Question about Honeywell Electronic Programmable Heat/Cool Thermostat - CT3300A100 Heater

1 Answer

Inducer and ibm turns on and stays on no heat or cooling

It is a honeywell furn the fans run nonstop no matter what the stat says. its a spark ignitor not getting a spark gas valve does not click on so its not getting any gas. the fan runs off the heating terminal on the board. even when in cooling mode the heat term is running 125 v and cooling term for fan has nothing. i shut if off form the kill switch let it reset for two min and nothing dif. im guessing the bord is shot or could it just be the fan relay? if you need anymore info plz let me know.

Posted by on

  • tycoon7885 Nov 18, 2008

    i also forgot i jumped out the R and W terminal on the board to heat up the house and nothing happened no ignition or spark fans continued to run and didnt turn off. the stat is new and wires are all hooked up form the stat to the board correct.

  • tycoon7885 Nov 18, 2008

    yes the problem was there before the new Tstat and there is 25 volts between the R and C and the W and C sorry i forgot to say that. i will kill the power to the furnace itself to see if that resets the fan and post what happens just so other people know that might read this.

×

1 Answer

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Corporal:

    An expert that hasĀ over 10 points.

    Mayor:

    An expert whose answer gotĀ voted for 2 times.

    Problem Solver:

    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

  • Contributor
  • 17 Answers

Check to make sure you have 24-28 volts between R and C. If you do, you probably have a bad board but you also need to verify that you have the same voltage between W and C on a heat call if not then it could be something in the tstat ot he wires (jumping R and W pretty much rules this out).
The Kill switch may not reset the board, kill the power to the furnace itself.
Was the problem there before the new tstat was installed?
Also on some models continuous blower is initiated by a "kicked" roll out switch or and overtemp condition, Check for continuity on the whole safety circuit.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

How do I make my honeywell thermostat turn off right away at desired temperature. it runs for about a minute after letting cold air in.


Hi, what causes the stat to continue to run is the heat anticipator setting in the stat. If you have gas heating, it could also be the setting on the fan limit switch. If it is shutting off, and takes about a minute this is pretty much the norm. Once its satisfied, the heat exchanger has to cool down and there is a time delay when this happens. Yes, the air will be cool, but just for a minute. You may have to set your stat a little higher to compensate for this delay. Yes, the fan will run after burner shuts down and it will then cycle down. If it runs and never shuts off, then I would say you have a real problem with the fan limit or relay. Try what I asked. There is not much you can do. The anticipator is a setting in the stat that is set at the factory. Its about 0.4. If you have your stat manual, it will tell you how to check it. Good luck,
Shastalaker7
A/C & Heating contractor

Mar 19, 2012 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

Tip

Heater check out list for heater failures


Almost all furnaces built after 1978 have intermittant type pilots.
Ca banned them requiring electronic spark or hot surface ignitors, followed by induced draft motors, pressure switches or centrifigal switches that "prove" a induced draft exists, allowing the pilot sequence to commence.
electronic spark type units have a high voltage low amperage spark that is AC. Fire rectifies electricity that passes through it meaning AC becomes DC ! Fire is a terrible conducter however as a result , the DC signal is only milliamps/volts signal strength. the DC prescence is proof a flame exists for pilot, and safe to commence to mainburners.

As long as pressure switches stay closed, safeties and limits stay closed
and the DC signal to the ignition module is not broken, the furnace will run.

The normal sequence of operation is upon a call for heat from the thermostat a 24 volt signal is sent to W white (heat circuit) at the low voltage terminal board on furnace.
from there depending on unit and age the heat circuit may include a circuit board, but it still has the typical limits and safetys reqired for operation
its just not using electromechanical relays to control fan and induced draft motor etc.

for the induced draft to begin ,all limits, safetys in heat circuit must be closed.

induced draft begins and a proving switch, either pressure or centrifigal close allowung the pilot to begin, a spark or hot surface ignitor is energized and a pilot flame established,modern types use flame rectification to prove a flame, older Carrier, Payne,types have a 3 wire switch in the piloyt assembly that is a bi metal that expands and contracts clicking open and shut, allowing pilot or main burners, depending if cold or hot.

pressure switches are attached with tubing to the induced draft wheel housing and sense pressure differential and close upon induced draft running, the orifices that the tube attaches to on induced draft housing often plugs or is restricted causing pressure switch to fail to close, or waver on open and close , open , close, .

if you can run the fan in the on postion , you have both high and low voltage to the furnace.

if you dont have fan control check power, breaker , fuses.

on Dec 04, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My heater isn't blowing any heat. I hear the fan come in, and i think i hear the gas come on, but nothing comes out of the vents. The fan only comes on for a couple of minutes and then goes off.


Ok so here is a sequence of the heater lighting and the solution for your problem...
1. Thermostat calls for heat. 2. Draft inducer motor starts. 3. Pressure switch attached by a small plastic or rubber tube senses the negative pressure produced by the draft inducer and closes. 4. Draft inducer runs for 30 seconds to a minute before you hear a gas hissing sound. The ignitor did not glow, the flame sensor (a small metal probe about 1/8" in diameter, with a white porcelain base) does not sense the flame, so after 8 to 10 seconds the hissing sounds stops with no ignition of gas to heat your home. Your furnace shuts down and goes into a lock out condition until you turn your power switch back off and on again. Then the sequence starts all over again with no ignition of the gas. Solution:You probably need to purchase and install a new ignitor. I would suggest that you inspect your ignitor closely for cracks.Make sure you do not touch the ignitor with your bare hands. If you do not visually see a crack, then you could have a furnace control board problem or a limit, rollout switch problem. Please see "limits, rollout switches & furnace control boards" further down on this page. The furnace's control board might not be supplying the voltage to the ignitor. If your furnace lights and the gas stays on for 8 to 10 seconds, then shuts right back off, then you need to clean your flame sensor with light sand paper or steel wool. You might need a new flame sensor, but most of the time they can be cleaned an will work well after cleaning. Please see the pictures below to help you identify a flame sensor.
Thanks and I hope this helps. Feedback apprec.

