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Probably the motor's thermal protector is shutting the motor off because of overheating, and then you have to wait for it to cool off and reset.
Especially in floor cleaning equipment, dirt and corrosion can be problems. Dirt can built up in the motor housing and block air flow, leading to overheating. Make sure the motor gets vacuumed or blown clean with compressed air to keep its air channels clear. Also, wear may be causing bearings to run hot. It may be necessary to have the motor disassembled and serviced by a rebuilder before it goes completely.
This sounds like a problem with the flow switch(es) that control the operation of the pump motor.
When the pressure decreases I assume that the pump has switched itself off - check this before going any further, but I will assume that this is the case. (If the pump is still running when the pressure decreases then you have a really strange problem and I would need to think again).
The pump motor is controlled by flow switches on the outlet side of the pump - when the shower valve is opened the flow of water activates a switch that supplies power to the pump motor. There will be one flow switch on the hot outlet from the pump and another on the cold outlet.
I assume that one or both of the flow switches is not operating correctly. This can be either a fault with the switch(es) or insufficient water pressure on the inlet side. Has anything changed that might have reduced the pressure on the inlet side of the pump? Have you moved the water tank that supplies the pump? (cold water storage tank)
If there is adequate pressure on the inlet then one or both of the flow switches is not working correctly. To further diagnose the problem try turning the shower valve to cold water only and test the operation of the pump, then turn it to hottest and test again.
If the pump operates correctly on cold only or hot only then the associated flow switch is OK, and the other one is faulty.
Replacing a flow switch is not difficult if you are reasonably handy, and I am happy to provide further help if you need it.
You can do some troubleshooting by looking at the glass fuse after it has failed. If the element looks melted and there is no other discoloration, then the fuse probably blew as a result of an overload somewhere. If the fuse is burned black, then it's probably a short in the system.
You can meter the motors to see if they are shorted anywhere or open.
It sounds like you may be correct about the circuit board.
Some one missed the wiring diagram. I believe its like this: L1 = Line 1 = (Hot all are same thing) Black Hi Blue Med Red LO Now usually the black is for AC and connects to a normally Open (NO) contact on the blower relay. The heater speed (either red or blue) go the the normally Closed (NC) on the blower relay and on one side of this wire or contact on the relay it goes to the heating blower thermostat on the furnace. The remaining wire (blue or red) you tape off. L1 also feeds the Run Capacitor on 1 side and the Brown wire feeds the opposite side
The white wire is Neutral and goes to the neutral on the main line.
If this helps you please rate me accordingly and good luck.
you should have 24 volts between yellow and white wires at the stat when the stat is set to heat and set as hot as it will go. burners should light first then 3 to 5 minutes later the fan motor should fire up. if burner doesn't light check the wires going into the top of the gas valve see if you have 24 volts arriving there from the stat. if you do then the gasvalve is probably bad. you can bypass the action of the stat by jumping red to white on 90 percent of the stats made and in a few seconds the gas valve should click open gas flow to main burner where pilot ignites it. another easy check you can do is flip stat fan switch to on. fan should come on at once. if not then you have either no high voltage to unit or no low voltage ( as in a bad transformer). if the fan comes on you know you have high volts and low volts...by cover i assume you mean the decorative cover but there second cover with the mercury bulbs and all is still there. if you have only the bare subbase then new stat time. sounds like an old furnace if it has a standing pilot, it should be checked for cracked heat exchanger by a pro with a n electronic carbon monoxide detector. NOT a diy item due to the real danger of co poisoning.