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Top load whirpool washer does not spin

I've replaced the motor coupler. How can I tell if the clutch or transmission is bad?

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  • collinsmc Nov 18, 2008

    Thank you very much duby1990. Now that I've been able to pin point the problem I'd like to know if there is an on line diagram I can follow to actually replace the clutch? This is my first attempt an wash machine repair. Detailed info would be a great help.

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If it spins with no clothes in it you have a bad clutch. If it makes a huge racket with no clothes, its a transmission. It is most likely your spin clutch.

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

  • Justin Duby
    Justin Duby Nov 18, 2008

    IF the washer spins fine with no clothes in the tub, Then your clutch is bad. also check the lid switch. As long as it pumps the water the lid switch is ok though.

  • Justin Duby
    Justin Duby Nov 18, 2008

    You have to take the motor and pump off. Then there is three bolts holding on the transmission. Before you take those out you have to pop the top off your agitator and find the 7/16 bolt down in it. Take that out then remove the agitator. Then you now take out the transmission. Then you will see the clutch on the Tranny shaft. The instruction with the clutch should take it from here. (you dont have to replace the white piece they give you. Just the metal disc. (make sure the spring on the clutch is on the opposite side of the point sticking out on the white piece) Sounds confusing but when you do it just follow the directions and you will get it.

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Ge frontload washer seems like it is not aggitating... what would be the problem???


Hello there:

The first thing to check when your GE washer is not agitating, is the belt. Let me tell you how to check the belt & the clutch with out having to take the washer apart.




The belt: Set the timer in the spin cycle and pull the timer knob to turn the washer on.
If the washer drains the water and then spins the way that it should, this tells you that the motor, belt & clutch are not the reason why your washer won't agitate.
A broken belt could be the reason your washer is not agitating or spinning.



The agitator: After making sure that the belt, motor & clutch are working ok, lets check the agitator.
The agitator uses a plastic agitator coupler that is couple to the transmission shaft by using splines cut in the coupler and on the transmission shaft.
Too much usage or overloading the washer too many times will wear the agitator coupler splines. With out the splines the coupler could not be coupled to the transmission shaft and that could be the cause why your washer is not agitating.




The clutch: A bad clutch could also be the reason the washer won't agitate or spin. Usually when the clutch is bad the washer will be noisy, like when you have bad brakes on your car.


The transmission: The transmission could be the reason your washer is not agitating. A common problem with the transmission is oil leaking right on top of the motor pulley and the belt.
As you can see, there could be different reasons why your GE washer is not agitating. You just need to keep checking each part until you find the problem and replace the part responsible.

Oct 03, 2010 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My washer makes sreaming noises when in the spin cycle what could be wrong.


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

THREE POSSIBILITIES. TWO EASY, ONE A BIT MESSY BUT DOABLE.


Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

2. It may be the clutch bands have worn.

See the following for how to remove the pump, motor and transmission. The clutch is on top of the transmission. Sears has replacement clutch bands.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the drive tube and brake to change clutch bands.

3. If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch, it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft (About $15.00).

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($15 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.


Apr 27, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore Top Load Washer. Original issue was it


If the machine goes dead when it gets to the spin cycle it's the lid switch. If the the clothes are still wet after the spin it's the clutch. If the washer hums but does not spin it's either the coupler or the motor. Click HERE for a service manual. Give it a few minutes to download since it is a large pdf. Mike

Mar 25, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore washer 110 makes grinding noice only at first of spin cycle. is it the clutch?


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

In order of difficulty, there are three possibilities.

1. It's possible that the Motor Coupler is worn / broken.

This is a three part plastic and rubber device that transmits power from the motor to the transmission. If it's worn and slipping you may hear the plastic pieces grinding against each other.

It's an easy repair.

See the following:

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135&osCsid=2e8e02b3755ab86d8e046bc88e9db27b

If the Coupler is worn, it's an easy and inexpensive fix.

2. It may be the clutch bands have worn.

See the following for how to remove the pump, motor and transmission. The clutch is on top of the transmission. Sears has replacement clutch bands.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

You don't have to remove the drive tube and brake to change clutch bands.

If it isn't the motor coupler or clutch, it could be the "agitate cams" in the transmission.

These are plastic pieces that move the agitator drive shaft up about 1/4" when the washer goes into the spin cycle. If they are worn, you may hear a grinding noise.

Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

See also a more detailed description from Whirlpool of how their transmissions work.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

Remove the cabinet, pump, motor and transmission. YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=1051095663c7f2d5997fa53b976529d6

I had the same problem with major gear grinding during the spin cycle and this solved it.

The agitator cam and follower use the same whirlpool part number 62580/01. This is a plastic set used to raise the agitate gear on the shaft.

Pull the transmission.

Remove the clutch (the spring holding the clutch to the spin pinion is a bear to replace.

