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Starts fine, but will not accelerate: Homelite UT-10798R

Runs just fine @ idle, but when tries to accelerate, unit bogs down & dies.
I have replaced all fuel lines, fuel filter, & removed carb & soaked overnight in carb-cleaner & installed a overhaul kit. Removed & cleaned exhaust & spark arrestor screen. However, unit still does the same thing as before.

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  • Anonymous Jan 09, 2009

    i have a new makita chainsaw dcs 510. what are the right adjustments for this type of chainsaw? it just cannot start?

  • glomerl Feb 18, 2009

    500 echo runs but won't accelerate fast enough to cut. Sometimes it will go faster for a few seconds if I shake it.??????? Help Please

  • yadayada
    yadayada May 11, 2010

    HAVE YOU CHECKED THE REED VALVE

  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    Fuel lines came apart, Bought fuel line kits. but manual does not show how to run and connect.

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  • 14 Answers

Do you have the H and L adjuster screws on the carb? If so, then normally I'd back out a little bit on the L (low speed side of carb) The instructions for adjusting carbs, years ago, on 2-stroke, say to back out on the L when motor will not rapidly rev up. Most 2-stroke carbs have these 2-jets. The L is for gas to pass to motor with butterfly throttle plate closed. When opening throttle plate, there is a sudden rush of air, at first, and this L adjustment is allowing enough gas to pass for motor to begin to rev. up. Then the gas will also flow through another small port H, usually a small brass tube in the venture area (smallest diameter section of carb). You adjust the H with the throttle wide open, motor revved up. Turn either in or out slightly till highest RPMS reached, motor smooth and fast, then turn H out about 1/4 turn. The idea is to run motor slightly rich for highest HP when under load (cutting). Hope this helps

Posted on Nov 19, 2008

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Try opening the high speed jet about 1/8 turn. If that don't work clean the carb.

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Turn adjusting screws in all the way "gently" until they seat. Not too hard or you will damage them. Turn out 1 1/4 turns on both will get you in the ballpark to start it up. If it starts, let it warm up without going to wide open throttle for an extended period. As it is idling, turn low speed screw in until it starts to want to die down, then turn back out a little at a time until it starts to bog down, then turn it back in to the center of the two bogs (at the highest point of RPM). Throttle it from idle to WOT and it should be a steady rise in acceleration without bogging down. If it does bog on acceleration, turn the Low speed screw counterclockwise 1/8 turn at a time until bog goes away. For the high speed it is critical that you don't lean it out too far. Hold the throttle at wide open and turn the screw counterclockwise until it appears to run really rich. (Blurbs like a four stroke). Then turn the screw back in while holding WOT (wide open throttle) until you get a smooth sound with a bit of blurb every couple of seconds. Hard to explain in type rather than showing it in person, but it will get you in the right direction. I'm wondering why you are trying to adjust the carb in the first place...... If there is an issue that makes you think an adjustment will fix it, try the method above. If the adjustments don't work, or you have to adjust them A LOT, you may be in the realm of a carburetor rebuild. Be sure to check the fuel line, fuel filter, and depending on what model saw you have, the carburetor boot for splits or cracks.

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1 Answer

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Hi Alex Sachs
Before you remove or try to adjust your low and high speed jets you should always count the number of turns it takes to lightly seat the idle mixture screw and high speed needle adjusting screws.
Be sure to write the number of turns down on a piece of paper so you will know how many turns from the seated position to open the jets when you go to reinstall them, or if you remove them for cleaning or replacement.
If you have aready tried to adjust them then the adjustments below should get it running for you for final adjustment when warm.
Normally you will adjust your idle jet to 1/2-3/4 turn open from the bottom seated position.
Then you will re-adjust the low speed of the engine when the engine is warm by turning the idle screw in or out till the engine runs smoothly at idle speed, around 1200 RPM.
The high speed jet is adjusted to 1 1/2- 1 3/4 open from the bottom seated position, after the engine is warm.
Then re-adjusted by turning the High Speed jet adjustment screw in or out till the motor runs smoothly at high speed.
Alway use the "lightly seated" method if you have not changed the screw settings.

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1 Answer

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This is fuel starvation, clean/replace the fuel filter in the tank, check the fuel hoses for signs of cracks or fuel leakage, if this fails it may well be dirt in the carb itself, remove the carb, and clean /replace the fuel screen located under the carb pump cover

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1 Answer

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Only Info I see is "Homelite Chain Saws" - not much to go on.
Most saws have two carb adjustment screws, Hi, and Lo.
Assuming the saw will start and run enough to warm up, then
adjust the Lo screw in, clockwise, until the motor starts to slow down,
turn only about 1/8 turn at a time. From the point where it starts to slow down, turn it out about 1/4 turn. This should give you a decent idle. Now pull the throttle, and see what happens.
A - Saw runs up to speed, but dies off, or starts to slow on it's own.
turn Hi idle screw out about 1/4 turn.
B - Saw speeds up, but runs sluggish, fat - not real hi end.
Turn Hi screw IN, about 1/8 or so, and try again, or adjust
while running at full throttle. (best way)
IF it won't run well, try turning both screws all the way in to seat them, then come back out about 1-1/2 to 2 turns. this should get you in the ballpark to set things up as above.

Once the saw is running well, adjust the idle screw to a smooth idle but slow enough that the chain stops moving.

Stay safe

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Sometimes what can happen is the springs in the clutch break. This causes the clutch shoes to fly out at low speed and can stall the engine.
If the engine dies suddenly, it could be the electrical system, possibly the plug, breaking down with the heat.
If the engine splutters and then stops it could be fuel starvation. This would be caused by a faulty diaphragm or blocked jets in the carburettor. Check the vent valve on the tank also. This is a check valve which lets air into the tank as the fuel leaves the tank.

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