuit condition in any of the heating element, the cycling thermostat, and the high-limit thermostat. Remove the front panel to access the cycling thermostat on the blower housing, the high-limit thermostat on the heating element enclosure, and the heating element itself. Once accessed, check the continuity of the high-limit thermostat and the large terminals of the cycling thermostat. There should be continuity on both parts. Use a volt-ohmmeter and set it to the R X 1 scale. Continuity means zero resistance. Replace the part found with no continuity, i.e., open.
Check the resistance of the heating element using the same volt-ohmmeter set to the R X 1 scale. Replace the heating element should its resistance reads infinite (open).
The front panel can be removed by removing the four screws located vertically along the
inside lip of the door opening. These screws hold the front panel to
the front shroud assembly.
Once the four screws are removed,
grasp and press in on the upper edges of the front panel posts then
twist it inward to release the clips holding it to the cabinet. Tilt
the top of the front panel and move it away from the dryer. Reinstall it in reverse of the removal steps.
Unplug the dryer cord. Use a putty knife to release the 2 spring clamps holding the top lid to the front panel. They will be about 2 inches in from the right and left sides where the top meets the front. Raise the top lid and fold it towards the rear of the dryer. The heating element will be in the back left corner. Remove the hi-limit thermostat on top of the element. Remove the element retaining screw and remove the element. You should replace the hi-limit thermostat also.
1) Unplug the dryer and pull it far enough away from the wall to remove the vent hose. 2) Remove the screws securing the rear access panel, leaving the top center screw for last. Set the panel aside. 3) Remove the two wires connected to the limit thermostat on the side of the chimney. You need to write down & remember that the wires go to the thermostat and the spade connectors on the ends of the wires will only fit the thermostat. Remove the two wires at the bottom of the chimney connected to the terminals mounted in ceramic insulators. These terminals are part of the heater element. 4) Now go up to the top of the dryer and remove the two screws under the lint filter (pull the filter out first). 5) We need to open the top of the dryer now. Slide a putty knife in between the dryer top and the cabinet to release the clips holding the top down. Push in and pry up about 2.5" in from each corner (see the diagram below). 6) Grab a stub flat blade screwdriver or a short screwdriver (you aren't going to have much room), raise the top (use your head to prop it up) and remove the sheet metal screw securing the mounting ******** top of the heater chimney (it's way to the back and to your left). Before you remove the strap note how it is looped through the slot on top of the chimney. 6A) Some newer elements are now 1/2 of the size of the older style versions, picture help and more picture help and even more picture help. 7) Go back to the rear of the machine and pull the top of the chimney back and out of the drum bulkhead. Note how the chimney sits on two mounting brackets for later reinstallation. Lift the chimney up and off of its mounting brackets. 8) Lay the chimney down with the vent on the top facing you. Remove the sheet metal screw near the bottom. This releases the heater element. Slide the old element out. Confirm that it has failed by locating the break in the coil. 9) Position the chimney above the mounting brackets and carefully lower it into the slots. Push the top of the chimney back into the hole in the drum bulkhead. If the chimney doesn't fit snugly into the hole, check the alignment of the slots at the base of the chimney with those in the mounting brackets. 10) Raise the top again and replace the mounting strap and the screw at the top of the chimney. Lower the top and lock the clips by pushing the top down. Replace the two screws that were under the lint filter. Slide the lint filter back in. 11) Reconnect the two wires to the limit thermostat and the two wires to the heater element terminals. If the heater element terminals are different from those on the ends of the wires that you disconnected, use the connectors supplied with the new element and splice them onto your wires. 12) Replace the rear access panel and its mounting screws. Reconnect the dryer vent hose and plug in the power cord. Check for proper operation.
The heating element and thermostat are located behind the front panel of the dryer. you will need to remove the door, then the retaining screws. the heater / element is located on the left side as you are facing the front of the dryer and has to sheet meta screws (upper back top / and front bottom) which will need to be removed. the unit has several colored wires for the thermostat and switch. remove these (remember which goes where) and the enitre unit will come out easily.
You have to pull the three screws that secure the top to the back. Then you have to slide the top off and remove the front panel. The heating element is on the bottom right side of the machine. Once you have it off, replace the thermostats and it usually works fine. I keep having to replace mine, as my outside "bird" filter gets clogged and the thing loves to trip.