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Hobbylock 796 serger upper blade cutting position

The manual states that the front edge of the upper blade should be .5mm below needle plate but my blade will not drop down that far. I am thinking I have an incorrect blade, therefore, it will not cut properly. Instead it rolls the material under the plate.

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5 Suggested Answers

SewExpress
  • 41 Answers

SOURCE: hobbylock 796 serger Does not turn.

Good morning,

Could be a couple of things - either machine is just "gummed up" (can happen if it's been awhile since machine was serviced - more than a year), an internal part has broken or come loose or the machine has somehow been knocked out of time. As these are not things that you'll be able to fix yourself, you'll need to have your machine checked out by a qualified service tech.

Best of luck,
Kim & Linnette
www.sewingexpressions.com

Posted on Jul 16, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Need replacement cutting blades on my simplicity serger easy lock 804

Allbrand.com or go to Google, type in: "Replacement blades for a serger". Hope this will help. I have the same serger. --Tricie

Posted on Mar 29, 2008

SOURCE: cutting knife adjustment

Hi,
I have found this info...it mentions both threading and changing the knife width. I hope it is useful.
http://www.singerco.com/pdf/14SH654_threading.pdf

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

  • 323 Answers

SOURCE: White Superlock Serger 1934D

Either adjust your knife to cut wider or tighten both looper threads.
sewman7

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

bargainbox
  • 1388 Answers

SOURCE: Janome Needle plate and needles hitting something underneath

The broken pins are called chaining pins and are tricky for the home user to replace without risking damage to the needle plate as they are difficult to remove and the tiny burr used to hold them firm can easily open up and no longer grip the pin.
There are only a couple of things under the needleplate that are likely to collide with the needles. 1. Lower looper - with the needles 2. Both Loopers colliding with each other - not with the needles 3. Needle guards attached to lower looper - with the needles 4. Fixed Needle guard - with the needles
If you remove the needleplate and VERY gently turn the handwheel you should be able to see and feel where the collision is occuring and have a better idea of the issue.
I would strongly advise that you do not try to operate the machine until you are sure that the colliding components are adjusted. Broken loopers are approx $65 AUD and guards, tho' only about $20 AUD require some finesse in adjustment. Chain Pins approx $6 AUD
My recommendation is to speak with your local Janome dealer for advice and an approximate price to repair, replace or adjust as the case may be.
Your country's Janome website is certain to have a Dealer Locator page to list the nearest to you.
This is one occasion where it is sensible to call on the people who do these things routinely rather than try to DIY and make a more expensive hash of it.
www.bargainbox.com.au

Posted on Nov 22, 2008

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1 Answer

How do I adjust tension on a Janome Harmony 9102D


Sounds like you want to do a rolled hem for a handkerchief edge, I do the following to create a rolled hem on my over locker. Take out left needle and cut and remove that thread. Open front cover and slide back lever for the stitch finger in the needle plate, this finger stops the fabric rolling under thread tension normally so you need to pull it back out of engagement. Your Janome may have a similar means to select the rolled hem or you may need to remove the stitch finger with a screwdriver, it varies between models.

Thread upper looper with wooly nylon and right needle and lower looper in matching colour thread. (You can go wooly on the bottom looper but it hardly shows so I never bother.) Disengage upper blade and move the fixed lower blade to the right to trim less, then lower upper blade back into position. Now tension, needle leave alone (5)' upper looper very loose (2-3) and lower looper tighten up to 6-7 and test stitch. You want the upper looper thread to go right underneath and the lower looper thread to disappear against the needle stitch. And the fabric to roll inside the stitching. Finesse tensions on the loopers until this is right, you may need to change blade position too, depends on weight of the fabric and how it rolls. Once this is right turn stitch length down to close up stitching, 0.8 or even 0.5 if you want full coverage. Thats it. You can use differential feed if you want a fluted rolled edge, nice on knits.

Mar 02, 2015 | Janome Harmony 9102D Mechanical Sewing...

1 Answer

Serger is not stitching


... not quite sure what you mean by "not stitching", here are a few things to check. If the problem is more specific, please leave me a note with more details.
Let's start right from the beginning (for 4-thread overlock/serge):
1. According to the serger manual, ensure that the proper needles are being used. That they are inserted all the way up into their positions and that the flat side of the needle is facing away from you. The left needle will appear to be shorter that the right, that is OK, all is going perfectly.
2. Use four good quality spool of serger thread (good quality sewing thread is fine also) and place them on the spool or cone holders. There should be "little bucket looking things" that fit onto the cone pins to make the cones sit nice and straight, use them. Rattling thread will cause grief.
3. The first thread to be loaded onto the serger is the Upper Looper ...it is the big needle looking thing that swings left to right and back again above the sewing surface. Follow all the threading guided according to your manual, the threading guides are generally coded in a colour specific for this looper. Once the eye of the Upper Looper is threaded, place the thread under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
4. Next is the Lower Looper, the big needle looking thing that swings left to right and back again under the sewing surface. It can be a bit tricky in some sergers as the thread need to pass to the left and then back to the right under the sewing surface. Your manual should have a good diagram if you can not follow the threading guides on the serger itself. Again the threading guides are generally colour coded with a different colour but specific for the Lower Looper. Once the looper is threaded, it is important that the thread is placed directly OVER the Upper Looper as it comes out of the eye of the Lower Looper. Place the thread now under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
5. Thread the right needle front to back and place the thread under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
6 Thread the left needle front to back and place the thread under the presser foot and to the left. Presser foot down.
7. Hold the four thread ends firmly in the left hand and give each thread individually a good pull down over the serger and behind, this will ensure that the threads are all engaged in the tension dials.
8. Set the tensions to the middle number, although this may vary with the brand and model of your serger. If you have the manual check for the correct settings specific to your unit.
9. Set differential to 'normal', or '0' (if your unit has one)
10. Set stitch length to about 2 1/2 to 3.
11. Make sure that the blade is in cutting position. We can trouble shoot blade position later if needed.
12. Make sure that you have the overlocking plate installed ... not the rolled hem plate (if your serger has two plates). Some sergers use the same plate for both functions.
13. Using two layers of medium weight fabric do a test stitch, what is the result? Is a chain forming? Are there stitches on the fabric? Are they looking the way they should?
Hopefully this has helped you, please let me know.
Cheers.