Jan 28, 2011 | Honeywell Electronic Programmable...

2 Answers

I have a Arcoaire Gas Furnace (Model# GNJ100N12A1), that will not fire up. It has a White Rogers Digital Stat. First the Stat seems to be faulty, since it reads 70plus in a house that has a temp of 30...


Sounds like a faulty board. shut the power to the furnace off for a minute then turn it back on. Make a call for heat at the thermostat. The inducer should start and close contacts on a pressure switch . Once pressure switch closes the hot surface ignitor should glow red. Then the gas valve will open when the gas valve opens you should get fire till the stat is satisfied. If your concerned it is the jump out r to w on the board this will eliminate the stat. If you to reset the rollout switchs 3 timesyou're getting flame rollout and you either have a cracked heat exchanger or blockage in the exhaust piping or a bad inducer motor. Keep me posted with what you find!

Dec 15, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Old (20+ yrs.) Bryant-Carrier 397HAW060140 Furnace Fan Stays On


Its a bad high limit temp switch or sensor in the furnace that is out. The sensor is telling the board that the heat ex-changer is not cool enough to turn of the fan. www.fastacservice.com

Oct 17, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Bryant-Carrier Furnace Fan Stays On


Its the Relay on the circuit board trust me...is it a 58SX????.....very common...

Oct 17, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Bryant-Carrier Furnace Fan Stays On


I suspect a bad fan relay or bad fan control. Maybe the longer the control or relay is in the on position the more chance of it sticking on.

Oct 17, 2009 | Bryant 462AJC021BA Air Conditioner

1 Answer

1970's Rheem electric furnace


no the older rheems had a sequencer for the heat that turned on the blower at the same time that the heat strios are energized. so the first thing that you need to do is figure out the sequencer that is keeping the fan running and get it replaced.

Jan 30, 2009 | Honeywell CT3200 5-2 Day Electronic...

1 Answer

MY BLOWER WAS REPLACED IN THE SUMMER BUT IT NEVER TURNED OFF UNLESS WE SHUT IT OFF AT THE SWITCH. NOW I SWITCHED THE TSTAT TO HEAT AND THE INDUCER FAN TURNS ON WITH THE BLOWER BUT NOTHING EKSE TURNS ON. NO...


be sure the fan setting on the stat is set for auto, not on. in this mode the fan should only run when there is a call for cool or heat.if the fan continues to run check at the control board to see if you are getting 24 volts low voltage between green and common. if you are then the stat is bad. if youaren't then your electric control board is possibly bad. a lot of gas furnaces fall into a failsafe mode when a sensor or function fails and the blowers stay on 24 7. you may well have several problems from what you are saying. if you turn everthing off and start a new cycle for heat the first thing that should fire up is the induced draft motor , then the ignotor, then the gas valve. you can check each item with a meter , generally 120 volts to the induced draft motor, then 120 volts to the ignitior, the 24 volts to the gas valve. then ignition and 120 volts to the motor. most furnaces have a heat terminal and a cool terminal on the board. common to heat should get 120 volts on a call for heat after the sequence of operationb has taken place. 120 volts should be sent to cool terminal on a call for cool. a continueous blower is a sign of a failed safety. perhaps the motor failed and the safety opened and the motor was replaced but the safety never reset?. look at all the little micro temp sensors around the burner. they are like little breakers and need to be pushed in to reset . usually like a little stem that pops out from a metal or plastic dic. some are size of a quarter, some the size of a dime.

Oct 29, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Janitrol/Goodman GMP075-3 Draft Inducer Fan Won't come on


most forced draft fans are powered by 120 volts . close to the fan is usually a plug that unsnaps. create a call for heat after turning off to clear safetys and see if your getting 120 to fan on initial call for heat. if you are then fan draft motor is bad, usually sold as an entire assembly replace exact as it came out. sequence of operation is..... stat calls for heat via common and white wire to furnace , 24 volts. ......board sences call and sends 120 volts to forced draft ........ motor runs and creates pressure on proofing switch,....... switch closes 24 to board and tells it draft fan is on......... board then energizes ignitor,....... after ignitior glows gas valve is opened and burner lights ........ either ignitor or seperate sensor rod tells board the burner lit........ and a few minutes later the fan comes on and hot air is blown out. if a step is missed or doesn't proof the furnace either trys up to three times to light or locks out. turning off power usually resets safetys and it will resume attempts to lite normally.

Oct 25, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

Not finding what you are looking for?
Heating & Cooling Logo

91 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Honeywell Heating & Cooling Experts

Bill Long

Level 3 Expert

587 Answers

paulcarew

Level 3 Expert

2364 Answers

Brandon Berry
Brandon Berry

Level 2 Expert

407 Answers

Are you a Honeywell Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...