Remove all the case screws, except the rubber feet. Remove the handle. unplug both batterys, seperate the two halves of the case. A plastic tray seperating the two batteries will be preventing the removal of the bottom battery bracket screw which is metal. I drilled through the plactic to enable a long screwdriver to remove the bottom bracket screw. An extendable magnet was used to retrieve the screw, although not necessary. The top battery bracket screw can be removedat any time once clearance is gained. . What a PITA, stupid engineering!
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Remove the screws from the plastic shroud on top of the compressor near the air outlet valve. Use a screwdriver to remove the screws. Lift the shroud from the compressor to reveal the upper and lower pressure limiter adjustment screws. The screw closest to you is the lower, the one farthest away is the upper.
Turn the compressor on and allow it to charge. Make a note of the pressure on the pressure gauge when the compressor turns off. Pull the air release valve to release pressure from the tank. Look for a metal and plastic valve near the air outlet with a metal pull ring through it. Watch the pressure gauge and make a note of the point at which the compressor turns back on.
Consult the tool manual or tool manufacturer's website for the tool you use most often. Look for the optimum pressure range. You may also find this on a printed label on the tool itself. It should indicate the best pressure for operating the tool, for example, "Works best @ 60-120 psi." Psi, which stands for pounds per square inch, is the same measurement you wrote down from the pressure gauge.
Adjust the lower limiter control screw by turning it clockwise to increase the pressure, or counterclockwise to decrease it. Adjust the upper limiter control screw in the same way. Recharge the compressor, noting when it kicks off. Release pressure and note when it kicks on. Adjust the screws as needed until the compressor consistently maintains optimum pressure.
Replace the shroud on the compressor. Replace the shroud screws and tighten them with a screwdriver.
To take apart compressors you sometimes need special tools as well as the gasket kit to replace the old one. If you are changing the compressor due to a bad unit I suggest contacting Sears Parts http://www.searspartsdirect.com/ . The how-to is as follows: remove all air and rust contaminants from the tank by bleeding. This is located on the bottom of the pressure tank. Disconnect any power and tools from unit. remove guards over the belt. Loosen the electric motor from the tank base or housing. (I am assuming that your motor and compressor head are not joined. If they are then you must remove the unit as a whole from the tank.) By loosening the motor you should be able to slide the motor or remove it. Do this carefully as the belts can do damage. Unbolt and remove the compressor head from the tank by removing the air supply inlet pipe from the compressor head to the tank. This connection is easily damaged so use only necessary force to remove it. The brass that the line is made from is usually brittle and will need to be replaced after this for safety. I hope that you have enough info here to start if not give me a better idea of what you are looking at.
The housing has slots for the four legs on the tank to hold on to. At one (sometimes two) of those legs there is a small screw that keeps the housing from freely falling off the tank. If you remove the screw(s) the housing will slide easily to one side and come off the tank. Don't bend the four tabs as they could break off when you bend them back and will weaken the tank where they are attached to it.
Does this unit have a magnetic starter or just the pressure switch?Here are a few items I would check. Make sure power is unplugged. 1 - If it has a magnetic starter remove the box cover. you are checking the starter to see it has stuck closed. In the center of the starter should be what appears to be an indentation. use a screwdriver and push in on it. If it moves in and out freely it's OK. If it will not move you've found your problem.replace starter. 2 - Check the wiring to the starter. Black wire from motor should be on left bottom on overload. White motor wire should be on right bottom of starter. Incoming power should be located on top of starter left and right side. NO Starter, pressure switch only. 1 - Remove pressure switch cover. Inspect pressure switch contacts to see if they are open or closed. If contacts are open move on to wiring inspection.If closed drain all air out of tank. while draining air watch pressure switch contacts depending on pressure switch setting contacts should open around 130 - 135 psi. if all air drains out of tank and contacts do not open use a small screw driver and gently open contacts. They probably welded themselves together. If this is your problem I would get some new contacts. 2 - inspect wiring, left side of switch should have one wire from incoming power on top screw and motor wire on bottom screw. Right side of switch should have one wire from incoming power on top screw and motor wire on bottom screw. Good luck.
The early Hitachi EC89's came with a 40 microfarad capacitor to start the motor. This is insufficient when its cold, or the compressor hasn't been used in a while, or the compressor is still in its break-in period. Hitachi later changed it to a 60 microfarad capacitor, as it now is with the currently offered EC89's, which provides reliable and consistent starts of the electric motor. FYI: the capacitor is the white tube looking thing just under the black cover on the top side of the compressor. You can just see it without disassembling anything if you peek under the black cover to the best of your ability. To get at it you need to remove the black plastic cover. To do that, it takes about 20 minutes of disassembly time and a few tools: unplug the compressor, disconnect at least one end of the copper pressure tube (the tube that runs from the pump to the tank), remove the four main bolts that hold the black steel compressor base to the main frame, now you can get at the four phillips head screws that hold the plastic cover on, loosen (but don't remove) these four phillips head screws, then pop off the plastic cover (there are anti-vibration side locks that need to be disengaged- by using a long flat head screwdriver from the inside- to pry them and pop them off from the inside). Once the black cover is loose, you will either have to reach in and disconnect the two wires to the breaker, or unthread the breaker's little hex nut and separate it from the black cover. Replacing the 40 microfarad capacitor with a 60 microfarad capacitor (available at your local electric motor rebuilder- yellow pages) will resolve the problem of the weak starting motor that pops the breaker before the motor gets a chance to start rotating. Shame on Hitachi for not publishing this fix themselves.
It is in fact bolted directly to the motor. You should be able to do any repairs necessary without removing the pump from the motor. I am not sure of the set up of that motor. I'm not sure if undoing that plate will also remove that side of the motor. (Something you probably don't want to do.) If you see other screws or bolts under the plate I would assume that you are safe to remove the pump plate from the motor.
I would use an ajustable wrenck to try and open the valve. Being at the bottom and in the water, this is a common occurrence. to replace the valve, there is a Hex nut outer fitting (part of the valve) that you have to remove right by the valve "T" handle. Put a wrench on this and remove the complete valve. It too will be very hard to remove. When you install the new valve, use some anti-seize compound to make future removal easier.
Depends on what plan it was made in...
If you have the glass type sight... Only to the max you can see (top of site), then run it for a few mins, let it sit for a few more mins then add more if the level is near the bottom of the sight glass.
If it's the dipstick model that pushed in, there will be an upper and a lower level mark (holes, or checkered section) Keep it between the top and bottom marks.
Finally if it's the older screw-in type, remove the dipstick and wipe it. Set it back in BUT don't screw it in. Keep within the range on the dipstick from that position. Then of course screw it back in/
Mine had the same problem. One of the reed valves in the head had broken off due to metal fatigue. Take off black plastic housing with 5 screws along the bottom and one bolt under the handle (the front only). Unscrew the four allen headed screws on top of the compressor. Unscrew the discharge line from the head. You'll need part # AB-A640050 which is the valve plate assy. and possibly AB-9007012 which is the intake valve located in the top of the piston (if damaged). About $18 including shipping from Bostitch.