Sep 01, 2014 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How to replace the upper cutter on the baby lock? which screws to release the old blade?


I also have a babylock eclipse BLE1DX serger & here's how my book says to do it

to replace the upper cutting blade
1.open the front panel
2.remove the screw holding the upper blade
remove the upper blade
3.position the new blade in the blade slot, replace the screw.as you tighten the screw, hold the blade up in it's highest position
4.close blade cover. close front cover

hope this helps you
good luck

Sep 12, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

I have a Babylock 5260 serger and have changed the blades before but this time when I changed them I can't get them to align correctly. the top blade comes down and hits the bottom blade. I cant figure out...


First make sure that both blades have no burrs on the them from hitting pins. Then set the lower blade so that the cutting surface is flush with the surface of the needle plate. Then adjust the upper blade so that when it comes down to it's lowest position on the downward stroke of the cutter arm, that the cutting edge comes down past the lower blade at least 1MM. That will ensure a full cut of the blades.

Apr 26, 2011 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Blades will not cut


A few things to check here; 1. do the blades cross over each other when the upper blade is fully down - if not make sure lower blade is flush with top of needle plate and then loosen upper blade and set it so that the blades cross over for the full length of the blade when down. 2. is there any lint or thread caught between the blades - push the upper blade to the right and look between the blades and remove any material caught between them. 3. are the blades damaged - blades can become chipped from sewing over pins etc and also become dull after considerable use (replace if damaged).

Nov 04, 2009 | Brother Lay-In Thread Serger Mechanical...

1 Answer

Brother 1034D serger is not cutting and is binding up


This problem is usually when the lower blade drops below the sewing plate. Look at the blade in relation to the plate and see if it has dropped below the plate, then you can reset the blade. If it is not the upper blade may be too dull to cut so it will need to be replaced.

Jul 03, 2009 | Brother 1034D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

How do you get the blades to cut on a hobbylock 794 serger


It should just cut. Don't know too much about this machine as I'm new owner, but from what I can gather, either you need a new blade, or the upper knife is disengaged. The metal knob inside the threading area should be turned downwards, engaging the upper knife. The upper knife doesn't usually need replacing unless damaged, apparently. Hope this helps somewhat.

Dec 04, 2008 | PfaFF Hobby 4260

1 Answer

I have a juki mo-3614 serger and I can't seem to get the blades lined up right for cutting. It just seems to want to roll the fabric instead of cut it. How do I line up the blades the right way.


first, pull out the bvlades and make surte they are sharp. It could simply be that they are dull. Next, line tyhe bottom blade up level to the surface of the needle plate. The top blade should be adjusted to where it slices against the botom blade. You may have to experiment with the height adjustment on the top blade, assuming you have a suitable cutting edge.

Nov 29, 2008 | Juki MO-644D Mechanical Sewing Machine

1 Answer

Instructions for threading Baby lock eclipse BLE1LX for 2 thread sergering


I have just learned this :)
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread serging.
1. Open the front cover and cutting blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading guide ( this is plate that has two holes for the threads) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove upper thread from the machine (or you can leave the cone thread on, it doesn't matter).
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion's tale. If you can't figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you'll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left - it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)
4. Close the covers. Decrease the needel tension - this depends on what the stitch length is. Stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 3.0 = L needle n/a, R needle 1; upper looper n/a, lower looper 5
stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 5.0 = L needle 0, R needle n/a, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5

Those are for a flatlock stitch - for a 2-thread rolled edge :
Stitch length: 0.5, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4.5, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5
Stitch lenght: 1.0, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4, upper lopper n/a, lower looper 3.0

If you have any questions, e-mail me at knowgodnofear@bex.net

Aug 10, 2008 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

2 Answers

Rolled hem or rolled edge


You need to disengage the cutting blade by openingfirstly opening the front and left hand side covers. pull on the larger of the two silver knobs and slide the red lever towards you. I'm not sure what the tension settings are, but I'm certain you need to reduce them a fair bit to aid in the rolling effect. I only use 3 threads when doing a rolled hem.
My description isn't too detailed but I hope it helps!

Jun 11, 2008 | Janome MyLock 634D Mechanical Sewing...

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