Remove the 8 transmission screws carefully, the transmission is full (15 oz.) of 80-90 weight gear oil.

Remove the transmission cover.

Pull off the spin pinion.

Push down on the agitate spring and remove the spring clip. Note where is attaches to the main shaft.

The two plastic agitate cam parts pull right off. Don't lose the washer on top of the cams.

Replace the cams, washer, spring and clip, pinion, oil (assuming you drained the oil first), cover and clutch parts.

Line up the transmission so that the release cam on the brake drum will snap onto the clutch spring retaining clip and put all parts back in the washer.

The basic tools are screwdriver, small socket set with up to a 1/2" socket, vice grips or good pliers (to remove and replace clips)

Be sure to align the holes on the Motor Coupler correctly or the motor and transmission won't fit together correctly.

Following is also the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial top load direct drive washers that has a better description of the cams and the Whirlpool part numbers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf

It is a bit of a messy job but much ($10 vs $170 for a transmission) less than having a service person replace the transmission.

Be sure to study the Service manual so that you can see exactly how the cams work.Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load direct drive washers.


Mar 12, 2010 | Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Washer will fill and spin but will not agitate ge top load washer wwsr3130w0ww


It doesn't agitate If your washer doesn't agitate, check these: Lid switch Motor coupler Belts Clutch Drive motor Drive pulleys Transmission Agitator Lid switch If the lid switch is defective, the washing machine may not agitate or function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. Motor coupler Many washers produced by Whirlpool® use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. If this happens, you need to completely replace it. Belts Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Clutch If your washer was made by GE®, it may use a clutch for agitating the clothes. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the washer from agitating well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician. Drive motor Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor. Drive pulleys The motor or transmission drive pulley may be worn and unable to turn the drive belt. If so, replace the pulley.

Jan 02, 2010 | GE WBSR3140DW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 20882 Top Load Washer Not Spinning


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the Motor coupler is intact, the next place to check is the Clutch on top of the transmission.

See the following for how to remove the transmission.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the clutch is worn, or the springs are broken, it cannot transmit power to the spin tube.

If the Motor coupler and Clutch are OK, the problem points to the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission.

See the following Whirlpool Service manual on top load, direct drive washers to get an understanding of how the assembly works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Replacing the neutral assembly is a somewhat messy job (14 oz. of 80-90 weight oil) but at $15, a lot less expensive than a $170 transmission.

Also see the Whirlpool Parts list for top load direct drive washers with clutch and neutral drain assembly's listed.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf


Nov 24, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

WHIRPOOL WASHER LSQ9564MQ0 Started making loud


judging by the description i would say more likely the coupler
its a three peice part that sits between the mototr and transmission, kinda like a clutch,
anyway it is easily repaired
and available on appliancepartspro.com
type in your model number.....
look for motor coupler

Oct 13, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Roper RAX4232KQ0 maker loud noise at spin cycle and then stops


There are a few things that can go wrong, If the washer doesn't adgitate or spin then probably the coupler is broken, lean the washer back and look under the machine between the motor and transmission you will find the coupler. (very common)

Coupler Part# 285753A $22.95

If its agitating but not spinning, check the lid switch, (easy check just listen for the click when you shut the lid, Or you can bypass it with a jumper wire under the console there are only 2 screw that hold the console down they are philips and either located in the front lower corners or the back lower corners)

Lid switch Part# 3949247 $42.95

If lid switch is good and the motor still doesnt run you might have a bad timer (RARE)
Timer Part# 3954563 $95.95

If you can hear the motor running but its not spinning and you have rulled out the coupler then your probably looking at a clutch (common problem) either the clutch isnt grabbing or the brake isnt releasing both problems solved with the clutch kit

Clutch kit Part# 285785 $44.95

Worst case your looking at a transmission, (uncommon) to rule out, make sure its agitating, then put washer in spin cycle. look under the washer to see if the clutch bell is spinning. if its not then you will need a transmission.

Trans Part# 3360629 $172.95

if its making loud noises when it stops spinnig then the block is bad.

Block Part# 389140 $14.95

Feb 07, 2009 | Roper RAX4232KQ Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 80 series won't spin


If it is draining then the motor is turning the pump so it is ok.
This washer has no belt so that is not the problem.
Remove the cabinet and bypass the lid switch wires and put into a spin. Watch the clutch to see if it is turning. If the clutch housing is not turning and you know for sure the coupler is not broken then you need a new transmission. If the clutch housing is turning but the basket is not spinning you have something binding the basket or you need a new basket drive and clutch.
If you have only looked at the coupler from underneath you may not be able to tell if it is broken in the center. If it is broken again your transmission is not staying in neutral drain until the water is drained. That means it is going into spin with full load of clothes and water. This puts a lot of pressure on the coupler and causes them to fail prematurely. If this is the case you will need a new transmission.
Post back if you have any questions.

Nov 05, 2007 | GE WSM2700D Top Load Stacked Washer /...

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