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Re: Skybox won't cool enough.
You might need the compressor checked for freon level
when the compressor stops cooling entirely - the products will stay room temp.. when this happens -- the relay overload switch is the problem -- most sites tell you to change the capacitor and transformer -- this is expensive and not the problem -- its like changing the starter and alternator on a car -- before checking for a bad battery
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Sounds like temperature or maybe a faulty battery. Are you using the laptop on a hard flat surface? Need to in order for the system fan to keep everything cool. Also , are the vents free of dust and debris?
your home may not be insulated well enough or you could have leaking duct or your system may not be charged correctly ac systems are not sized to cool below 76 degrees above 90 degrees outdoors because this will increase your utility bills during the cooler temperatures. thank your governement and all the regulations we have to follow for this. they would rather you save money than be comfortable. and we are actually in violation of state law and federal law if we install a unit that will cool below 76 degrees on 90 degree outdoor temp
I would unplug it and leave it set level. When you tilt it some of the oil in the compressor can get up into the upper pare. in some cases if the motor can't move it will either burn up or burn out the starting capacitor or coil. Plug it in again the next day and see what happens. Small freezers may take a long time to cool down and they need something in them to cool. Put pans of water or something in it and see if it will get cold enough to freeze them
As to your question 'will 75 cool the house?' The answer is 'yes' - if the outside temperature is low enough. Typically speaking you can expect your central AC to cool a properly insulated house to a down to a temperature of about 20-25 degrees lower than the outside temperature. For example - if the outside temp is 95 degrees. You could expect to get your house down to 70-75 degrees. If the outside temp is 110 degrees then you could only expect to get the house to 85 or 90 degrees.
So .. as you can see - your 'inside' temp will be directly affected by the 'outside' temperature.
As to the operation of central air; it is very simple.
I would suggest that you not pay 'too much attention' to what you have the thermostat set on. A comfortable temperature - is a personal thing - so - I would set it somewhere - say 72 and see how I (and others in the house) was handling that setting.
If you want it 'cooler' just 'notch' it down a degree or two - if you need it a little warmer - turn it up a degree or two. Do this "fine adjusting" till you have the temperature setting you are comfortable with.
Usually the more you can leave your thermostat alone the better off you will be from a comfort position and an electrical useage standpoint. Obviously, the higher you have your thermostat set the 'less' it will cost you on your electric bill.
How high you set the temperature is a balance you have to come to based on how comfortable you want to be - matched with how much you want to hold down the electric bill.
What is the model number of the thermostat? What may be happening is the humidity control is trying to satisfy the humidity setting by running the a/c. In the installers set-up, there should be a setting to determine how long the system should run to satisfy humidity setting. I typically set thermostats for a 3 degree droop. Meaning it'll only drop 3 degrees below set temp. Also check your humidity setting to be sure it's not set too low. It should be set between 45% and 50%.
Good day, 35 minutes would be considered nominal. That is the amount of time needed to heat up the cooling coils behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, and then allow it to drain the condensate water out the drain.
The defrost cycle is made up of 2 parts. The first part involves shutting all fans and compressor off, and turning on the heater/heaters mounted on the bottom of the cooling coil to above freezing. About 10 to 15 minutes.
The second half occures when a defrost thermostat mounted on the top of that coil senses the coil is above freezing. It cuts the power to the heaters, and lets the system just idle, while the water is allowed to drain out of the drain.
If that tstat is working properly, the food temperature is affected slightly but never to an above freezing condition. The thermostat is a small 1" round disk clipped to the top of the coil.
Only one possibility, but that tstat could be hanging allowing the freezer coil compartment to reach a very high temperature. If so, it needs replaced.
You should also check to see if both fans and compressor start running as soon as the cycle is done.
With that model that is a sign that defrost is not happening on time or the beginning of the problem. Temperatures in fresh food compartment above 38 are not safe. Look into the back of the freezer compartment and let me know if you see a frost line buildup. If yes it would be a good idea to manually defrost the freezer so you can remove the rear panel and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. It's also important that with this model that the problem be resolved quickly. I can help you if you want. The defrost heater will be easy to see if burned out because it has a glass tube around the heating element. If you replace the defrost heater you should also change the defrost thermostat. Fan motors going bad on that refrigerator seem to always damage the control board and if the board is replaced the the fan motor should also. Let me know if you want me to help you, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Hi, It sounds like the ignitor might be getting weak and opening the gas valve conditantly. Try setting a temperature and watch to see the ignitor glow. The flame should ignite within 30-45 seconds. If the flame ignites to heat rith away, it should get up to temp before shutting down.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further with this issue.
The SkyBox was built for Maytag by a company in China. Production stoppedabout 2 1/2 years ago, and Maytag purchased ALL available service parts available at that time. As inventories are depleted, there will be no more parts available.
An issue with the SkyBox involved a build up of frost and ice on the evaporator plate built into the wall behind the dispensor assembly. This build up insulated the product from the evaporator coil. It also caused the circulation fan to stop running. Unplug the unit and leave the door open for 24 hours. Plug it back in, set the thermostat indicator at the 11:00 position and close the door. See if this brings the temps back down to the 36 to 42 degree range, I hope this helps.
The likely cause is a heavy frost and ice buildup on the internal evaporator plate behind the dispensing unit. Unplug the unit and open the door for 24 hours. Plug the unit back in, reset the thermostat to the 11:00 position.